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tactical_grizzly · April 7, 2022, 5:05pm

W2’s draw an unusually high amount of current under FET drive from the standard driver. I’ve heard somewhere between 5 and 7 amps per emitter. By comparison, the boost driver will provide only two amps per emitter, so in the case of W2’s, output might be cut down by as much as 50%. The stock driver is definitely the way to go for the W2 configuration.

Marvin8 · April 7, 2022, 5:18pm

Thank you for your thoughtful and informative replies!

ArtieT59 · April 7, 2022, 5:20pm

I agree, I was going to say I hope that that is one of the changes for these lights that are getting the boost driver. One question I have for Hank is the boost driver redesigned at all, or is it the same exact design as K1/DM11.

FlashPilot · April 7, 2022, 5:52pm

Thanks, these are just ideas Im kicking around. Im considering using it to power a single 3V XHP50.2 emitter in a 4P 18650 host. I assume it will hypothetically deliver around 8A to a single 3V emitter. Id need to strip the huge stock 7135 based driver and “air wire” in Hanks boost driver. If heat became an issue, I could solder copper straps to the boost driver outer ring to dissipate heat to the host.

If Hanks driver isnt viable, would you know of another high efficiency budget boost driver that would work? Id like to see at least 5A to the emitter. Id much prefer to support Hank, Simon or another community member.

Lumen9000 · April 7, 2022, 6:21pm

FlashPilot:

tactical_grizzly:

FlashPilot:

Will this driver be available separately?

Not sure about D4SV2. The one for KR series will not fit into existing KR4’s according to this Reddit post.

“The boost driver does not work with the original KR4 host unless modified, since it needs more cavity in the head. It’s $18 per one.”

Thanks, these are just ideas Im kicking around. Im considering using it to power a single 3V XHP50.2 emitter in a 4P 18650 host. I assume it will hypothetically deliver around 8A to a single 3V emitter. Id need to strip the huge stock 7135 based driver and “air wire” in Hanks boost driver. If heat became an issue, I could solder copper straps to the boost driver outer ring to dissipate heat to the host.

If Hanks driver isnt viable, would you know of another high efficiency budget boost driver that would work? Id like to see at least 5A to the emitter. Id much prefer to support Hank, Simon or another community member.

I don’t believe that it’s going to work at all. Maybe have a better chance if you search after buck driver.

Hikelite · April 7, 2022, 6:25pm

It is a boost driver, it cannot deliver to 3V LEDs, the voltage output must be above voltage input, boost just means it boosts voltage.
The analogy that it is a 8A 3V driver which has been used by some before is actually misleading.

tocirahl · April 7, 2022, 6:40pm

You could, however, reflow a 12V XHP50.2 on there and use this driver to deliver 1.9 (1.8?) Amps to it. Would be the same brightness as delivering ~7A to a 3V XHP50.2

zak.wilson · April 7, 2022, 7:16pm

Is the angle light going to have a head that sticks out like the Lumintop HL3A and Fireflies PL47, or is it going to be a more uniform body like the big brands?

Mobiuscorpus · April 7, 2022, 7:32pm

Dammit… I guess I’ll be able to supply a side by side comparison soon enough, since I have a D4Sv2 with W2s, and I just ordered a D4Sv2 with the boost driver last night. Honestly, this might not be a bad thing for me anyway. Hot rod lights are fun, but it’s always bothered me that you can’t get max performance out of them for very long. What does one need in order to (hopefully cheaply) measure lumen output?

Marvin8 · April 7, 2022, 7:35pm

I would be most appreciated, Mobius.

tactical_grizzly · April 7, 2022, 7:46pm

Mobiuscorpus:

tactical_grizzly:

Marvin8:

I was referring to the W2 hotrod. If so, that sorta takes the hotrod aspect of it away and would be a tough decision for me. Thanks

W2’s draw an unusually high amount of current under FET drive from the standard driver. I’ve heard somewhere between 5 and 7 amps per emitter. By comparison, the boost driver will provide only two amps per emitter, so in the case of W2’s, output might be cut down by as much as 50%. The stock driver is definitely the way to go for the W2 configuration.

Dammit… I guess I’ll be able to supply a side by side comparison soon enough, since I have a D4Sv2 with W2s, and I just ordered a D4Sv2 with the boost driver last night. Honestly, this might not be a bad thing for me anyway. Hot rod lights are fun, but it’s always bothered me that you can’t get max performance out of them for very long. What does one need in order to (hopefully cheaply) measure lumen output?

