Interesting. Probably the same exact light I have since mine is unbranded too. Darn! Now I can't find it by searching "Dongrui"!
-Garry
Which is why I posted it here, on your thread, where anyone interested would be able to easily locate the new SKU! 
I helps where I can...
Added new beamshots with comparison to the Super Tactics to the end of the original post.
-Garry
The reflector on this is the same size as almost all Chinese flashlights, 41-42mm x 31-32mm, the C8 reflector.
Interesting. Looks exactly like mine but XM-L. Seems a decent total price too.
-Garry
I measured my Dongrui All-920 this morning and I got about a 20cm hotspot at 3m. This light seems to perform very similar to the Jacob A60.
-Garry
Garry,
You've had the Dongrui for some time now. How well does the Q5 take those 2A from battery? For how long do you usually keep it on High? How is heatsinking?
I'm asking since I'm still reluctant to let my rather poorly heatsinked Jacob A60 run above 1.75A. That means taking care about which battery I use.
I honestly haven't used it much at all except when I went underground with it. There I purposely ran it on high for 5 to 10 minutes at a time (I would set it up aimed where I wanted it and then take some time getting the camera propped up and the photo taken - with maybe a couple tries at the photo). I was in 49 degree F ambient temperature at the time. The battery was freshly charged and either a Trustfire Flame 2400 or a Tenergy 2600 (not sure which ones were in which lights) - both of which have been good batteries and both only on their second charge cycle. I noticed the light starting to get warm on the body at the head, but never hot and never saw any problems with the light. (Perhaps never getting really hot is showing the bad heatsinking?) I figure if I burn it up it's only about $5 and some of my time to throw another XR-E in it.
I still haven't investigated the actual heatsink any further to see if it's hollow or not or if it can be beefed up at all.
-Garry
Thank you Garry.
I'm afraid I missed your 5 to 10 min info in the other thread.
Perhaps I'm being too cautious with mine... 
You know I also left the light on for about 10 minutes or so while taking beamshots at home seen in this thread. That's when I first noticed it warm but not hot.
-Garry
Thank you Viffer. Never would’ve seen that without you. Ordered one. We’ll see how it goes.
The seller is TomTop_w who also owns tomtop.com. He is known here for selling Sipik SK68 clones but has a lot of other stuff, including some interesting low-cost home LED light bulbs (I was surprised how cheap the low-end of LED home lighting has gotten–how good, I don’t know yet). I searched his items to find a US dollar one. Current price for the flashlight linked is a $16.73, supposedly a temporary sale price. Apparently when you make a TomTop ebay purchase they send you a 10% off code for tomtop.com, although at least some Ebay prices still seem to be cheaper. It’s an interesting and probably within-the-rules way to try to avoid paying Ebay fees.
Anyway, it’s the only XM-L version of the type of flashlight discussed in this thread I’ve seen, and the price is right (considering it as a gift, might keep it for myself). As some might know about me, I am a big fan of having ‘candle’ mode available (open LED, no reflector or lens), and in this model, the pill screws into the body, not the head.
I worry that the LED is just mounted to a circuitboard in a hollow pill. I have lately been filling up pills with thermal grease in big syringe type tubes, which can be bought extremely cheaply from China off Ebay. The process is not perfect (messy and a little frustrating); I so far do not venture to dissemble the pills, just try to squirt the stuff in as much as possible to add thermal mass and pathway. Seems to help, but I typically don’t do long runtimes.
I've had this Dongrui 920 for a while now, and while it does throw really well, it never really leave a very big impression on me. Tailcap draw was 1.4A on high (vs garry's ~2A), which was supposed to be the sweet spot for XR-E, but not too impressive nevertheless.
Anyway, after being inside the drawer for a while, and pondering whether or not an XM-L transplant should be done, I decided just to run this on direct drive. The incremental driver was getting on my nerve anyway.
Converting to DD was very easy to do. I just unscrewed the whole pill, pry the driver out, pull off the -ve wire and sandwich back the bare wire on the side when putting the driver back - nice and tight.
Turn it on and the difference was obvious. My immediate thought was "NICE... finally something to this light". Took it outside and WHOA! Lightsaber! This $13 light can REALLY throw! It's a whole new light altogether on DD, no question.
I know now why garry loved his so much, this light is impressive! The alu reflector is doing its job really well, all that was needed were those little extra AMPS :) This light now draw 2.2A on TF Flame. No blue tint at all, so I reckon it's not pushing the XR-E too far. Heatsinking was no problem with the screw-on driver.
Same glashlight on dinodirect 
I think its interesting because its compact and has a clip
I think it gives somewhat wider hotspot than C8, so that’s interesting too
Ok, seems this light is now available with an XM-L U2 branded as a "Uniquefire UF-V3" and available all over the place (Ebay, DinoDirect, lightmalls). There are 5 modes and 3 modes (Hi-Low-Strobe) available.
-Garry
Yep, we’ll see if its any good in a few weeks :bigsmile:
I’ve modded the pill on my ‘Dongrui’ ALL-920…
The ALL-920 comes with a lightweight hollow aluminum pill that accepts a larger-diameter driver. I wanted to replace the driver with a NANJG 105C, so I had to modify the pill to accept the 17mm driver. I modded the NANJG driver by removing two of the 7135s, dropping the output current to 2100mA.
Original Pill and driver:
Driver with modded NANJG for size comparison…
The first thing I did was strip the ALL-920 pill. The XR-E emitter was glued in with an extremely thick layer of what appeared to be standard silicone adhesive (Not a thermal paste). I painstakingly removed the glue from the emitter base and the pill. I had noted that a standard P60 pill was nearly small enough to drop into the ALL-920 pill. I used a file to hand-sand the threads of the P60 pill until it was a press-fit into the ALL-920 pill. I then notched the P60 pill above the drilled wire pass-throughs to ensure that the wire wouldn’t be pinched when inserting the P60 pill into the ALL-920 pill. If I had more time and a table-top belt sander, I would have completely sanded down the lips on the emitter-side of the P60 pill so it would be a flat Aluminum-to-Copper(brass?) face-to-face connection, then press the components together with a bit of Fujik to help contribute to the thermal interface. But I didn’t.
I press-fit the P60-pill into the All-920 pill, then soldered it to the copper ring on the All-920 pill using a butane torch to heat the metal.
I was then able to install the NANJG driver with bit of sanding to fit the P60 insert. I re-installed the emitter with the proper level of Fujik to help the heatsinking. I used normal CPU thermal grease on the pill threads to help transfer heat to the body of the flashlight. Unfortunately, the heat-sink rings on the this light appear to be largely ornamental, as the pill still below that level, in the neck of the flashlight at the top of the battery tube.
Overall, this was a fun/stupid little mod but at least I have a mode memory on this flashlight now.
Thanks for posting! Seems these bare P60 pills are really useful for mods!
-Garry
Mine has still not arrived, may fire an email off late. 
See this post in the A60 thread for beamshot comparisons between my Dongrui All-920 and Jacob A60.
-Garry