You’re talking the subreddit I have three threads open in other tabs and am commenting in right now in those other tabs? The one I spend quite a bit of time each day in?
I’m pretty sure I know what the problem is though. And it’s not a technical issue with the site, if you catch my drift. I’m just wondering if others have earned the same distinction I have or it is something unique to me. Normally the answer would be clear, but sometimes it’s hard to tell
Never had any issues like Yours, hope it resolves quickly for You 
Strange. I haven’t seen that happen on reddit. I don’t know what is going on. Have you tried accessing old.reddit.com instead?
It will be the same on all versions. That’s how it looks like when you are blocked.
Yeah same for me. It’s deleted if I log in on my account, but in incognito it’s viewable. What does that mean? That user has blocked me or something?
I googled it and supposedly this is the case. If a user has blocked you - you see all their content as ‘unavailable’. Must have touched a nerve sometime in the past with this user 
I wonder what it was as I don’t even recall their username
Edit: I went back through my reddit history and I figured out where it might have happened. Talk about having a thin skin 
What are the default ramp settings that the D3AA comes with? Thank you
Yup. Like I said, not a technical issue.
Yup. And there’s a reason why I had doubts I was unique in this regard. Seems my suspicions were correct. It’s a pity that someone with a decent level of knowledge would seek to go that far and deprive folks of their research for minor reasons.
As an aside, one thing I love about the old.Reddit+RES combo is that there is a button to ignore users by minimizing their comments without a full-on “nuclear option” block that leads to this sort of situation.
The usual; floor at 20/150 with Turbo disabled in Simple UI, floor of 1/150 with Turbo enabled in Advanced, and ceiling at 120/150 for both.
The Five stepped modes in Simple UI, on my meter with my LEDs, using a LiIon battery, measure
0.1
11
80
295
674 lumens
or you can use AA batteries, or Eneloop AA:
0.1
11
80
295
390 lumens
or you can switch to smooth ramping and ramp up or down to any output between floor and ceiling.
plus you can switch to advanced mode, which adds Turbo, and uses 7 stepped modes, or you can switch to smooth ramping and access any output.
Hi. What’s the normal standby current drain of the D3aa? In don’t have a way to measure but I’ve since turned the aux off as I’m noticing I needed to recharge it much sooner than my TS10s.
Another thing is that I use my small lights in candle mode at night at the lowest brightness. My TS10s, I can use for a little over a week before needing a recharge. The same battery in a d3aa needs to be charged on the 3rd day. Was wondering if mine has an abnormally high parasitic drain?
Maybe use battery check, on both lights, to compare battery voltage change per day(s)?
Just measured mine. Aux lights on low = 0.4ma or 104 days. Aux lights off = 0.03ma or 1388 days. This is based on a 1000mah battery.
An H10 vapcell, 4.1+V thu night and 4.0+V sat night. And t his is with the aux off.
Is there a good way to convert this into a voltage drop along the batt’s life for 104 days? I can only measure batt voltage and was wondering if mine’s within baseline?
if both the TS10 and the D3AA had the same amount of battery drain, with Aux off, then I dont think the D3AA has excessive parasitic drain
dont worry… enjoy your lights 
Technically yes, but it’s non-linear.
What that means is that the voltage drop between 100% and 80% is about the same as the voltage drop from 80% and 45%… except for those batteries where it’s 60-65%. Yes, the relationship between voltage and % charge is not the same for all batteries;
You need to know the characteristics of the battery to get an accurate guess.
That said, given the way voltage drops rapidly from 100%, the fact that the old versions of Anduril only measure with 0.1V resolution, and possible calibration, I am not surprised by a 0.1V drop over two days. In fact, I’d be mildly surprised if it didn’t drop that much.
The issue I think you may be running into is that once you drop below 100 mA output, the D3AA’s driver efficiency plummets;
I believe that the TS10’s FET+1 driver is a lot more efficient below 100 mA than that; someone with more detailed knowledge correct me if I’m wrong. Without knowing a few things like how low the “lowest setting” you’re running at is, I can’t say for sure, but I can take an educated guess.
Regardless, I don’t think it’s abnormal, merely a difference between the two lights.
Do we know if Anduril rounds the voltage up or down or does it just report to one decimal place, ie would it report 4.09v as 4.1 (rounded up) or 4.0v?
That’s a question for TK or one of her acolytes. But considering how few calibrate the voltage anyways, I question the relevance unless all parties involved are truly compulsive.
Precision to two or more decimal places requires a certain degree of attentiveness that many lack. Newer versions of Anduril allow resolution down to 0.02 volts and show that second decimal place, but lets be honest; that’s a pretty deep dive for those who are not super-serious about the hobby. I would ask how many people here calibrate the voltage on their Anduril lights, but I know that many of us here are a little more devoted to flashlights than the average person.
I have calibrated the voltage on one of mine, but to be honest I prefer to just set the aux lights to display voltage and consider green to mean it wants charging. If I want to know the actual voltage I’ll test it with a meter.
My thought was that dropping from 4.1 to 4.0 over two days might actually only be a drop from 4.10 to 4.09 depending on how it’s reported, however that would require a multimeter to test and the OP doesn’t have one.
