DQG 18650 mini clicky

LED Flashlights – General Info 18650 Flashlights
56

If you mean the mini clicky, then I think people are not understanding how it is constructed. The led is mounted to the driver board. So you can’t just replace the driver.

This is the twisty, but I’m sure the clicky will be the same sort of thing.



That said, the host is too small to handle the heat from a Fet driver.

57
  • The battery compartment in the clicky has NO springs at all. Instead there’s a raised post at either end.
  • The tailcap has a foam donut surrounding its raised post. This keeps the battery from rattling when tailcap lockout is used.
  • the section of the tailcap shrouding the o-ring is VERY long and there are a lot of threads in the cap. This system is quite clever actually. No need for a spring because the entire light actually changes length when longer batteries are used. Because of the extra threads and long tailcap shroud a good watertight seal is maintained at all times. And because of the foam donut, tailcap lockout works with any size cell.
  • I haven’t opened up the head yet, but I expect that it is constructed very similar to the pictures in the previous post: A single board containing both the driver and LED mounted on the back of a platform in the reflector compartment.
  • I believe there should be room for thin driver mounted where the current driver is now. The LED could then be mounted in front of the reflector compartment platform. This setup should work with a triple emitter and optic because the Carclo triple TIR optic is much shorter than the stock single-emitter TIR.
  • The one unknown in this planned mod is the switch location. I suspect in the clicky, it’s actually mounted inside the reflector compartment next to the reflector. Unknown at this time if there will be room to both install a triple star and still have the switch.
58

Got the bezel off mine.

With the TIR optic removed, the circuit board is revealed with the LED in center surrounded by driver components. The switch is in its own recessed compartment in the head with 2 tiny wires connecting it to the driver.

I don’t see a shelf surrounding the driver so my guess is a completely hollow pill. Looks like there’s room inside to mod with a triple TIR optic, Noctigon, small copper heatsink, and a driver.

Unfortunately, I was defeated when trying to remove the head from the battery tube. They must’ve used a ton of threadlocker. Either that or it’s all one piece. But since I see a seem on the outside separating the head from the battery tube I think not.

My usual technique of wrapping each section in rubber indoor stairway grip tape then twisting with twin pliers failed to work. Might need to get a torch or hot air gun to see if I can melt the threadlocker.

59

Going to have to put the mod on hold for now.

The lens opening in the bezel is exactly 20mm wide. This means a 20mm Carclo triple TIR optic won’t fit as it will just fall through the opening. I need a 22mm lens to put in front of the optic to keep the whole thing together. Will have to hold the mod until a 22mm lens arrives as I don’t have any on-hand.

60

Thanks for the update! I cancelled my order. I decided the levels and UI don’t work for me, and I didn’t have the time or desire to mod it (for now). Besides, I have 2 Zebralights already (SC62D/W) so decided to skip it.

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see here for a coupon [NO COMMENTS OR DISCUSSIONS HERE!] The BLF Deal Alert Thread

Firelight, did you open the light? Do you have pictures of the driver?

62

That’s a good deal. Thanks for that.

63

My light from BG arrived today. It came in a little cardboard box with the clip, one spare O-ring and a instruction sheet which was just copied from the duqingang.com site.

I was a little disappointed as Firelight2 stated his light was noticeably shorter than his 1st gen. twisty version. Mine is the same length as the earlier twisty version with a 3400mAh protected cell installed. I do have to admit the UI is a little quirky but it’ll do. Like others have noted they could have made a much simpler UI. At least it works every time unlike the flawed twisty version.

It’s really strange how DQG can come out with these truly innovative, tiny lights but it seems like every time they introduce a new light, there’s always a lot of examples with something amiss like quirky or unreliable UI’s, sharp edges, O-ring eaters or what have you.

One thing I did notice is the tail cap threads are very fine. Even after applying liberal lube on them, (they came dry), if you’re not careful, they could easily be stripped when tightening the tail cap back down.

Some don’t care for them but I made a simple pocket sheath for it out of folded over lengthwise and sewn around the edges 1 7/8” nylon webbing/strap and with the clip pointing towards the activation button and when in the sheath, there’s now no way it can be accidentally turned on when in a pocket. The clip also acts as a reference point to the clicky when fumbling around in the dark.

All in all, it’s nice little light for the $27.00 I paid for it and a HUGE improvement over the earlier twisty versions.

64

Generally, the smallest flashlight is not the cheapest flashlight.

65

I was able to remove the bezel and have a picture of the front of the driver. I’ll try to get it posted tomorrow.

My attempts to separate the head from the body failed. Next to try would be more heat. If that doesn’t work the only solution left if I want to mod the light into a triple is probably to take a drill and smash the stock driver to bits.

66

I’ve been playing with mine for awhile. It always starts on low but my example is a little different.

First click: Low
2 Quick Clicks: Medium
2 More Quick Clicks: High
To access turbo, 1 long press when first on or 1 long press after high.

67

Actually it’s the following:

1 quick click from off: low
2 quick clicks from off: medium
3 quick clicks from off: high
2 quick clicks from on: advance to next mode (but not turbo).

Long click from on: jumps from whatever mode you are in to turbo.
Quick click from turbo: returns you to whatever mode you were in before entering turbo.
2 quick clicks from turbo: off

What I don’t like about the interface: Most used modes for me are max (turbo) and minimum. There’s no quick shortcut to turbo from off. To fix it all they would’ve needed to change is add another shortcut: long press from off to activate turbo. Unfortunately they didn’t do that.

68

Ah, I see. Thanks for that Firelight2.

My most used modes are low and high. I use turbo sparingly but it’s nice to have. Like you say, I can see where it would be handy to have instant access to turbo when needed.

69

I have no way to test this but does anyone know if there’s any parasitic drain in this switch? Thanks.

70

code works as of right now:

apparently intermittently as it’s not worked for everyone
just now it offers $24.92 to me when I try it
(xref from the deals thread)

71

I haven’t tested it, but it’s an e-switch. All e-switches have some parasitic drain.

If you want to disable parasitic drain you’ll need to use tailcap lockout.

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hank, $24.92 is still a great price.

Yeah, I figured as much. At least these have a low voltage signal by blinking when the battery needs recharging which is nice.

73

This version, e-switch parasitic drain would be around 1uA, I found this on the DQG Homepage Link
Quote:“Standby current around 1uA, if you still worry about it, simply loosen tail cap around 1/4 turn to cut off electric connection of battery.”

74

Thanks for that but what exactly is 1uA?

75

1uA=0.001mA

If we use 3400mAh 18650 battery as power source, “in theory” we can standby for 3400*1000/24=141,666.6666666667 Days! But in real life battery will suffer from “Self Discharge” and the discharge characteristic of low amperage then we cannot achieved that value. :bigsmile: