To use Turbo on the D3AA, the Vapcel H10 is a great choice! 
The Emisar D3AA can draw a maximum of 5.5A
The Vapcel H10 has a CDR of 10A
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Mooch is the hero we need but not the hero we deserve. Incredibly useful and helpful tests.
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âThat depends on whether you consider a ~$5 batteryâŚâ
Where I am, cells are no less than $30 each.
Its hopeless.
I have abandon all hope that I can do any of this.
Ive given up.
The people in my pics are very trusted people in the community. I just blocked who they were cause it felt wrong to show.
Thereâs a difference between buying them every 2-3 weeks and 2-3 years though. And with a little care, they last longer. Even the Acebeam 14500 with USB that runs a lot closer to the prices you pay for bare Li-ion cells pays for itself in about a month. Battery to spend $10-15/year on a battery than $10/week, even when the former option required pre-paying for next year and the year after.
And yes, even those with knowledge often disagree. Thatâs another reason I said âweightedâ.
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5C momentary mode is something I like. What is the reason youâd like it removed?
On my Anduril lights I get stuck on it by accident more than once. In the case of the FWAA I canât even quickly losen the tailcap to get out, I have to completely unscrew the head and then screw it on again to get back out (although that is due to lumintops design, and not Andurils fault 
)âŚ
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Well, now I understand. My fingers had problems clicking the desired amount of clicks in the first days of using Anduril 2. I use it heavily and it doesnât happen any more. And that Reset 5C is much easier on D3AA than on FWAA, so I donât see the reason of eliminating it.
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On D3AA you only need to losen the tailcap a little, right? Thatâs a lot easier indeed.
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Yes, on aluminum D3AA it only takes kind of half a turn. Donât know titanium or copper though. These may have contact until you take cap off or unscrew enough.
Hi, would like to ask if the schematics for the D3AA publicly available?
I am trying to repair a driver that behaves very oddly and replaced the AVR chip - the symptoms were pointing to MCU problems but still having exactly the same issues with the new MCU in place. Beyond that it is difficult to proceed without schematics.
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Hi, technical question for me.
with SFT25R at 150 what is the amount of current thru the battery? It reach more than 4 Amps?
Would it be feasible to replace the lit switch with RGB, then wire the aux to it and swap the triple to a single and get rid of the aux emitters for a throwy d3aa?
RGB switch probably, I assume the RGB switch PCB fits in there.
If you replace the triple LEDs with single then it needs to a be a 6V LED and youâll need to drill holes for the wires.
Then optionally you can increase the current to 3A to get back to ~18W output (6VĂ3A) as I described in this comment: https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/s/Vj6APEcJeW
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What optics are you gonna use ?
Carclo 105xx is only 6mm high. To put a single emitter throwy optics you need to elongate the head/bezel somehow.
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No idea yetâŚjust theorycrafting lolâŚ
Would there be a way to reduce the voltage requirements as to run a single 519A or sft?
Not possible, the driver can only boost.
Could it boost up to 12V maybe so they could use a XHP35(.2) HI?
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Yes but the FB voltage divider must be modified, also the efficiency will decrease especially on AA. SFT70 is a better option, the LES is not much larger, 6.5mm² vs 5.9mm², probably higher efficacy too which will help compensate the larger LES in intensity.
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The 6V alternative for 519A is the always ignored 719A.
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