Why don’t you get a solder station & learn how to solder??
It is not that expensive.
It is not rocket science.
AND… It will open up a whole new world to you.
It’s a win / win, go for it.
You are right. Others have mentioned this. At this moment I can not. But when things settle down with finances and everything else I would enjoy doing that learning how to do that.
Issue resolved. Neodymium magnets adhere to the positive and negative end. I used the battery who had a broken solder blob to test it. Photos below
A member on here suggested to do that to confirm or deny that it was metal alloy that was a compatible with soldering.
He volunteered to fix them. :+1:
Be careful with the magnet on the positive side. It can easily cause a short when it slips under the white insulator ring.
No worries. I do have some knowledge.
What are you doing up at 3:17 in the morning?
Still drinking some of that great German beer 
Pardon me for speaking in his turn, but those are not the same button tops that people will add to cells. Those are OEM type caps for the tubes. He’s showing you the seal/gasket that can be damaged by the heat of an iron tip (indirectly or through contact with a slip). Those are crimped into the tube with a machine.
On the bottom of those caps you can see the pressure relief mechanism…that little circle. It’s pretty thin and often lightly scored so that if pressure in the cell builds up through a short, that little vent will rupture and allow the gas to go out the holes between the button legs.
I’m glad he provided the photo. This is what I was talking about with the paper insulator that Liion added that should probably be removed…the thin rings suffice to add protection if the wrap is damaged in that location, no need and no good reason to cover the whole top of the cell like that. It’s not the worst thing but it does potentially affect a built in safety function of the cell. I have a handful of cells that they rewrapped (50E with a semi-raised button) and they used a normal proper thin insulator ring on those. Not sure why he would have done this on your cells. Perhaps his idea was to prevent shorts and didn’t realize the big picture. Looking at all of the Vapcells I have around the only ones that they covered the top completely with an insulator are the 14500s and 16340s…and I have a Wurkkos 18650 with that, too (but the Sofirns did not).
Rather than solder or especially magnets, I might recommend picking up or DIYing something like these. Simon brought them out for 2S configurations but they work just fine as a button for a single cell. It’s one more thing to keep track of but they do the job better - keeps itself centered in the tube/on the cell/on the driver so no risk of shorts, won’t shift around if spring(s) allow for battery rattle, and it can be used on either end of the cell so whatever works best for the task. And they’re cheap. He’s got them for 21 and 26 as well.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803132077843.html
When needed I have used magnets, what I did to stop any slips was put 3 very tiny dots of glue around the edge of the magnet (don’t use superglue it’s too thin and may go underneath) let it dry overnight and it’s all fine.
I’m not clear on that comment. Maybe I misunderstood ? I think you are talking to me ?
Liionwholesale didn’t sell me the 25S cells.
How would those work in a 4 cell battery carrier? What keeps it adhered to the negative flat top? Is it magnetic ?
I’m not sure they would work for a 3 or 4 cell carrier because they probably have too much circumference and would be sticking out too much.
Some batteries are obviously a little wider than others and may have a couple wraps on them. I’ve struggled to get those in my carriers.
They would be of no use to me for a single cell 18650 flashlight. For one I rarely use them anymore cuz they’re outdated and they all have a spring or a solder blob at the head so button tops aren’t necessary.
It’s a good idea. I realize they are 18 mm but with four of them in there I don’t know.
The only reason I’m in this particular now with these 25s cuz the Iran sale and the guy said he could put solder blobs on them! All my batteries are required button tops or third party from Lion wholesale and maybe another place. The last time I saw her blobs were recycled two and a half years ago. The ones in the photo.
To finalize my dissertation I will say that I’m grateful for the member on here who is going to fix them and he’s very very well qualified. I sent them to him an hour ago they will arrive Tuesday. :+1:
I seem the forget stuff on certain posts.
The reason I put those magnets on the 25S rewrap( that’s the blue rewrap one where his little baby button top fell off on first application into the carrier!) was to make sure that it was a metal that was compatible and conducive for soldering.
The guy who did those feeble mini BB tops told me he thought the 25s was a different metal than the VTC5D,30Q and others, and that’s why he was struggling.
I think people on here, not think I know the people on here know a lot more about it than him.
He probably didn’t have his soldering iron hot enough.
He shouldn’t even be selling custom bottom tops when he doesn’t know what he’s doing.
The last comment I’ll say about that company is I’ve ordered from them maybe five or six times. I’ve had zero issues when I ordered regular batteries. The two times I got custom BT batteries, the first ones(VTC5D they are in the op photo gallery) were barely acceptable and of course these 25s which are pathetic!lol
Lesson learned I’ll never get custom button tops from them again regardless if they’re on sale. Lion wholesale and a few others have plenty of third-party custom button tops.
Cochise…whoops…two apologies from me. 
I forgot you were focused on the carrier, and yeah, those button boards from Simon probably aren’t good for that at all, sorry. I guess if the fit were ok they’d work, but I can’t imagine a good way to secure them and not be fiddly about it. And when I said 25S in regards to the added paper insulator, I really meant the VTC6 they did for you.
Missed that part about someone here offering to fix them up, too, but I’m glad you’ll be able to get them done satisfactorily.
^
No problem. Have a good weekend
GO EAGLES!!!
Just one note on neodymium magnets.
They get less and less magnetic the higher the temperature. It mostly comes back when they cool back down. They aren’t supposed to be permanently damaged until past 80°C but a bunch of cycles to high temps and eventually they’ll be noticeably weaker. They also don’t like rapid heating and rapid cooling too much theyll eventually crack from the stress. They’re just really brittle in general.
Complete domination and annihilation of that feeble New York team!
A High school team would have giving the Eagles better competition! 
I think it was the 18650 GA that had a raised button without adding one? Good all round cell. Yeah here it ishttps://liionwholesale.com/products/panasonic-sanyo-ncr18650ga-flat-top-1?variant=12534245700
Semi buttontopish
I’m not a fan of them in lights at all really, but they do fine. One thing I’ve been curious about is if there is a practical applicable limit to the current they can handle…don’t think anyone has tested that in the past in our circles. The typical N35 and N42 grades can start to lose their strength at as little at 45°C and as the temp goes up they lose more and regain less…that 80°C is where it reaches curie temperature and the magnetism is permanently lost can cannot be recovered. The N52 adds a little temp resistance but not much, and they do have some special high heat grades, but again, not adding a lot. For our purposes we just don’t seem to see those temps in the circuit where it affects anything, other than some one-off incidents where there was a direct short (the kind that flattens springs and melts switches).
Some years ago I put a small disc magnet on an oil drain plug…was surprised when it seemed to lose some strength over a couple of oil changes, and then learned more about the temp resistances (that one had pretty much free flowing air on it, too). Swapped it with an N52 and it was good from there on out.
I forget which site now but I think it was KJ Magnetics that had some excellent resource articles on these, more in depth (good stuff about pull force and how that’s tested/rated, too).
Yes, I like those for that reason and have started to prefer them in my UV lights for the slight edge on voltage sag at moderate loads. The 50E is sometimes found with that semi-raised top, too (liion had them under their house wrap for awhile, maybe they still do).
Just noticed this post.
To me they’re better than okay. It takes talent to make them that high and consistent. I’m sure others can do it but I’ve yet to see any.
I doubt very much the cell was overheated. He’s over the cell three seconds and it’s done. I used those cells for 3 years and then recycled them. Can seal was definitely not melted.
BENGALS — BENGALS — BENGALS — Josh Allen didn’t know what hit him