[quote=toddcshoe]
Does the switch have a better feel than the UT01?
I’m hesitant to buy because of those switch issues, you may have different issues but mine pretty much does what it wants when it wants, and unscrewing the tail doesn’t change things, for the most part the light is unusable. I hope this S1 has a better switch.
The coupon period was extended until March 31
The email I got 8 days ago did show it expires 3/22 however I tried it tonight I’m getting the “Ask me for code” price shown above. $23.99
OK great, was waiting for some feedback, which now we have some. 
The feel of the switch is very similar. Maybe a bit more stout requiring a more firm push on the button. However if it really is more robust and just not broken in as well at the UT01’s button then it may very well be the same switch, not real sure. If my eyes were a bit better and I felt comfortable taking it apart without destroying anything I certainly would.
As far as my switch problems on the UT01, it would turn on and operate just fine. When you turned it off it wouldn’t come back on until you unscrewed the tail cap and tightened it back up. Then it would work fine again until you shut if off again.
Thanks for the feedback on the S1 switch. Not really what I wanted to hear though!
On your UT01 that certainly sounds like a driver issue, not the switch itself.
On my UT01 the switch would work correctly with very hard presses, I’ve corrected the problem on mine tonight with komeko’s mod:
Interested
Got mine today, cool little light!
Definitely more of a premium feel and operation compared to other lights in this price range.
Came with the rechargeable battery!
Lots of exclamation points. Great value.
Tint is way less than 5000k unless the color of the cavity is affecting the output.
I prefer 5000k at work but this is too nice and the beam pattern wouldn’t be great for daytime use.
Just so you know: lots of rings and artifacts in the output, tint is all over and nowhere near 5000k(I’ve modded almost all of my lights with 5000k emitters so I have plenty of references), I’ve never been a fan of warm tints because I have no nostalgia for incans or the “good old days”, but…… I still love it! The tint and odd character of the beam pattern are great for creeping around my old house when everyone else is asleep.
I may even go warmer with this one and order another and try to clean up the beam to make it better for work. Build quality is so nice for the price it’s worth a little effort to mod it how I want it.
Finally a better clip on a budget light!
I show my group buy coupon code for public use!
.
Pity. 
I was awaiting for a credit from GB to order it. Hopefully we can see this deal again.
Hm,
my Utorch S1 Mini driver seems defekt, or the firmware has a bug.
I can’t get to high.
Mode switching seems normal with full batteries at over 4V. It is acting up from 3.8V 3.9V and lower:
I can’t cycle L-M-H … , I can only do one L-M-H and then L-M -L-M … only switching between two states, can’t go anymore to high. If I switch off I can do once L-M-H and then only L-M.
If I switch it off in M and then again on I can go one time up to H and then again only L-M cycling.
It can’t be the normal thermal regulation because the head has only body temperature.
Regardles of head temperature I had to switch it off
Has anybody the same issue?
Got this from Giveaway, mine also does exactly that switching it off first gives back High mode. Seems weird. It is like you can only get High mode once until you switch it off and back on again.
Thanks rizky_p !
If this is the normal behaviour it is surely a bug.
It works normal with voltages above 3,8V.
Which corresponds with the one blink battery check (capacity below 30% according to the manual). Normally 50% capacity are 3,0V.
So that’s wrong.
The behaviour not going to full would be a good battery saver.
The one blink at 3V (capacity below 10%) and not going to high would be good.
So I assume they f up the implementation. Either firmware or a wrong voltage devider.
Can anyone comment on the temp/ tint of the 6500K? Not sure if I should order the CW in hopes of getting one that comes closer to NW, than others seem to be getting when they order 5000K
Has anyone done a tail cap current test yet. I’m curious as to how much current the driver is drawing from the 16340 on high?
1,57A
Well that’s not it then. Thought the battery couldn’t keep up a high enough voltage with the current but even crappy cells should hold a decent voltage at that current. I modified a 16340 light that would do the same thing as described above but it was drawing a little over 3 amps. Most 16340’s can’t hold a voltage above 3v when you apply a load over 3 amps(1 to 3 minutes). Trustfire’s and AW’s were about the best I found.
My group buy coupon code works again!
Code is expired