You need a lumen tube or integrating sphere and something to calibrate it with. I bought a pre-build and pre-calibrated lumen tube from BLF user Texas Ace for around $200. Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube / Sphere No math skills needed - Several spheres still available

tocirahl · April 7, 2022, 7:46pm

Mobiuscorpus:

tactical_grizzly:

Marvin8:

I was referring to the W2 hotrod. If so, that sorta takes the hotrod aspect of it away and would be a tough decision for me. Thanks

W2’s draw an unusually high amount of current under FET drive from the standard driver. I’ve heard somewhere between 5 and 7 amps per emitter. By comparison, the boost driver will provide only two amps per emitter, so in the case of W2’s, output might be cut down by as much as 50%. The stock driver is definitely the way to go for the W2 configuration.

Dammit… I guess I’ll be able to supply a side by side comparison soon enough, since I have a D4Sv2 with W2s, and I just ordered a D4Sv2 with the boost driver last night. Honestly, this might not be a bad thing for me anyway. Hot rod lights are fun, but it’s always bothered me that you can’t get max performance out of them for very long. What does one need in order to (hopefully cheaply) measure lumen output?

Measuring the lux with a ceiling bounce test would get you close enough to the relative brightness difference between the two configs and wouldn’t cost anything as long as you have a smartphone with a light sensor.

Mobiuscorpus · April 7, 2022, 8:42pm

tocirahl:

Mobiuscorpus:

tactical_grizzly:

Marvin8:

I was referring to the W2 hotrod. If so, that sorta takes the hotrod aspect of it away and would be a tough decision for me. Thanks

W2’s draw an unusually high amount of current under FET drive from the standard driver. I’ve heard somewhere between 5 and 7 amps per emitter. By comparison, the boost driver will provide only two amps per emitter, so in the case of W2’s, output might be cut down by as much as 50%. The stock driver is definitely the way to go for the W2 configuration.

Dammit… I guess I’ll be able to supply a side by side comparison soon enough, since I have a D4Sv2 with W2s, and I just ordered a D4Sv2 with the boost driver last night. Honestly, this might not be a bad thing for me anyway. Hot rod lights are fun, but it’s always bothered me that you can’t get max performance out of them for very long. What does one need in order to (hopefully cheaply) measure lumen output?

Measuring the lux with a ceiling bounce test would get you close enough to the relative brightness difference between the two configs and wouldn’t cost anything as long as you have a smartphone with a light sensor.

Is there an IPhone app for that? Assuming an iPhone 12 has the required sensor? I see there is an android Ceilingbounce app.

tocirahl · April 7, 2022, 8:43pm

Maybe something like this?

The Best Light Meter Apps in 2023 (7 Picks).

Mobiuscorpus · April 7, 2022, 8:49pm

Fantastic, thanks! I’ll definitely download one of these and use it to get some relative comparisons between my two D4Sv2s when the new one arrives.

zak.wilson · April 7, 2022, 8:58pm

There is not. Apple doesn’t let apps that use the relevant API into its store, and there aren’t enough people running jailbroken iPhones to bother.

Koronis · April 7, 2022, 9:02pm

There are a few iPhone apps that use the camera to measure lux, not very accurate, but still useful for doing comparisons

NewGuy420 · April 7, 2022, 9:11pm

Question for all about the new Noctigon DM1.12 I know its channel switching but has anyone tried flashing it with tint ramp if so does it work I’m very interested in answering this query
thanks

tactical_grizzly · April 7, 2022, 9:34pm

This guy on Reddit did it. He chose to use the K9.3-tintramp-nofet hex though which is not ideal, because it disabled FET drive for the flood LED’s.

The reason he chose the NOFET version, is that the fet-enabled version will only allow the flood channel to be on above level 130. The best course of action is to use the K9.3-tintramp firmware that uses get, then set ramp ceiling to level 130. That will allow you to tint ramp up to the highest level possible (130) and you’ll still have access to FET turbo on the flood channel when you want it.

ArtieT59 · April 7, 2022, 10:23pm

tactical_grizzly:

NewGuy420:

Question for all about the new Noctigon DM1.12 I know its channel switching but has anyone tried flashing it with tint ramp if so does it work I’m very interested in answering this query thanks

“This guy on Reddit did it.”:https://www.reddit.com/r/Hanklights/comments/tr67r0/dm112_w1219b_mix_using/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share He chose to use the K9.3-tintramp-nofet hex though which is not ideal, because it disabled FET drive for the flood LED’s. The reason he chose the NOFET version, is that the fet-enabled version will only allow the flood channel to be on above level 130. The best course of action is to use the K9.3-tintramp firmware that uses get, then set ramp ceiling to level 130. That will allow you to tint ramp up to the highest level possible (130) and you’ll still have access to FET turbo on the flood channel when you want it.

Sorry, the whole tint ramp / channel switch stuff still confuses me. Would you do this so that you would be able to tint ramp AND channel switch on the DM1.12? Thanks!