You can add a couple 7135s but you will have to solder the driver. East 092 has low profile so the ring can be screwed. The driver you mention is more fat, so you can’t use the ring. The diameter is the same.
I got mine w/7135 driver over 4 amps (3.04A KD V2 w/3 350's I believe), brass pill & copper discs added. Takes some metal work with a dremel, but not too difficult. FancyFlashlights and FastTech sell the brass pills I used.
Yes! Those are the pills - I've used a bunch of those in various mods - including the Poppas 26650 zoom you got, and I bought, but wound up being a replacement model w/hollow pill. I got those rings too but don't think they would help here because they are for reducing. Not sure how kramer worked out the battery length issue with raising the driver that way - I got the pill more embedded into the stock alum pill so it came out at the same height as the stock position, but had to dremel out some of the original pill. Had extra space that I filled w/copper discs ala O-L , so it has great heat mgt, in theory anyway...
Oh! Sorry, I would give TMART a couple of days to get back to you. Give us a description of the problem - maybe we can walk you through something. I have a spare East-092 driver somewhere, I know. I believe that driver is just pressed into place, so you need something pointy and somewhat strong to leverage it out without damaging it. Not sure if you can/could solder, but probably won't help removing it unless something obvious - loose wire, blown part, etc., but that's not common. Not sure where you are (USA, etc.), but I would certainly could fix it if I had it in my hands. Did you eliminate the switch yet? You do that by unsrewing the tailcap, leaving the battery in, ground the battery neg. end to the threads on the light body with a jumper wire.
Thanks for the concern, Tom E! Very sorry to hijack your thread, elnino.
I’m not in USA so it’s not possible to send it over.
I managed to screw this thing out, tested for continuity with multimeter on the two metal wires on the black “CREE XML” plate, and it cannot conduct, so I suspect the driver (which is hidden inside) is damaged, but I’m not very sure.
But I couldn’t take the East-092 driver out. Perhaps I try with a flat-end screwdriver to leverage it out?
However if there’s a already-assembled working pill like this to purchase, it’ll be great!! I just need to unscrew this pill and replace it with a new one. Save the trouble sending it back to Tmart, or waiting for replacement, or any modding trouble (I don’t know how to).
If you have a simple test wire, try this with the pill out: put the battery + end (18650) on the driver spring, one end of the wire on the neg end and the other end of the wire on the outside of the pill - see if you get any light. If you do, test the modes, if all works, the pill is ok. If no light, then probably the driver but could be the emitter/star.
I think what you are trying to test for continuity won't show continuity normally - those are the +/- leads for the emitter - the CREE XML plate is the "star" or also called the emitter MCPCB.
No online retailers would sell the pill, and probably hard to find someone here. Only situation would be if the host (body) of an HD2010 was trashed and only remaining part was the pill someone was stuck with.
For removing the driver, I'm assuming you are unscrewing the retainer ring (use needlenose pliers), then trying to pry up the board?
radiancez try the light without the reflector installed, it might be pressed down to hard and short the two metal wires on the LED.
Also don’t think there should be continuity when measuring like you did.
A diode (an LED is still a diode, right?) by definition only passes current one way, so a continuity test should only work one direction. However, you may have to unsolder one of the wires to remove the LED out of the driver circuit to truly test continuity. In other words, it could be possible to test continuity one direction, think it's bad, but it really is ok.
My HD2010 is still dead (awaiting a mod). It just quit working on me one day. I never did figure out the issue with mine.
Amazingly my light came alive when I thought it’s gone! Without the reflector the light became a very nice uniform flooder. Then I slowly place back the reflector, and the lens, then lens cap and screw it less tightly. Now it works like before! Really didn’t expect the fix to be so simple. I’ll wait till tomorrow and try again and see if it still works!
And to all others, thank you very much for your prompt assistance! I got my HD2010 ‘back’! Totally made my day.
Ok, well you need to place some sort of insulator between the reflector and the LED (find some thin plastic and cut into a "donut" shape to go around the emitter).
Yes, but my HD2010 died immediately after I created an insulator! Really @$%ed me off! I was so careful to hardly use the light before I got an insulator in place and it died anyway!