3x21D?
Too bad it’s 6500k. Would be in at 5k. Looks like a fun one though!
I will buy one with my next order in hopes, that it’s “6500K” like the LHP531, so 6000K & low DUV
And the L8 probably. But then we need a OP reflector, I guess.
It depends. LHP73B works fine with SMO in L21A. I’d love to see smaller LHP73B in the 3x21D though.
Improved SFH55 it seems? The footprint is larger so it should handle higher current better
SQ3 has pretty craptastic tint, if the SQ5 is anything like the LHP531/73B it’ll be great
Some details about the new NV1010 LED:
10×10 mm, 3V, 16-die package, rated 1120 lm typical at 2 A, with the graph pointing to roughly 3300 lm at 6 A and around 5300 lm at 10 A.
The 2 A test point also looks pretty efficient: 1120 lm at a typical 2.88 V works out to about 5.76 W in, or roughly 194 lm/W. On paper this looks like a cool white, low CRI (Ra 70), output oriented LED with low Vf.
The datasheet says 30 A absolute max, while the Convoy listing mentions 60–80 A under good cooling ![]()
That sounds promising.
A suitable host for a 60-80A LED is probably going to be a 3x21 with a bigger head for more cooling? Ideal would be a little fan on it…
I very much hope that this LED will be available with a bit lower CCT, around 5000-5500 maybe, to still have that outstanding brightness but no blue white which I expect this to be.
There’s already 5500K option added today
So Simon is now able to read my thoughts, huh? ![]()
Edit: Interesting, the CCT Options are now 6000K and 5500K - so close together, other suppliers wouldn’t even bother to seperate them.
Would be interesting if these have different phosphors or if it’s just the binning but the same phosphor.
Nv1010 in 4500k?
Sounds like a good one to pair with a 46900 type cell.
What lights is Simon going to put that monster in? (17mm 20 amp driver)
Interesting emitter, somewhat similar to ChangDa SFP55, although the chips are different. (I don’t remember which chips are used by ChangDa, could be AoYang or something like that, definitely not Sanan.)
The font and style of this datasheet looks a little bit like the ones from Lumenpioneer, but this is pure speculation.
At 20 Amps the light flux could be around 10000 lm or even more, maybe at 30 A 13000 lm and on 60 A (the highest what I could test
) there could be 17000 lm possible. The luminance should be low at lower currents since almost the complete footprint is LES with approx 50-60 mm^2, which would equal to roughly 110-135 cd/mm^2 at 60 A and estimated 17000 lm.
To avoid confusion: these numbers are estimates. They could be higher or lower.
Phosphor is standard YAG:Ce3+, so no surprises there. What makes me wonder is the relatively low Tj of only 125 °C (most other emitters have 150 °C), which could limit the maximum performance to some extent.
Are you sure about those numbers?
I checked these for plausibility and corrected them, now they should be somewhat correct. Keep in mind, these numbers are estimates, they could be lower or higher.
After fitting a LHP531@10a on a T3 TiCu body and a LHP73b/DrJones on a T6 TiCu, of course I just got a S21G TiCu + NV1010 + FET driver combo ![]()
I’m thinking this one will need to be a mule with as much cooper possible inside the head, I’ll not risk using a TIR for this.
I’d reflow the copper insert into the head of the S21G
I just got my new T5 in with a 5000k 519A. Swapped in a 20 degree TIR and I’m having a hell time getting the beam “perfect”. There’s no centering gasket and the square base of the optic just spins around when I tighten the bezel. I tried to hold it down as I tighten it, but the beam is a bit lopsided. Anything I can do, or that’s just how it is?
EDIT: I loosened and retightened and it seems better. I do get a U shaped reflection. Maybe from the fact the opening for the TIR is U shaped?
most likely as you described, the U shaped aperture is probably causing the u shaped pattern.
as far as centering without a gasket, IF the optic sits concentric to the head, you could probably print or rig your own centering gasket/plastic shims to center the star. You could also apply some thermal paste to lightly hold the star in place.
would you happen to have some pics of inside the head?


