Thanks for the feedback on the S1 switch. Not really what I wanted to hear though!
On your UT01 that certainly sounds like a driver issue, not the switch itself.
On my UT01 the switch would work correctly with very hard presses, I’ve corrected the problem on mine tonight with komeko’s mod:
Interested
Got mine today, cool little light!
Definitely more of a premium feel and operation compared to other lights in this price range.
Came with the rechargeable battery!
Lots of exclamation points. Great value.
Tint is way less than 5000k unless the color of the cavity is affecting the output.
I prefer 5000k at work but this is too nice and the beam pattern wouldn’t be great for daytime use.
Just so you know: lots of rings and artifacts in the output, tint is all over and nowhere near 5000k(I’ve modded almost all of my lights with 5000k emitters so I have plenty of references), I’ve never been a fan of warm tints because I have no nostalgia for incans or the “good old days”, but…… I still love it! The tint and odd character of the beam pattern are great for creeping around my old house when everyone else is asleep.
I may even go warmer with this one and order another and try to clean up the beam to make it better for work. Build quality is so nice for the price it’s worth a little effort to mod it how I want it.
Finally a better clip on a budget light!
I show my group buy coupon code for public use!
.
Pity. 
I was awaiting for a credit from GB to order it. Hopefully we can see this deal again.
Hm,
my Utorch S1 Mini driver seems defekt, or the firmware has a bug.
I can’t get to high.
Mode switching seems normal with full batteries at over 4V. It is acting up from 3.8V 3.9V and lower:
I can’t cycle L-M-H … , I can only do one L-M-H and then L-M -L-M … only switching between two states, can’t go anymore to high. If I switch off I can do once L-M-H and then only L-M.
If I switch it off in M and then again on I can go one time up to H and then again only L-M cycling.
It can’t be the normal thermal regulation because the head has only body temperature.
Regardles of head temperature I had to switch it off
Has anybody the same issue?
Got this from Giveaway, mine also does exactly that switching it off first gives back High mode. Seems weird. It is like you can only get High mode once until you switch it off and back on again.
Thanks rizky_p !
If this is the normal behaviour it is surely a bug.
It works normal with voltages above 3,8V.
Which corresponds with the one blink battery check (capacity below 30% according to the manual). Normally 50% capacity are 3,0V.
So that’s wrong.
The behaviour not going to full would be a good battery saver.
The one blink at 3V (capacity below 10%) and not going to high would be good.
So I assume they f up the implementation. Either firmware or a wrong voltage devider.
Can anyone comment on the temp/ tint of the 6500K? Not sure if I should order the CW in hopes of getting one that comes closer to NW, than others seem to be getting when they order 5000K
Has anyone done a tail cap current test yet. I’m curious as to how much current the driver is drawing from the 16340 on high?
1,57A
Well that’s not it then. Thought the battery couldn’t keep up a high enough voltage with the current but even crappy cells should hold a decent voltage at that current. I modified a 16340 light that would do the same thing as described above but it was drawing a little over 3 amps. Most 16340’s can’t hold a voltage above 3v when you apply a load over 3 amps(1 to 3 minutes). Trustfire’s and AW’s were about the best I found.
My group buy coupon code works again!
Code is expired
confirmed
Im also interested
and fwiw, it makes sense to me that turbo does not work at 3.8v, and I confirm that at 3.78v my Utorch does a single blink
and, fwiw, ToyKeeper considers 3.8v to be 50% depleted, and recommends charging by 3.6v
so, the utorch battery check blink of 1 flash is both a NoTurbo zone, and a recharge reminder, but yes, the battery can go lower. The protection will shut off at 2.7v afaik, but not good for the battery to go that low for long.
Ive got a long thread full of pics and my Utorch impressions
I find the floody beam very useful as a close range worklight and headlamp
Im also looking for a modder w some of Clemences sw40 9080, and or sm303 in stock. Please PM me if interested in helping me expand my High CRI options.
Thanks for the confirmation on ~3.8V .
Half empty is always a good level to charge an EDC.
I don’t give a dam on the battery, when I need light. When I want to get out of the wood and I need one hour longer it is unacceptable when the lamp runs only in low because going below 50% capacity is better for the battery.
The LG INR 18650 HG2 is speced for its cycle life by a cut off voltage off 2V.
Samsung 30Q specs 2.5V as cut off.
LG specs a 100mA low temperature discharge test down to 1.5V.
Batteries can go way below and the included battery has also a discharge protection.
So I find 3.6V is too drastic to dissable HIGH mode.
If I look on this discharge curve of an protected 16340
https://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/AW%2016340%20ICR123%20750mAh%20(Black)%202016%20UK.html
It is OK not to stress a battery in day to day use, but when it is your only light. I think No
here is the runtime graph
from this review
The Utorch can not maintain 600 lumens flat regulated output for more than a minute or two, neither can any other 16340 light.
A 16340 battery can hold steady output of 100 lumens, for more than 3 hours.
just noticed it for just $3 more, no special code needed
https://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_1356404.html?wid=21&lkid=13384859
Interesting when cooled the NW holds at 50% for nearly 40 min. compared to the CW which drops to 30% in 2 minutes.
Yes, but in all cases the 600 lumens is not maintained for more than a minute.
That is why I think joechina’s light is not defective. There is no light that maintains the Turbo for the full runtime spec. The rules for runtime allow to keep the clock timer running until the light is at 10% of initial brightness. Being unaware of this technicality, leads a lot of people to believe the light will run for over an hour on turbo, but its just false advertising.
here is another reviewers runtime plots, first chart shows Turbo lasts for 40 seconds only, then starts dropping off.
https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/50360
In the second chart he seems to be getting more than 9!!! hours on Medium… (zeroair review got less than 4 hours, I dont know what Narmattaru did different). But in both cases, note the Medium runs at constant flat regulated output, but not turbo…
fwiw, the Utorch manual says medium lasts less than 4 hours, similar to the Zeroair runtime chart.
The Zeroair runtime for Turbo seems similar to the specs in the manual. Though Narmattaru’s runtime curves are similar, there seems to be a discrepancy in his time scale, like 2-3x more runtime than spec… not sure why…
Imo, runtime will generally be the same for CW and NW, it is just that NW will be less bright than CW.
