hello all. after so much reading about you guys always testing amp draws from your lights to see whether or not you got a “lemon” or just to see if its underdriven or what not….
im now curious to find out how good my batteries and flashlights are.
could you guys recommend me a cheap and decent one thats easy to use. i have no idea what im doing. so i dont want to start with a hi tech one. just a basic one will do….for now.
Get a cheap DMM with a 10A DC current range (unfused might be best) and make you own test cables.
There are a ton of DMM (multimeter) suggestion threads. I don't have any off-hand to recommend myself, but I know there is one that is commonly recommended. But yes, do make your own leads from thick gauge wire or you'll end up with untrustworthy results (see my comparison on my KD C8).
Just don't get that cheap meter Harbor Freight sells. It's ok for voltages, but stinks for tailcap currents (as seen in my post linked). I think Walmart even carries a decent one.
-Garry
how do i make the cables. do i use the parts the dmm came with?
Nah, just get some spare cords from electrical appliances and strip the insulation off the two ends.
They’re more suitable for 3-4A current draws.
No, you buy some 4 mm connectors (banana plugs) and a piece of thick wire (As thick as will fit in the plugs and maybe 2x30cm long). You can probably find both in a shop with high quality car audio equipment.
I bought my banana plugs at Radio Shack and 12 gauge wire from there as well. Some of the strands of the wire didn't fit into the plug - it's all soldered together though so it's not like I left strands hanging. All I did on the "testing" end of the leads is tin the wires (i.e. apply solder to the strands so it's one soldered unit).
-Garry
ahhh i get it. ok cool thanks, ill check out walmart and look on ebay or something
Most meters aren’t that good at measuring current. The thickest and shortest lead that will do the job are the best. If you can fit railway lines into the sockets, so much the better.
Just as long as the wire bit is made of copper and not cheese.
My condolences to you…
laying about and take an amp measurement. Then I add .10 of an amp to the reading. Why? My much better quality DMM with nice thick wires reads about that much higher consistently so I just adjust the cheapo read-outs accordingly. I can manage the addition. 
I don’t like messing around with the good one for run of the mill tests for cheapo lights. I save that DMM for the higher-end stuff.
I don’t know about Radio Shack wire, but I have tested LOTS of supposedly 100% pure copper wire (many from name brands) with some very precision equipment. Surprisingly little these days passes muster. Some have over 3 times the resistance of pure copper. Others have copper coat slathered over a silver (well aluminum) core. Then there is that 100% pure copper wire from China that is magnetic…
Texas, how much resistance should pure copper wire have?
if thats the case, then i may just do the same. now i dont have to make any wires, and im good to go. you have a link to a cheap one that you own?
Don't get the Harbor Freight one! Sucks for currents, even with thick leads - see my post linked above.
-Garry
HKJ had some interesting things to say about this subject in a different thread.
He explained that his Fluke with good leads would read less than an inexpensive (but reasonably good) meter with good leads.
He showed a photo of the waveform and explained that becausee the wave form fluctuated cyclically, the true measurement of amperage should take that into account - something the Fluke actually did. On the other hand, the other meter read higher because it simply reported the level of the peaks in the curve - something to think about!
By the way, there was also a debate between PilotPTK and HKJ in that thread relating to the efficacy of clamp (no-touch) meters. I wish I had a link to the thread but you can do a search.
Regards,
Bob
I did and it works like charm! Thanks.
If you look on ebay there are some decent test leads, I look for a 10a or 20a rated, haven’t paid more than about $5, and at least half of them were OK, the bad ones refunded when I complained.
Welcome to the gang, Danglerb!
