For those of you looking for switches my store to go is Kaidomain, pleeenty of types and models and nicely priced. 
Agreed, I love KD too. Real variety of choices. If only they could place better descriptions…
Okay, the Omten 1217 is working well in the S11 with a spacer. I’ll try and give it a long run tonight on high to see if it melts!
gray S11 with reverse switch will be available soon
lighted switch or what else?
If this is of service, the Omten reverse clickies (both 1288 and 1217) were tested to handle overcurrent well: djozz's switchtesting (june13th2015: additional test by MRsDNF in post#44).
In my own PSU testing a 1288 usually has ≈4mΩ of resistance.
I myself am using 1288s at up to 10A successfully, even with boost drivers. Of course, this is all at your own risk. In my SK98 with boost driver it was a challenge to get the bypassed spring soldered the switch, you need to be pretty fast while soldering (and/or find a way to keep the switch cool) because the switch casing is made from a soft plastic which is not temperature resilient.
Under-promise, over-deliver 
sorry i was tired, yes i meant lighted switches ofc… can this be done ?
They’d look amazing with the silver button switches on the XPL HI models faint white glow.
Hi Simon, love the design of M3 and I’d love to have the tail switch version. Any plans for that?
Simon, I plan to put MT-G2 into M3. Did you happen to know what’s the reflector opening hole size? Looks quite big in pictures…
That’s not true, i have omten 1288 reverse cliekies in my lights and they may be rated for 3A but i’m pushing 12A through a few of them without issues and i can’t measure this one, but a 3v XHP50.2 L4P driver in direct drive with 20awg leads and bypassed springs and a 30Q survive as well.
I’ve only managed to kill them with dead short 30q’s
As for size, i just put a couple of layers of electrical tape in the switch boot and it works the same as the larger switches.
They may survive overcurrent but you will encounter much higher resistance and usually these start to make ugly creaky noise.
I’ve heard it. It’s annoying. I have tried applying a bit of silicone gel to the switch button to lube it a bit. Seems to help a lot. Not sure how it would affect the contact resistance if some of it flows down into the switch, but I have not experienced any problems so far.
When you press it? mine don’t seem to make any sounds other than clicking.
The only ones I have had problems with got too hot during soldering. I have some which have taken 20+ amps for short periods and still remain very clicky and responsive.
HOw do you measure the current?
At the tailcap ???With a Clamp Meter?
Close to 20 amps is where all of mine failed, dead short (reflector, no spacer) with a 30q and bypassed springs.
I think it’s quite a bit more than 20 amps when you short a 30Q
UT210E clamp meter and a thick solid piece of copper wire.