Emisar D3AA driver technical information

[jon_slider]

To use Turbo on the D3AA, the Vapcel H10 is a great choice!

The Emisar D3AA can draw a maximum of 5.5A
The Vapcel H10 has a CDR of 10A

[ebastler (Moritz)]

@jerv

Mooch

Mooch is the hero we need but not the hero we deserve. Incredibly useful and helpful tests.

[CRC2]

“That depends on whether you consider a ~$5 battery…”
Where I am, cells are no less than $30 each.

Its hopeless.
I have abandon all hope that I can do any of this.
Ive given up.

@jerv

I emphasize “weighted” for two main reasons. One is that when a couple of randos say something that contradicts what dozens of others say, you have to go with the weight of evidence.

The people in my pics are very trusted people in the community. I just blocked who they were cause it felt wrong to show.

[jerv]

@CRC2

Where I am, cells are no less than $30 each.

There’s a difference between buying them every 2-3 weeks and 2-3 years though. And with a little care, they last longer. Even the Acebeam 14500 with USB that runs a lot closer to the prices you pay for bare Li-ion cells pays for itself in about a month. Battery to spend $10-15/year on a battery than $10/week, even when the former option required pre-paying for next year and the year after.

And yes, even those with knowledge often disagree. That’s another reason I said “weighted”.

[editor]

5C momentary mode is something I like. What is the reason you’d like it removed?

[ebastler (Moritz)]

On my Anduril lights I get stuck on it by accident more than once. In the case of the FWAA I can’t even quickly losen the tailcap to get out, I have to completely unscrew the head and then screw it on again to get back out (although that is due to lumintops design, and not Andurils fault )…

[editor]

Well, now I understand. My fingers had problems clicking the desired amount of clicks in the first days of using Anduril 2. I use it heavily and it doesn’t happen any more. And that Reset 5C is much easier on D3AA than on FWAA, so I don’t see the reason of eliminating it.

[ebastler (Moritz)]

On D3AA you only need to losen the tailcap a little, right? That’s a lot easier indeed.

[editor]

Yes, on aluminum D3AA it only takes kind of half a turn. Don’t know titanium or copper though. These may have contact until you take cap off or unscrew enough.

[kotarak (Andrey)]

Hi, would like to ask if the schematics for the D3AA publicly available?

I am trying to repair a driver that behaves very oddly and replaced the AVR chip - the symptoms were pointing to MCU problems but still having exactly the same issues with the new MCU in place. Beyond that it is difficult to proceed without schematics.