I’ve had an exprience.. two case of driver problem with memory toggle.. one 17mm 6v5a boost driver and recently a 20mm 3v10a buck driver..
cannot select memory on/off.. aaand…
both have NEXT memory.. 
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Speaking of drivers - I used one 17mm 10A driver and on Mode 10, it goes “Lo - Med- Hi - med - lo - med - hi” and so on. Not the spacing I wanted, and the output also looks too weak to be 10A, but that could be a mistake, because it’s essentially my first Semi-Mule light, so 10A with a reflector look much brighter, of course.
It’s in this light: NV1010 in S15 and S3 (in Convoy reviews) - what reflector to use? - #13 by L4M4
Either a driver issue or tail switch. I’ve only experienced mode issues like that with a faulty switch.
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I just popped in the 20A driver and the results are pointless for an extra 5A current.
15A:
• 4140 turn on
• 3900 30 sec
20A
• 4540 turn on
• 3950 30 sec
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Thank you very much for spending your time doing this test!
You are correct, it seems not worthing the risk.
All the best!
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Thank you for a good comparison.. i like the sft60
Cheers
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3X21C SFT-60 is available now
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Quite a nice combo.
The 3x21D could really benefit from the SFT60–almost the same output as the SBT90.2, but 25% less power/heat and likely over 1Mcd of intensity.
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I’m using this emitter with a 17mm 20A buck on a short S7 but petty sure the M11 cell is sagging too much for it get up to 20A
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Does anyone know if the issues with the 3X21C have been resolved? Did Simon upgrade the mcpcb so wires don’t desolder anymore? I would really like to get one with the new sft60 led.
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Yes, this AA headlamp is currently in production.
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Deep red light-emitting diodes do not have a color temperature parameter. Their dominant wavelength is 660 nanometers.
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This may be incompatible with the charging protocols of some chargers. Currently, the head of the H4 flashlight uses a thicker silicone O-ring.
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hi ,it’s BUCK
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Hi guys,
I have a S2+ LHP531 on the way but I am thinking about modding it with an LHP73B for the higher efficiency and lower Vf, and maybe with the 17mm 20A driver.
I have a few potential issues I’m considering:
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The stock reflector hole is too small for the emitter+gasket, and I want to avoid enlarging the reflector hole. However, the actual LES is almost exactly the same size as the stock reflector hole, so I am wondering if I can just shave down the top of the bigger 7070 gasket slightly, and sit the base of the reflector on top of the gasket (instead of fitting the gasket through the reflector hole). Can I do this safely without putting too much pressure on the emitter or risking shorts?
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I will mostly use it with a Vapcell M11 V2 which obviously won’t be able to supply anywhere near the required ~20A. Will it actually be noticeably brighter than the 10A driver (I’m hoping the lower Vf of the LHP73B will help a bit)?
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Does the stock 10A config of the S2+ come with a double spring tailcap or spring bypass? Or do I need to do that myself?
I only plan to use this light in bursts of under 5 seconds.
You are right, the LES fits into the original reflector hole:
But, of course, it sits on top of the LED, which isn’t a big problem for a light with a pill, but if I remember correctly, the S2+ has an inbuilt shelf and the normal S2 has a pill? Or was it the other way around?
Also, because of that, there could be centering problems.
But, nobody is stopping you from trying! I wouldn’t put in a 20A driver since it’s pointless with a 18350 cell. You wouldn’t see any difference between high and turbo and hardly any difference between med and high
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S2 and S2+ have a pill, S3 has a shelf.
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It comes with a Phosphor Bronze Spring that doesn’t need bypass for 10A.
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Hello. Here is the assessment:
- If the bottom of the reflector has not been reamed, it is not recommended to force-press it into place: You may make small adjustments to the reflector’s bottom, but be sure the LED remains centered with no risk of short-circuit. If the reflector cup’s bottom is pressed directly onto the LED, problems are very likely to occur.
- The M11 V2 version cannot provide a 20A output, so the flashlight may enter low-voltage warning mode prematurely.
- The S2+ 10A version usually is not configured with a dual-spring tail cap or a spring bypass: However, the original spring can handle 10A of current, so there is no need to change it.
- Turns on within 5 seconds: No major issue, but it’s only acceptable if the cooling conditions meet the requirements—avoid continuous high-frequency use.
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