I have only dedomed some 519a lights but I want to get into modding. I’m mainly wanting to do emitter swaps but I’d like I try some builds as well.
I’ve seen a few T3 triple builds and I’d love to try building a titanium. I have a pretty good grasp on the driver, emitters, mcpcb, and optic. My question is about the spacer needed and any modificationsto the body. I’ve only seen one example that someone made out of copper washers but i don’t really know how they did it. They also mentioned “drilling the shelf” and I don’t really know what that means. Ive searched the web but i can’t find any information or tips. Do you have any ideas or tips?
Are you referring to my post about T3 triple?
What MCPCB and optic did you pick? T3 triples are probably somewhat uncommon because they are much smaller diameter than the typical 20mm MCPCB and optic. I don’t believe you can really file those down enough to work.
So AFIK you’re left with the FWAA or Wurkkos TS10 MCPCB/optic setups. The former is quite pricey for what it is, and the latter requires a donor TS10 (unless maybe you ask wurkkos if you can buy them standalone). I had a donor TS10 setup because it converted one to a single TIR.
I’m happy to explain the spacer and drilling the shelf, but first you should be sure you have the MCPCB and optic sorted out.
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I am also interested in building such a T3 triple. I want a floody optic and higher efficiency (not necessarily higher output) for daily use. I have the titanium stonewash version as EDC since some weeks.
My first thought was to salvage a TS10 but the biggest issue is to get an LED board for XP footprint which fits in there. Is it available only in the FWAA? Or is there another cheaper (chinese) branded light which can be used for using optic and LED board?
Are you sure you need xp LEDs? I think the TS10 LEDS/optic give a nice, relatively floody beam.
The TS10/T3 swap works well because a single LED TS10 needs a deeper bezel, and a triple T3 could use a shorter bezel. The threads match so it’s the perfect swap. But that swap might not work for you if you want to keep the titanium bezel on the T3.
I don’t know of anything readily available in this size MCPCB, other than the FWAA setup, for xp LEDs. I’m not sure if it’s even in stock anywhere. I think I looked a while back and couldn’t find it. I wish there were more options.
One of my next big mods is going to be a brass head that fits on a T2/T3 tube. I think it will be able to take a 20mm triple MCPCB/optic.
I want to use 519A, not these “CSP” LEDs with weird footprint. Also I can’t find any 5000 K CCT TS10 available here in Germany which is in stock, only 4000 and 6000, and I also don’t know if the light / color quality matches with the undoubtely good 519A.
And I also want to use the Ti bezel, I don’t want to put a bezel from another light on the Ti T3…
You can replace the TS10 CSP emitters with either E17A or E21A emitters. I haven’t got any E21A’s yet, but from everything I’ve seen/read they’re as nice if not nicer than 519A. I’m going to order a quad mcpcb with 4500K E21A from Hank shortly to replace the the quad 519A in my S21A.
I also considered this option.
But the NVSWE21AT according to datasheet is binned above BBL, so greenish tint could be likely, at least at CCT 5000 to 6500 K, which is applicable for both types. 4500 K seems to be ok (3-step), and 4000 and below could be perfect if bought in 3-step binning.
Is there any source where these LEDs in 4500 or 5000 K are available in guaranteed color binning on or below BBL?
The footprint of E17 and E21A are not the same. It differs in 0,4 mm in width. I assume that the E21A will fit better than the E17A.
I ordered a red TS10 mini, for around 20 euros (with coupon), so I can salvage it if there are good (in terms of tint) E21A emitters around.
When I looked I couldn’t find e17 or e21a in stock anywhere. I did find some Samsung LEDs with the right footprint and swapped those in a TS10. I used 2700k and it needed some minus green to make my eyes happy. I don’t recall if they made 5000k.
Back to the T3, it sounds like you need the FWAA MCPCB/optic.
People have bought FWAA MCPCB+optics from lumintop.
edit : https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/uzqowm/npt_got_some_more_fwaa_mcpcb_and_optics_to_make/
Unfortunately FWAA MCPCB+optics from Lumintop is getting rare and rare. Thus it might become pricey as well.
Could message the guy I linked, I doubt he used them all (15!).
Edit : also I think they were considering doing another production run.
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It’s good to know that they will likely have another production run 
I’m not on reddit, you have contacted him before?
The not available E21A is also a problem… not sure what I will do next. Of course I could use minus green (is that something like a foil which is behind the front glass?) ans the Samsung emitters but tbh I prefer Nichia much more.
I don’t think so, he has a BLF account : @Getkong
I have a bunch of E21A 4500K, they are neutral to rosy, I can slip a few in an envelope.
Edit : color measurements in there : E21A 2000K-4500K tint ramping flashlight (IF25)
This would be great. I will send you PM in the next days (I am not at home right now)
User Getkong was last seen almost two years ago so it seems he is not active here anymore, but maybe I can give it a try.
I had planned on using FWAA parts. I might even end up cannibalizing the FWAA I have because I don’t really use it much. So what does drilling the shelf entail? Also, what did you do to the mcpcbs you turned into a spacer?
Sounds like you could convert your FWAA to a single while you’re at it.
The head of the T3 has a shelf built into it, as opposed to a removable pill like on the S2+ for example. Triples typically need a center hole in the shelf to pass the wires though. You’ll need to drill the hole. Make sure it’s big enough for two wires but not much bigger than it needs to be or heat dissipation will suffer. Deburr both sides of the hole to remove sharp edges.
@INeedMoreLumens gave that handy drawing of the spacer. The T3 has a weird little lip around the shelf, which is why the spacer has a smaller diameter at the bottom.
I made my spacer out of spare MCPCBs soldered together. I used a benchtop belt sander to first get each one down to bare copper (while trying not to lose my fingernails). Don’t forget to reduce the diameter of the bottom one before soldering.
I used a heat gun to do the soldering. I placed little bits of solder between each layer and heated the whole thing at once. While the solder was molten I used pliers to squeeze it all together. It worked, barely. Alignment between the three pieces was tricky.
Hopefully the stack will end up fairly flat. Hit it with a sander or file if not. Then drill through the spacer and deburr.
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