Convoy S2+ 7135*3 vs 7135*8 Brightness

Anyone have any examples of the differences in output between 7135*3 chips at max vs the 7135*8?

My S6 has the 6 chip driver and it gets pretty warm after a few minutes on high. I’d like to avoid that, as well as get some longer run time.

The other concern I have is that in running the 7A tint, I’m also losing some lumens, so that the 3 chip driver at max would be really weak with virtually no throw.

Any thoughts?

Well, 7A with only 1000mA won’t be really bright but you’ll have enough light 90% of the time and a great autonomy…
Maybe a compromise on the tint to gain in brightness ? Or maybe 4*7135 ?

What emitter you are using would be some important information to get a valid answer…

:wink:

(edit)I assume this is a standard XM-L2 variety…

I bought one of each of the S2 (+ is not that different), gave the *3 away to a friend. As far as I’m concerned he got the better deal. If you look really really really hard, you can b…a….r….l….e……y tell the difference when they are both on with the same battery at the same charge……maybe.
It’s too floody, the extra light sort of just disappears and the charge becomes heat in your hand.
Might work well with a thrower, not so much with this light. IMO, don’t bother with the *8 unless you are an absolute power fanatic.

I’m unable to understand folks wanting fewer maximum lumens in any given, multi-output light. I almost never use turbo in my BLF A6, but it’s there when I do need it. I also almost never use moonlight, but it’s there when I need it.

Are you somehow unable to use a lower setting?

My kitchen range gets too hot for most types of cooking when switched on high, therefor, I use a lower setting most of the time. Nice to have high when I want to boil water.

Water splashes out of my glass when I open the kitchen tap all the way, fortunately, I can open it less. This is also true of your S6. Running it on medium will give you roughly the same output and efficiency as a 7135*3 on high.

I’m fine with more……when you can actually SEE more. With this light, you can’t tell the difference between max with the *3 and the *8.
Why waste battery for no discernible effect or benefit?
I almost never use high.

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Free-shipping-AMC7135-8-3-5-modes-Flashlight-circuit-board-Anti-reverse/330416_1013155720.html

size:Diameter 17mm, PCB thickness 1.7mm,components 1.6mm high
Protection:Reverse polarity protection, low voltage protection, mode memory function
input voltage: 3-4.5V
output current:2800mA
Suitable for the LED of type voltage 2.8-4V

Modes(2 groups 8 modes)
Group 1 (5-Mode): Lo (5) > Mid (40) > Hi (100%) > Strobe > SOS;
Group 2 (3-Mode): Lo (5) > Mid (40) > Hi (100%)

How to Switch the group?
switch to low mode and wait for 5 seconds. As soon as you notice a quick blink, half press the power switch and mode group is then toggled

………………………………………………

Simon has already answered your question …
(if the emitters are the same )
your 6x 7135 chip driver is running @2100ma on high and 40% of that is 840ma…
So you medium on your Convoy S6 will be a little dimmer than a 3 chip led light would be ….then factor in tint loss either way .

Lo (5) > Mid (40) > Hi (100%

I’ve always wondered why people just don’t buy a driver with more chips and snip a leg on the 7135 if they want less .
Seems it would be way easier to just resolder a snip than add a chip.

www.youtube.com/embed/F-xNMdIXJIs

Visually there isn’t much difference between high and lets say 50% That’s why Chinese vendors who make bad flashlights with cheap drivers are really pretty clueless as to how to make good mode spacing . * It takes 4 times the increase in brightness for our eyes… (brain) to perceive a doubling of power .

Hmm, any old leg? How do you actually ‘snip’ the things? They are tiny.

Tiny snippers. :stuck_out_tongue:

The middle leg is a ground pin(whose pad is often not connected to the ground plane)and since there’s also a ground tab snipping it is pointless but snipping either of the end pins would disable that chip. One end would disconnect the output and the other the signal turning it on.

Same here. With both the flashlights and the tap; though for some reason un-fathomable reason my wife still yanks the tap wide open.

Bob

If run time is essential 4 chips on high is more efficient than 8 chips at 50%. Or get yourself an LD-2 driver with the sense resistor set for 1.4A.

Just compared my 7135x6 neutral white to my 7135x8 warm white Convoy S2+ The warm white S2+ is noticeably brighter even though it should be dimmer if the same driver was used.
The bottom line is the x8 is kickass, but battery life will suffer compared to the lower output drivers

My first Convoy was a S2+ with a 7135*3 Nanjg because everyone said not to get the 7135*8 because it would overheat and I wouldn’t notice the difference. I liked it, but it never wow’d me, so I didn’t use it much.

After awhile I got bored of it so I added a Noctigon and a 7135*8. This really made me fall in love with it. To me, the difference is pretty noticeable.

Now I have few S2+ lights with either an LD-1, FET + 1, or 7135*12 Nanjg drivers with custom firmware. Yes of course they get hot…but when they do, I just use a lower level. When efficiency is needed, I use the one with the LD-1.

My S2+ (or in fact my wife’s :wink: ) had 6 chips
But she just kept on using it on high and thought it got too hot
Then I wanted to make it cuter with that 18350 tube so wanted to get longer runtimes and de soldered two chips
It still gets warmer then I like so I am going to remove one if she complains again.
Yes it is less bright but with the tir optics it is not much.

S2+ with 3x7135

S2+ with 8x7135

The water argument would be correct if you could run a flashlight at any output level mode you want at any time, just like turning the kitchen tap until it spits as much water as you'd like it to. That's not the case. If you buy S2+ with 3×7135 you have three practical modes, if you buy one with 8×7135 you have two practical modes and an overheating turbo you'll almost never have a use for.

(Some people also like a low mode of 20 lumens, not 50, but that is a preference)

Just the other side of the coin.

Or get an 8 chip qlite drive with guppydrv. Then you can really select which and how many modes you want.

I don’t think heating is to bad at the higher current.

Infact I am going to stack some 7135 make with 10 or 11 chips lol