Please PM please, and thanks!
I am not sure what you are trying to suggest. Both hyphen and non-hyphen labeling formats are valid, and they are indeed referring to the same Ingress Protection standard. You could find articles on this topic, being published online since 2009. However, I cannot deny that HR20 construction is most probably not IPX8/ IPX-8 rated based on your findings. I will contact Imalent to see what they are going to say about this, but based on my previous experiences, do not expect them to do much about it.
I advise HR20 owners to keep your headlamp away from heavy rain or submerge them into water.
I am “suggesting” nothing other than what I wrote. I hope that clears that up. 
You omitted the “reference” to what I quoted about the ‘hyphen’ in an IP code…. I have re-quoted and shown it. That was the first time I had ever read that and found it enlightening in general…. not just about this matter.
And to be crystal clear, I do not expect Imalent to do anything about this, and never said I did.
I have enough common sense, now that I have seen the construction of this Rotary Switch; to not expose it to much more than a very brief mist of rain.
There may very well be some people who read this, whose Switch Cap does not come off; totally unaware of the probable outcome of exposing this light to any submersion & or unshielded rain.
Hopefully this will call attention to that and save some lights as well as hurt feelings.
As I have posted from the very beginning…… “I Like This Light & Am Pleased With It”…… :+1:
Does that make it perfect??? Nope.
But we were told all that up front and given the choice to proceed or not. I chose to proceed and I am glad I did.
But as we find out more things about this light (good or bad) they should be shared so those that follow behind us can make an informed decision based on all available information at the time.
Thanks Teacher. I did what you did, and pulled my end cap off too. Then I unscrewed the board, pulled the board out just enough to remove the screw that holds down the rotary dial, lifted the dial so I could add some lube under it, screwed the dial back on, screwed the board back on, put some lube on the inside of the dial where it might rub on the outside of the end cap, and put the cap back on. My rotary dial is still sticky. 
So now I have a light with a sticky dial, which also gets lube all over my thumb, and the cap can come off easily.
I’ve retired this light. $27 got me a battery and a decent head strap. I’m not complaining though since we were all warned about this being a beta, and it was cheap. I think the idea behind this light is great, but it needs some mechanical design tweaks.
Oh, about the flickering: as someone else mentioned, it’s not an infinitely adjustable output; there are just many discrete output levels. When you rotate the dial slowly you can see the steps. So I think the flickering some of us are seeing is just the light switching back and forth rapidly between two output levels. Turning the dial slightly in one direction or the other “centers” the output on one output level and the flickering stops. Not sure, but that’s how it seems to me.
That is some good info ‘peteybaby’, you went further than I did.
I was still thinking about lifting the board on mine to see how the dial was attached, but have not done it yet because the dials on both of mine happen to be smooth as can be. But from the way you describe it, I can picture it perfectly… so no need.
Sorry that did not help yours.
My “cap” just came off on it’s own… :person_facepalming: . How did you get your off? Was it hard? (probably not…??..)
Anyway, good post man………. :+1:
Yeah if yours are operating well, don’t touch them! Hopefully the caps will stay on for you.
My cap was wiggly with the usb cable connected, so I wiggled it harder, and simultaneously pulled up on the rubber usb connector cover, and it popped off.
Yeah that is about what I have decided…leave well enough alone. I am gonna put a tiny dot of silicon caulk on the inside of the cap on the silver spacer, where it fits around the two board screws; press it back on and let it dry. That should hold it on better than it came to begin with.
That makes sense, I did not figure it would be very hard to remove on purpose. 
Take care my friend……………
I´m also interested in this headlight. 
Therefore, please pm me the coupon and price.
Thank you in advance
AdAm0
Well ‘peteybaby’, I did indeed leave my board in place since my switch was working just fine. BUT, I think I have secured the ‘Cap’ so it will be staying in place without fail.
I was caulking around a shower in the house with some GE 100% Silicon and got to thinking………. :student:
So, looking at the picture below; I got a toothpick and spread a small amount of caulk at the junction where the outside of the silver spacer meets the inside of the ‘Cap’. I put a little extra on the indention’s on the far left and right where the ‘Cap’ goes around the two board securing screws.
I then lined it up correctly and put it back on, turned it upside down on the table and pushed hard to seat it and let it dry. I don’t think it will be coming off anytime soon.
Oh yeah, I put some clear glue over those two little plastic “lens” things the charging LED lights show up through. One of them was falling out and the other was loose. They are both there to stay now.
