Guess I forgot to post my driver experience in this thread.
“East-092 N06 driver … Crappy driver works, check (pulled 1.5A at the LED side with whatever crappy cell was available) … I don’t know if there was a contact problem or the IMR test cell I was using was very low on charge, but the almost full charge Sony IMR is doing 2.88A at the tail.”
Hi,
Thanks for posting that. I remember seeing that thread (the cheese and rice stuck in my brain :laughing:, but didn’t realize that was with an FT EAST-092 driver.
When you tested with the Sony IMR, what kind of leads did you have on your meter?
Just happens that I was testing my HD2010 with a PD battery, and was getting 2.7+ amps at the tail, so I made some new leads with some 18AWG wire I had, and then measured 4+ amps at the tail, using a clampmeter around one of the leads (used the 18AWG leads to connect the battery to the battery - and to the body, and had clampmeter around one of the leads), so I’m curious if you were testing with heavy leads.
“- Make new 10 gauge leads for the cheap meter, check.”
EDIT: With alligator clips that could be adding some resistance. I can tell you it looks nothing like I think a 4A XPG2 would look. I wasn’t even all that impressed vs. the SF low voltage XPG drop-in I used for comparison.
EDIT 2: I still haven’t taken it outside to really give it a good look. It is warmer than my XPG.
I just retested with a different fresh IMR cell and at first turn it briefly got up to 3.24A (vs ~1.8A with stock leads). Settled into about 3.1xA and when a bit heat soaked came down to 2.9x.
It’s on pretty thin alum star with AS paste so won’t run it that way for very long. Perhaps on copper with copper braiding and a better IMR (mine are Dyson vac battery pulls) the N06 can do better.
Disappointing :(… Not doubting what he reported, but wondering why the ones that Hyprmtr got performed better :(?
Since the inventory may be mixed he might have gotten N03s off the top of the bin and I got one lower down that was older?
Or, his larger cell and LED might do better in a test bed than what I’m reading?
All of my new numbers are tail reading including body resistance since I soldered it all together after the first 1.5A meter reading on the LED side of the driver with the same type of IMR but needing to be recharged (@ 3.75v IIRC). If I had gotten a good reading, I would have used the driver in a different placement.
EDIT: Comfy’s reading seem close to mine (he has the N06)
I don’t know if it makes a difference (or what the difference would be) functionally, but the MOSFET that moviles mentioned at East-92 4amp 17mm driver appears to have a regular diode between drain and source, whereas the ones in the 3 PDFs have zener diodes.
This driver came in the mail from fastech today:
5.3A with a sanyo cell, I think that's good.
So they're selling 3 (or more than 3?) different drivers under the same SKU, nice...
So isn’t this telling us that it’s not just the MOSFET (or the number on the MOSFET) that is making the difference?
What I mean by that is that maybe:
- It’s not the MOSFET that makes the difference, or
If it’s not the MOSFET, then what else could make the difference?
EDIT: Maybe it’s the MCU/programming?
Comfy said that on one of the ones he got, the current was low when in high mode, but when he measured in SOS, it was like 2.45 amps.
I seem to recall that that was one of the complaints with the “bad” EAST-092 drivers in the HD2010s when they came out, that it drove more current in the blinky modes than in the high mode.
Based on what? It's a different part with lower Rds(on) than the ones used on the drivers with crappy output.
Mine with the really low output is an EAST-092B, the version that started this whole mess in the first place. The other one is... who knows. It's not the original DD version, and it's not the crappy 092B version. It's yet another not-as-advertised part.
Going back and re-reading posts, I may’ve gotten part #s mixed up (dyslexia :():
Post #96 - movile2 - “good mosfet t70n03” and “the t70n03 appears to be better than the DTU40n06” - Doesn’t say clearly that results with DTU40n06 were “bad”
Post #113 - comfy - bad (one on the right) - DTU40N06
Post #126 - viffer - good - DTU06N03
So the one in viffer’s #126 is a different/new part # than the ones from earlier posts?
I was able to test a couple. The first one only did 1.2A. The second did 3.6A. I will have to get the MOSFET number when I get home. I have over 30 I still need to test. I just did not have time this weekend, we had some visitors over. I was showing off my crazy 12 XML2 lights. :bigsmile:
I just now got all my notifications. I guess the forum change automatically logged me out?
I do know that every order I got was a mix of different MOSFETs. One question I have is, can the low current drivers be repaired or should I just toss them?
Ken
No. Both mine are 'bad'. The one on the left is really awful bad (the 092B), does less than 1 amp. One on the right is better, but only 2.45A. Neither of them are what they're supposed to be.
edit: Remember, the same cell & LED used when testing the drivers did 3.80A without the drivers in the circuit.
I guess that the question in your last sentence/paragraph is still the question now.
I have two of the drivers from FT that should be getting here today, and 6 of the “t70n03” MOSFETs on their way from the Ebay seller, but the latter just left HK this weekend.
I think some others also ordered those MOSFETs, and comfy found some different MOSFETs.
I did notice the ones that have different MOSFETS also have different resistors too. So I dont know if changing the MOSFET only would work properly?
Ken
Side by side pics? Plus LED draw for each with known LED battery combo on direct drive was Comfy’s request.
Ken, I’ll pay for shipping of the bad ones if you are really end up wanting to toss them. Though my N06 is working, I tore it up pretty badly during soldering into the pill, so I could use them for practice (they will end up as gifts to others). Even better if you’ll let me reimburse you to add a good one (if you can spare it).
I will take some pics this evening. I believe I have 3 different MOSFET drivers. Maybe even 4 different ones. Lol. After I test all of them I will see what drivers I dont want. Send me a private message so I can remember that you want them.
Ken
When you do post pics, can you make sure that you note which drivers are “good” vs. “bad”?
Thanks,
Jim
I think I noticed different resistors on some of the pics also. Again, right now, we (or I) are going on the hypothesis that it’s the MOSFET that makes the difference, but that hypothesis is still to be proven.
It’d be nice if someone who had a “bad” driver was able to swap just the MOSFET with a “good” MOSFET (or any other compatible, identifiable MOSFET) and that made the driver into a “good” driver…
Or, conversely, if someone had a “good” driver with one of the “bad” MOSFETs, that would controvert the “It’s just the MOSFET” theory.
FYI, I’ve been PM’ing with another member who doesn’t think it’s JUST the MOSFET, but that’s also unproven.
EDIT: I keep thinking/wondering if we might be dealing with counterfeit MOSFETs, i.e., maybe some of the MOSFETs are marked as ‘xxxx’, but are really not what they’re marked as?
Yes, the driver I tested Saturday that was bad, is in my spare parts pile. Haha. I will label the good and the bad. I belive I have some in between too.
Ken