You live you learn! Great support @thefreeman truely awesome!
But if I step up from 35V → 50V that could potentially work as well.
I will read up on the topic later!
Searched for bias in LM3409 since I read somewhere about temp…
When selecting a ceramic capacitor, special attention must be paid to the operating conditions of the
application. Ceramic capacitors can lose one-half or more of their capacitance at their rated DC voltage bias and
also lose capacitance with extremes in temperature.
can you describe what you are trying to do?
light the ocean from the shore?
wouldn;t it blind you?
is it just to spot waves, then go out?
or to see while you are surfing?
A few spots around the world have permanent lighting so the idea by itself is not new.
We have tried this spot once during nighttime by bringing a generator and a few car-light-bars. I think we brought something like 20.000 lumens but it was not nearly enough so those 200.000 lumens is merely an estimate.
Found a surfspot in Lima where they actually wrote that spec of the lighting was 2000 Watt. Nothing more.
So If I bring 60W x 30 LEDs I’m at 1800 Watt. But I’m hoping my system will have higher overall efficiency looking at drivers and lumens/watt and so on… So not more than that went into those 200.000 lumens. But I’m doing it in a modular fashion so ~60W * 6 Leds per lamp… Then adding more lamps adds more lumens…
Blinding by the lights? A possibility but I guess that depends a little on the height of the masts.
I live in Sweden so the number of days that brings good waves and a full moon would be like winning the lottery
We only have one spot close to where I live and it’s a nature reserve. So we can’t setup permanent lighting and so on.
Another really critical factor is weight and thus cooling method. Existing highbay lights are usually in the range of 10-20kg due to the passive heatsink approach. Imagine placing a few of those on portable masts. Not gonna happen
My current design is at ~700gr per 360Watts of light
Still waiting for the MCPCBs from Mountain Electronics which derailed my order completely. Paid but the order got lost for a month before they discovered it…
So kept busy developing the controller board for 3x Led driver boards + watercooler pump
3D rendering of the controller and a custom programmer for the board to minimize components on the controller board. First itteration has a USB-C
As a fallback should the programmer fail.
Slapped on a USB-C as a first in any of my project. Not sure I have those details figured out properly since it only works one way…
Controller board accepts 12V-40V input or 5V via USB … Each jumper (3x 4pins) is PWM+GND and two pins for thermistors on driverboards to allow monitoring of temp for critical section of the PCB…
Started moving LEDs from the Kaidomain to the new PCBs …
Took some effort. These copper PCB are quite difficult to solder on since they move the heat from pads to the entire PCB …
Usually we use a hotplate or something that can heat the MCPCB from below. With hot-air/heat gun from the top it heats the LED for a long time before the solder reflows.
With a heat gun you can still heat it from below if you find a way to hold the MCPCB in the air.
Thanks for the link @thefreeman, I tried pre-heating first by holding the LED with tweezer and getting the solder flowing. Then placed the LED but that technique was not great. Will have a look into the proper way of doing it. Have 11 more to go.
Here’s an old video from Matt about how he does it.
This is from the thread mentioned by thefreeman.
Just though it would be easier if the video could be seen here.
All the Best,
Jeff