IF anyone were to try this, it is “imperative” that any sealant you use stay inside the ‘Cap’. Otherwise the escaped sealant will impede or stop the movement of the outside adjustment ring.
Mod on…………………
Oh yeah, if you do this; remove the previous dried glue you see with a small pointy instrument. I used tweezer tips to pop it off.
This headlamp left a bad taste in my mouth. I would have understood if I was the only one with flickering problems, but it seems a more than small percentage are having the same issue. Then I hear the the Switch/USD (they cant spell USB?) side is coming off. That’s another strike against Imalent. I won’t touch anything they make with a 10 foot poll from now on.
Edit: my opinion is in no way a strike against freeme. I’ve done other deals with him I was 100% happy with. As a matter of fact, I just ordered a JetBeam Jet-MK through him.
Yeah ‘atbglenn’, I can understand why you would feel that way.
If mine had the “flickering affliction”…. I would probably feel that way also. :cry:
But, for whatever reason; both of mine did not have that problem.
Soooo, 1) with a little information, 2) some forethought about use around liquids, 3) a dab of clear glue, 4) and some GE 100% Silicon applied judiciously in the correct place; this ‘bad boy’ is indeed…… better than new. :student:
Personally, I would give it an ’IP Rating’ of IP40, possibly up to IP41, but no higher. ( IP Rating Reference )
YMMaWPV
mine arrived today ,flickers …on lower settings .not good for the eyes…
took about a month to arrive which is about normal…
Got mine today.
Flickers at low levels. The flickering is constant after selecting certain levels, it’s not just while touching/turning the dial.
Marked USD as well.
I received mine more than a week ago. So far it works fine without any flickering and nothing has fallen apart :innocent: I try to check it nightly to make sure there isn’t any flickering showing up and so far, it is a very nice light to have.
Thanks for the great deal!!!
Yeah, I got mine a week ago today Don; and I have been doing the same thing you have (with fingers crossed each time of course each time…. … ) .
So far so good, no flickering yet and I probably have 5 or 6 hours on the light. I also spend several minutes each night randomly running through the dial of the power settings while watching TV.
I wish we knew why some flickered & some don’t. I’m glad some of us were fortunate to receive flicker free models but hate it for the guys who did not.
Happy to hear you also have a good one Chuck :+1: I hope those with problems will be able to get it resolved with minimum effort.
Beers
I mean CHEERS
Thanks Don, the feeling is mutual. I hope they get the “flickering” thing sorted out, firstly for the sake of the guys that got them and secondly cause I am curious as to the reason. That video posted earlier in this thread plainly shows it… I just want to know “why” it does it.
I actually thought I would probably never use the “USD” Charging……… but I have had to eat my words. I use it on a regular basis just to top off the battery without taking it out of the light. I actually like it… I guess being an “older fart” I am just kinda resistant to change. :person_facepalming:
IF your top ever does come off it is no big deal, just stick it back on like I described earlier and it will be there to stay. In other words it will not come off unless you want it to & work at it a bit.
You take care, and cheers to you too!!! Until…. we turn them into 
’s later this Fall. :+1:
Thanks for the USB charging thought Chuck. I will be sure to keep the 12 volt charger in my vehicle :+1: To date I have not used any of the suppliedUSB chargers with any lights since I keep a good supply of batteries on hand that get charged at home. Also since I am old school too, I have a habit of not using delicate usb connections when possible.
BUT, that could change when least expected while on the road, and what a bummer if the car charger was sitting at home in a box and I didn’t have any extra charged batteries to use :person_facepalming:
Enjoy the cooling season after all the hot weather!
Sure thing my friend.
A tip, just be sure when you unplug the ‘USD plug’ from the light; the ‘USD cover’ is free & not trapped between your finger or thumb. Otherwise the cap will pop right off, which is probably what happened to mine in the first place.
But it is just as well it did, because I got to see how the switch was and that it was not water proof or resistant in any way.
Plus, the way my ‘Cap’ is attached now it won’t come off unless I want it to. :+1:
EDIT: PS, thanks… the cooler weather sure is nice.
Got mine 2 days ago, no flickering luckily, all is fine. Quality wise, well I am not sure what to say, thinnest ever battery tube I have ever seen on a light, maybe I could press it in with my finger if I wanted. Head is thick compared to that but gets hot in 2 minutes on max performance so it’s ideal around 500-600 lumes when the heat is not an issue. Led is on the coolsr side, centered well, no problems with that. Battery is quite ok, managed to push in 2440 mAmps with my lii 500. Still testing, it’s good for a secondary light but definitely not for primary use.