CRX Switch Mods

[CRX]

Some switch mods that I've done.

DQG Hobi Ti Magnetic Reverse clicky tail switch

Reverse clicky Keyring attachment

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DQG Hobi ti XHP50 Reverse clicky tail switch

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DQG Hobi ti XHP50 Side switch

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DQG Hobi ti Laser side switch

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DQG AA ti Momentary tail switch

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Quantum tritium tail switch

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EagleTac D25C Forward clicky switch

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Emisar D4 Lighted switch

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FourSevens Atom Momentary tail switch

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FourSevens AA ti Reverse clicky switch

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Foursevens Mini ML ti Reverse clicky tail switch

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Foursevens PK Paladin Reverse clicky tail switch

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JetBeam Element E3S Cutouts

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Klarus Mi7 ti tritium switch

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Lumintop Tool ti Magnetic switch

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Manker E14 Forward tail clicky

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Maratac CR123 Reverse clicky tail switch

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MBI HF-R ti Rotary & Momentary side switch

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Nitecore EC11 Lighted switch

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Thrunite Ti2 UV Magnetic momentary switch

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TrustFire Mini -01 Reverse clicky tail switch

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UltraFire UF-10 Reverse clicky

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Vollsion SP11-S Momentary tail switch

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Xeno Cube Forward clicky switch

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Noctigon Meteor Metal switch

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Mods & Builds

[DavidEF]

That’s crazy! Amazing work there, CRX!

[WillyD]

Alright, hold the phone. I need to go back through those pics ’cause I have a lot of questions Nice work, but lots of questions.

[Kepling]

Incredible and beautiful!

[MRsDNF]

I can honestly say I have know eye deer how you guys work in miniaturisation like you do and make it look perfectly. Love it. :+1:

[WillyD]

Ok, so what’s the white foaming stuff and what’s the shiny black stuff?

[CRX]

Clear resin mixed with glow in the dark powder/ graphite powder.

[Rufusbduck]

Amazing detail. How did you measure the current through the momentary switch?

[CRX]

Thanks, i just clamped a piece of wire to each end of the open case then use the DMM between bat- and the switch contact but it’s really just the same as doing a tailcap measurement.

[X31 (-X3-)]

@CRX

Clear resin mixed with glow in the dark powder/ graphite powder.

Where do you buy the clear resin and what is the brand please ?

[Rufusbduck]

@CRX

Thanks, i just clamped a piece of wire to each end of the open case then use the DMM between bat- and the switch contact but it’s really just the same as doing a tailcap measurement.

The difference being it sounds like you include the switch in the circuit unlike most tail cap measurements, nice.

[CRX]

I use three types of two part resin depending on application.
Tommy Walsh clear resin.
151 clear resin.
These two are cheap.
Devcon clear resin.
More expensive but better quality.
Usually buy from *bay.
I think most clear resins will yellow over time but i haven’t noticed it on anything I’ve done yet.
I also use kaffuta UV setting glue from fasttech. I used this directly on the LED and sanded/ polished flush with the GITD ring at the front to protect the emitter.

[CRX]

Yeah those 10180 cells will give their lives if you ask them :laughing: , about 20-25c for short periods.
I’ve had some give out 2A but they don’t last long at that so i thought momentary direct drive would be a good idea for briefly lighting something up and the QTC for more extended runtime lower lighting.
A really useful setup worn on a neck chain.

[DavidEF]

@CRX

Yeah those 10180 cells will give their lives if you ask them :laughing: , about 20-25c for short periods.
I’ve had some give out 2A but they don’t last long at that so i thought momentary direct drive would be a good idea for briefly lighting something up and the QTC for more extended runtime lower lighting.
A really useful setup worn on a neck chain.

I’ve also seen 1.5A from a 10180 before. Surprising, since their capacity is only 90mAH. Well, it figures to just less than 17C, but still seems like a lot, because they’re so small!

[CRX]

They seem to average around 60-65mAh, the 90mAh claim is a bit optimistic, unless i’ve just been getting the lower capacity IMR type.

The MBI Nuke 10250 tests at 90mAh, i have two of them waiting for me to do something with…