Custom AMC7135 Driver

Awesome driver PPtk!

Would it be possible to modify a standard Nanjg 105C board to have Mode-Memory that sets after turn-off rather than after turn-on?

How expensive would a custom AMC7135 board be with (because I recon you would get a lot of interest off the forum for something like this, I know I would buy 4):

  • 3-mode (L/M/H) or 5-mode (moonlight/low/medium/high/turbo), maybe have 2 stars and people can solder them on their own free will. I will simplify coding the chips.
  • Had Mode-Memory that sets after turn-off rather than after turn-on.
  • Had Low-Voltage cut-off that would reduce brightness, but not completely leave me without light.
  • Had Temperature monitoring/throttling so that I wouldn’t burn up a light if I left it on.

Does anyone know of someone who could build something similar for me? I don’t need the low-power mode and I’m basically just interested in a driver which turns on a new AMC7135 chip for each click of the button. This would create an eight-level driver without PWM. I think that could be great.

Any help would be appreciated.

Can't believe I missed this one! Great work pptk!

Did you work with FT on their driver? Individually controlled amc. Then your light bar I drool over... Was that WiFi or BT controlled?

Simon,

We can do it together if you like. I’m thinking of using a 20pin SSOP part but might be hard
to put/layout it in a 17mm board.
:beer:

Thanks Pulsar. Nope, I didn't work with FastTech on theirs - in fact, I didn't even know they had one! Link?

My light bar is Blue-Tooth controllable, although I never got around to writing an android app for it. I have an app that I pounded together in VB for windows that runs on my netbook, but I really do want to figure out how to write it for Android one of these days..

PPtk

their driver in the flex asgard

Ohhh.. That one. Gotcha. I thought they had an individually addressable 17mm driver available. That Flex Asgard driver won't quite fit in a P60 :)

no it wont, but both of the good features were already featured in your features...

by the way, anyone mention lately how awesome that light bar is?

Very nice. Seems like there would be some out there willing to pay for them. Especially professionals working with moving machinery.

Do you have any links that could help one learn to program the type of mcu you used?

I’m up for a challenge, although even the abbreviation SSOP is beyond me. I’m sure I’m out of my depth.

Let me start another topic/thread for this and see if we can do it. I’ll let you know and provide you a link.

:beer:

Here’s the new topic/thread:

Unless you're just up for a masochistic challenge, don't go too crazy on this. I've got something in the works that should be at least somewhat reasonably priced.. To be announced in the next 7-10 days..

well, add one to that order. im up for any custom made driver that i dont need to sell my one off titanium piece to buy.

stuff like this makes me wish i did something with my life besides watching the bright light, hanging iron and turning bolts

Great! Thanks PPtk.

Posted in this thread

Not quite ready for sale, but it gives you an idea of what I'm up to....

PPtk

Me either. I am very willing to pay for a quality product.

Hello PilotPTK and everyone else at thius forum -

I’m new to forums. If this question is not appropriate or posted in the wrong lace, please let me know. I was given some LED driver boards by the principal scientist on a research project I’m working and was told that their use was absolutely essential for a prototype used in our experiment. These are small circular board purchased from DealExtreme by my predecessor. Each board has three AMC7135 drivers and other associated parts.

My question is this…I have to drive a blacklight LED (around 365nm). I have the datasheet for the chip, buy I don’t know how to choose the best match in an LED. What are the critical datapoints I should be matching up between the chip data and the LED data?

Any help that any of you can render will help make life bearable again.

Thanks,
windketch

The AMC7135 is a linear current regulator. It's capable of dropping excess voltage from its input to match the Vf of an LED at 350mA (Per AMC7135).

Based upon this, your input voltage must be higher than the LED voltage in order for the AMC7135 to regulate properly. Being a linear regulator, however, it drops the excess voltage as heat, so you don't want an input voltage that is too much higher than the LED Vf.

Pretty much every single specification in the AMC7135 datasheet is relevant. You have to pay attention to temperature rise based on the number of watts you're burning off as heat, absolute maximum input voltage (6V is memory serves), and you'll need to decide how many AMC7135 chips to use to power your LED to the drive level you're trying to attain.

If you have specific questions, I or someone else will be happy to answer them. Asking what the crucial data points are, however, is an impossible question since we don't know your requirements, your application or what is critical to you. What one person considers crucial, you might consider meaningless. The reverse could also be true.

PPtk

One comment, the datasheet recommends 2.7 to 6 volts, but but the absolute max rating is 7 volts.

Hi Pilot PTK -

Thank you very much for pointing me in the right direction. I’ll give it a go working it out from this starting point.

regards-
windketch