Direct drive Nichia 219C?

From djozz’s test :

(emphasis mine)

How much is too much, or how much would it pull in a light with a FET driver, spring bypasses, and a high-amp cell?

I guess the concern is that the LED would pull more than say, 6A - at which point it is only consuming more battery while making more heat and less lumens?

Asking because I’m considering putting a 219C in a C8 that has a FET and spring bypasses.

I will be facing the same problem perhaps, when i put 4x 219C in my S41S (which is still in China by the way…)
or probably the Keeppower 18350 will be the victim…
But with a VTC5in the 18650 tube, each 219C will be able to draw some 7 Amperes…??

Dont waste your time m8, not worth it- youll get like 60-65k cds out of this, and the emitter will prolly die fast or even quite fast

Nope, its actualy quite a nice setup and quite a different story
Youll be reading prolly….12 amps TOPS, not to say 10 or even less

Well I wouldn’t be doing it to make record numbers, I just wanted to have a high-CRI thrower and happened to have a 219CT 4000K R9050 around.

Do you think using a low-amperage cell like a NCR18650B would be enough to restrict current and keep the LED alive? Or NCR18650B and eliminate the tail spring bypass?

I put 4 219cs in my S41S. Even swapped to the mtnelec bistro driver with a thru-board bypass. It does 9 amps on my best imr 18350. That’s not even pushing them hard, no problem at all for them. Heat is another issue though.

With an 18650 tube, however, things could get a lot higher. I still don’t think you’d kill it though.

That is the correct line of thought, try it and if the current is still too high, try thinner ledwires.
Or invest in a 6A LD3 driverfrom led4power, they are almost designed for the 219C.

Direct drive single 219C + fully charged high drain = emitter death. Triples and quads are great, but if you're going to go with a 219C and a single cell you'd best use a regulated driver.

So what is “too high”? Anything over 6A? (I realize there is some subjectivity in that answer)

I had been looking at the LD3 driver as well for a different light I had in mind - maybe I take the FET+1 out of the C8 and use it for the new project, and try the LD3 in the C8 219C.

Well on the RED curve, you clearly see that the apogee of lumens is around 6A… after that I’d guess that you begin to destroy the emitter because the more you raise the current the less you get lumens

I just finished a 219C D320 SW403 9050 triple. When running from a 30q the the newest Mountain 17DD+1 with bypasses in place it draws 11.59 amps. It will not run on high for more than about 8 seconds before it voltage sags to the next mode down. The tint and flood are wonderful! I am going to try it in a quad P60 next, heat will restrict the runtime. I may even program the driver to exclude DD mode!

I just ran a test today actually on the 90+ CRI 219C’s from the group buy while doing some other work with them.

First I found that with a high drain cell they will pull upwards of 10A+ on a single emitter, much too high. If you turn down the max duty on the FET you can limit current with works fine and is what I am doing at the moment for turbo.

Here is an output test I ran on the 219’s, they basically mimic Djozz’s test just with lower output due to the lower bin. Sometimes you just have to see for yourself.

Click for larger version:

If you use cheap laptop pulls or the like you can also limit current that way as well. This might be how I go long term on all but my EDC.

That’s not actual current limiting though, is it?
That’s just pulsing 10 Amperes…

In turbo it was around 10A with a 30Q cell, it would have been a bit more with an HE2. It may have actually been more then 10A, I didn’t check the amp draw till after the cell had drained a fair amount. Although it was only putting out ~750 lumens in turbo so it was way over 8A thats for sure based on the test above you can see it has a long way to go until it dropped down to 750 lumens.

This is actually why I checked the amp draw, I knew something was wrong when I got 700 lumens @ 2.5A regulated and then 750 lumens in turbo with it getting hot scary fast.

So basically a single 219C is not fit for true direct drive with a full high drain cell.
And judging by the graph, there’s no real point in exceeding 5 Amperes either.
And since this is at about 3.5 Volts, it seems to me it would work very well on 14 x 7135.
It will be regulated for the better part of the charge of the cell.
Sounds good to me. :slight_smile:

(edit)Hmm… Forgot about the losses in the springs and the switch…
(edit 2)…and the wires and everything…
(edit 3)Still doable though. :slight_smile:

But where can you get a driver that can hold 14 7135’s in a 17mm driver?

Something like the LD-3 should work well though.

You could stack them on a nanjg 105.
But you’re the driver man, i have no idea other than 7315 drivers.

I’m thinking about a momentary turbo button though, that will switch on an extra bank of 7135s.
If it gets too hot you will let go :smiley:
And without it you just run 7x 7135 with the regular PWM modes.

Could fit inside the head.
You have the - and + form the LED and the main - from the body already there.
Just switch the + on.

I am working on a driver that will more less do that now, the plan is to use it is the GT but I started out with a 17mm version to make prototyping cheaper. It doesn’t use 7135’s though but will regulate the current with non-pwm output along with full FET PWM and turbo option.

I will announce it after I get the prototype tested and the cosmetic selection of the GT is done.

Either way, the 219’s do need a regulated driver to work at thier best. An FET with the duty turned down works as well in a pinch.

Is the 219C safe for direct drive from a 16340?
I have an older fenix E15, it goes direct drive with 16340s and I was hoping to put a 219C in there.

1126 lumen @ 23,4 watt….not bad for a 9050 Nichia. I thought it would be lower.
Did someone just mentioned D320 9050 219C?