Anyone with the NW version have any idea what the current is on Turbo mode? According to Ric's website, "CW version has higher current than NW version" Also, does anyone know why there is a "current" difference between the CW and NW, is this how the NW color temp is acheived? Thanks.
Well aside from the extended shipping, poor communication, and chipped lens my Dry is absolutely ridiculous. Ric has told me that he will be sending me a lens so that is cool. This light is crazy, I have a UF 980l and it is badass, but this thing blows it out of the water. Last night I got to use it in a very large rather dark field and I was blown away. I don't even know why i need a light like this but I am sure glad I have it.
I might actually have it today or tomorrow!!! 
YOUR LABEL NUMBER
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SERVICE
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STATUS OF YOUR ITEM
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DATE & TIME
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LOCATION
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FEATURES
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Arrival at Unit |
February 23, 2012, 6:52 am |
READING, PA 19612 |
Registered Mail™ |
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Processed Through Sort Facility |
February 09, 2012, 6:26 am |
ISC NEW YORK NY(USPS) |
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Processed Through Sort Facility |
February 08, 2012, 8:05 am |
HONG KONG, HONG KONG |
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Origin Post is Preparing Shipment |
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Acceptance |
February 03, 2012, 4:54 pm |
HONG KONG |
WOW Johnny! That's fantastic! It took long enough!
Sure did. 
I was hoping it would show today since you said that you received yours the same day the status showed it left ICS. Mail came and went today and no package for Johnny.
It arrived this morning and it's great! No flaws in the body finish or the machining. Works fantastically except for one thing.
Did anybody elses DRY come with a blotchy film on the lens that won't clean off? I removed the lens and cleaned it with a microfiber cloth, with a special glass cleaner...nothing takes this weird film off the lens. I will have to replace it with a different lens. Does anyone have a good source for one?
I have the CW version, I think my Skyray 3800 may be an overperformer however. It starts at around 3A draw from 4.2v and goes up to 4.5A+ as they drop below 3.7v. This is with good quality Xtar 2600s, so relatively low voltage drop under load. The Skyray subjectively throws as far as the DRY on turbo and is almost the same in overall output. I measured >1800 for the Skyray and 2400 dropping quickly to <2200 for the DRY, this difference is of course hardly noticable in real use however.
Anyway, my DRY died a couple of days after I got it, the driver just blew for some reason and would only do one mode, no PWM but quick dropping output. Then the heat from using this mode melted the solder connection on the driver board to the negative wire, it must've been bypassing something.. Anyway Ric as always was very helpful and immediately shipped out another replacement driver, I'm still waiting on that though.
Hey folks...wasn't the DRY originally $75.00 + Shipping? I was just poking around Ric's website and noticed it was $69.00 + shipping. I may grab one at that price.
Most SR3800s have output in the 1600 lumens OTF range, maybe yours is driven slightly higher.
The DRY drops about 7% in output in 3 mins Turbo run (not advisable to run past 1 min unless you are in sub-zero but for me i have no qualms in running that long as i have quite a few drivers). Just use your hands, if it's getting close to too hot for comfort, switch it off. This also applies to high mode actually, you don't run that for 10 mins obviously. It's both LED emitter junction and driver related, there is a temperature delta between the host external surfaces and the driver components, MCPCB/diode junction.
BTW, the XTAR 2600s really sag quite a bit, not sure why. They sag more than the Trustfire Flames 2400, actually the Flames are pretty good. You can see this on a hobby charger in discharge mode by checking out the voltage when doing from 4.20V down and look at it for 5 minutes.
They do have the capacity though.... Do check the current at the tail, but seriously 3.5A is good enough in reality. The Sanyos 2600s have the capacity to burn your LEDs if you are not careful (eg strobe esp), they are even of lower resistance than the Panasonic NCR18650A / 3100mAh...that means more current capability those Eagletac/AWs etc at least for the top part of the discharge curve. Be careful for those folks who ordered the red Sanyos .
This does not mean the XTARs are bad though. Just a characteristic of it.... so you'd get higher readings in lights like TR-J12 with 2 cells (high current). For regular XM-Ls/XP-Gs they are very good.
http://www.youtube.com/embed/a-9lONjV46w
Somebody asked it before...i think it was you coz i replied. LOL!
It has a low that makes a Zebralight SC600 / SWM V10A 0.01 lumens look like sun light. Just have to use 2 cells that are somewhat discharged. :D
Low.
LOWEST!
wow 700 posts
No low voltage protection.
i only use unprotected 18650s and get just over 4a on them.
the light gets noticeably dim and the spacing between mode brightness gets really close.
i added a stiffer spring on the battery carrier and added solder to all the carrier joints.
it probably needs a stiffer tailcap spring also to prevent mode changes when jugged hard.
Can I still get one??
The group buy is long over, but you can still go to the website and order one.
I just got my DRY today!! I wasn't part of the group buy, but I able to buy it with the BLF discount. Shipped on the 19th of Feb and received today (29th). This thing is incredibly bright! Ric even thew in an extra clicky, o-ring, clicky cover, and lanyard. Awesome. :beer:
Nice...I just ordered mine last night in NW. Thought I'd take advantage of the price reduction.
Nice! You’ll be glad you bought it, it’s an awesome light!! You got some nice extras included too. Sure hope I never need them for mine. 
What is the BLF discount?
If anyone wants a DRY fast within the US I want to sell mine. Got it yesterday, tested it (LOVE it but need the money for another monster, haahaha), greased it and decided that "trying it out" is worth more then keeping it.
li am interest let me know