Yes, it will work.
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thanks, that made me smile… I must be pretty deep down the rabbit hole… lol
other new info (trivia)
Weight: (thanks to SiteRelEnby)
TS10v2 Al: 29 g
D3: 41.5 g
the D3AA weighs 12.5 gm (the weight of two USA nickels plus a penny), more than the TS10, empty.
that translates to making the D3AA carry weight w battery, 24% heavier than the TS10… (<1/2 oz heavier… lol… first world problems)
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Has anyone tried out various pocket clips on their d3aa yet to see what fits?
I’m really not a fan of Hanks clips.
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For the AVR32DD20, what’s the voltage used to drive the AUX LEDs?
I’m thinking about swapping the AUX LEDs for different colours.
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The AUX voltage (VCC) has no relation to the MCU used, on this driver it’s 4.1V.
Got it. Thank you.
I hope you enjoy the change
Note there are a couple of (minor) unintended consequences of Non RGB Aux.
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Police Strobe wont be Red and Blue. Not important to me, I dont use Police Strobe (impersonating police colors while in a vehicle is illegal in USA, although not illegal as a pedestrian). Using the Aux as Police strobe, is too dim to be useful for me, when I am a pedestrian in a crosswalk during the day. I use normal white LED strobe to help cars notice me when Im crossing the street, both day and night.
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Aux Voltage display wont use correct colors. Not important to me, I disable Post-Off Voltage Display anyway, and I do not use the constant on, Aux Voltage colors option either.
I don’t care about the police strobe either and the AUX LED voltage display isn’t a must for me.
I saw a photo of the AUX board that Hank has used in the D3AA (second photo here) and I think the lume Tri-LED AUX board will fit, if the retaining screw is removed. It’s hard to be sure from a photo, though, so hopefully my D3AA will arrive in the next few days and I can have a look for real. I’ll only be able to check for sure when my batch of Tri-LED boards comes in from OSHPark some time soon.
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PSA, flat tops in a D3AA come close to touching some components, due to a short positive contact post… info courtesy of:
“the brass button used for the positive contact is pretty short and almost flush with some of the driver components, a flat top H10 gets pretty close to touching and if the top got dented at all it would touch”
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Looks like it would be easy for the wrapper to get caught by the components.
I’d recommend to apply liquid electric tape to surounding components for this reason.
I did it on a few drivers without removing them.
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thank you
I like the option to use a “potting compound” on the driver… potentially brings it up to Zebralight level of drop resistance…
does liquid tape have good thermal properties for a flashlight potting application?
Flash Point, SCC: 60F
Temperature Range -65 to 400F
how can it have a 400F temperature range but a flashpoint of just 60F? Is it the difference between the fresh and dry product?
is there any other product that might be better suited?
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If i remember correctly flash point is when a fuel starts giving off vapor that ignites on contact with flames. So if you set petrol on fire for example its actually the gases it gives off that ignite first so at 60F(15c for me) it could be ignited with fire. I dont usually put matches in my flashlights so that shouldnt be a problem /s
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thanks for explaining. I have had no problem from a flashlight that used liquid tape to insulate the refector base, so it would not short to the solder blobs on the mcpcb… From that I have confidence that fire is not an issue, even though the light got hotter than 15C, after the tape was fully dried and any volatile solvent had evaporated.
matches also get much hotter than 15C, so I will avoid putting matches against liquid tape, especially when it is fresh out of the container.
thanks for your thoughts 
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Within 7.2mm diameter of a H10 flat top, there is no component that would produce a short if a dented positive flat top were to touch it. But if the cell is dented enough, maybe the tallest ones could be crushed.
But I don’t think if it’s possible to dent it enough for that to happen considering the size of the button (4mm) relative to the size of the flat top and its thickness, that said adding 0.5mm to the button would probably have been a good idea.
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that is encouraging, thanks for your thoughts
I personally dont plan to use H10, I actually intend to use a USB battery:
Im still waiting to order a D3AA, until jlhawaii808 has them in stock, as he offers the new FFL351a that Im interested in trying.
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Thank you! I feel much better now.
H10 flats are my vast majority, and I was starting to think about picking up some liquid tape.
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D3AA new MCU flashes soooo fast that I don’t have to take breath for so long 
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