Hello,I’d like 3 of each,XML and XPG.$18,70 sent 5 mins ago.Cheers,Tom(Billy X)
That’s correct, they come in 15 per pannel unless vin ordered a odd ball number
I’m waiting on 16mm boards from sinkpad (when they make them) and ill be ordering tons of LEDs and reflow them to sell if anyone would be interested
DCB,
Yes, I think your stove top will be just fine. I use an electric because of the numbered temp control, but with some patience your idea will work fine.
For the temp on these stars I've had to raise up to about 380F on the dial to get a consistent wet of the solder.
If you dont have solder paste you can just pre tin the star with just enough solder to make a smooth layer over the pads, if the emitter is raised up on a solder bubble your heatsinking will be zero. Getting the center one right is the most important. If for any reason you dont get good contact on the + and - you can come back and fill it in with a good hot soldering iron like in Pilots videos.
To start out with you could just put a bare star with some solder and flux ( I use no clean liquid) and nudge the heat up a little at a time till the solder wets.
When its time to reflow the LED on its a good idea to have it already sitting on the star with the heat off or very low to start so the emitter and star warm slowly together. When its finished I turn off the heat and let the whole thing cool at least until the solder hardens before removing the stars. If they cool too fast they can get shocked, the domes can get little crack under them and all sorts of dumb things.
Ideal temp is going to be just a few degrees above where the solder wets, if you get too hot the LEDs can cook, domes pop off, and the solder mask can burn and detach from the star.
As for cutting them down. A diligent modder can accomplish anything. I dont intend to do it with any because of the potential for shorts, damage etc, but if its for a personal light I think it'd be worth a shot.
Overclocker,
I dont know where to get any in copper larger than the 20s.
nitro,
Thanks for pressing forward with the project. We all have you to thank for the batch of 20mms I have, if you hadn't sent me those 3 I'd have not know the virtue of them.
Thanks very much for that info, perhaps I won’t be killing emitters after all! 
Time will tell…
I’ll post some pics, for better or worse, when all this happens.
A highly related side question.
Where do you guys buy bare leds at low prices?
I get 90% of my LED’s from mouser.com
Illumination supply for Nichia 219s
Cutter for specific bins or hard to find LED’s (MT-G2)
PPtk
vestureofblood, do you ship them to germany?
if yes, what would I have to pay for that?
Thanks for links PilotPTK
Quote from sales thread on CPF Marketplace.
“Shipping is $4 world wide”
$4 anywhere in the world! Wow! My wife ordered some scrubs for work and it turned out to be a company in Canada. We’re in Texas. They didn’t fit. She’s returning them for exchange in a different size. Happens all the time, right? $32.95 to send 3 dresses back to Canada! Seriously, 1 lb. 5 oz.! In the same plastic bag they came in. Man am I glad my stuff don’t cost like that!
Race,
I am with Pilot. illumination supply has a great price on XML2 XPG2 and mouser for most of the rest. There is nothing cheap about ordering from cutter, but they carry so many LEDs in so many bins they still get me sometimes.
Philipp,
Race is correct, everyone is included at $4, I hope this helps.
Which did you buy? Most of what DX lists as “paste” is actually just flux. I’ve ordered SKU4711 twice and it makes flowing an LED really easy. You can use about anything to heat it - hot air gun, solder gun, skillet, oven, etc. The trick is getting the right amount of paste. You use a lot less of it than you think you should. Once you see a little bit of smoke and rippling solder, the LED will pop right into place. At this point very carefully get the star away from the heat source. You don’t want the LED to shift. I find it easiest to hold the star very steady in one hand with a pliers or tweezers and blow a heat gun (or reflow air pencil) on the bottom of the star with the other hand. When the time is right, I hold the star steady and move the gun away with the other hand.
If you end up with just the flux, you can still use it to help flow. You have to put a little solder on the pad first. Then you can wipe just a tiny bit of flux on it. Then put the LED on and heat. The flux really isn’t absolutely needed, but will help remelt the solder evenly and quickly. Doesn’t work as easily as the real paste though. At least in my experience. I do it this way sometimes when reusing a star that already has quite a bit of solder on it.
Ok, 12 more packages leave today. There is a record of each members package to be shipped on CPFMP.
Please everyone try to remember to put your BLF or CPFMP handle in the PP notes so I can add you to the record of shipments.
If you have paid for items and DO NOT see your name listed in any of the shipment logs please let me know, I want to be sure not to miss anyone.
Thanks again guys..
hey matt aren’t you forgetting me 
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hey matt aren’t you forgetting me
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Ahh yes. I have added you to the list. Your package was one that did go out today :)
Yup. That’s the one I use. I think it works well. Good luck with the project.
got my sink pads last night thanks!
Is it fine to trim these SinkPAD’s down to fit into a P60 drop-in, or is it preferable to rather wait for 16mm’s?
Is there precautions one should take when trimming the SinkPAD down so that you don’t damage the electrical paths?
the problem i see its that the + and - spots will be on the edge ,so there will be a good change for those to touch the flashlight body.
Woot !!!! The hard data is in. Thanks again to Match, graphs are now available on these.