F.S. Jax Z1 w/MT-G2 and BLF22DD **SOLD**

Buy / Sell Want to Sell
1

I have a Jax Z1 for sale. I made it out of curiosity of what a ridiculously bright and floody light could do. Now that I’ve satisfied my urge to see it in person I’m ready to part with this piece of high lumens goodness.

Specs:

LED: MT-G2 5k on 20mm Noctigon from RMM, Noctigon soldered directly to brass pill
Driver: BLF22DD Zener modded FET driver (requires permanent use of the extension tube, I can loctite it on if the buyer wants. Also, must use unprotected 26650’s, the KK 4000maH protected ones I tried were too long till I removed the protection circuit)
Tailswitch: 6A ebay switch tested by a member on here, and found to have really great performance, 18ga wire soldered to the spring to reduce resistance (in the interest of full disclosure, the button protrudes slightly more than the original, making it too wobbly to tailstand properly.)
Other bits: The Metal ring around the LED used to reduce reflections has been painted lightly with glow in the dark paint, it appears grey now instead of the stock black color

Measured Output

Candela: 33,485 (using CT1330B meter)
Estimated Lumens: 3025 @ 30 seconds on 2x26650 unprotected King Kong 4000maH batteries
Lumens measurement taken in my pipe with the CT1330B meter, see this thread to know how I get the measurement, my current correction factor is .55

Appearance: It’s basically perfect with one extremely small mark from being handled to modify (see second picture). I’ve had other Z1’s show up on my doorstep with more rub marks than this one has now.

Price: $140 OBO SOLD

Some thermal cubes to help the FET driver out. It doesn’t generate much heat itself.

Noalox and Arctic Aluminum on the threads to the body before assembly.

Let me know if there are questions or if anyone wants me to post more pictures of the finished light. If this one sells I have the parts to make one more of these lights (except the driver, I would need to order another), so feel free to also PM me if you want one, but not this one.

2

That’s a really interesting build. Thanks for the great write-up! And what is that light the Jax is resting on?

3

Any beam shots?

4

It’s a copper build I made with a worked over SK98 head. There’s more about that light here.

I’ve got the itch and the lenses to build something bigger along the same lines at some point.

5

Just for you, two crappy cell phone pictures at about 15 meters from my garage. If you want something better I can haul out the DSLR.

No adjustments were made to the settings on my phone for the shots, same settings as they were for all the photos of the build.

6

How long can you run it on high before you have to turn it down?
And does it drop a lot of lumens after 1 min?

7

I’d say 3 minutes on high would be the wise man’s limit. I did a lumens test to 90 seconds. It did 3300 lumens in flood mode at startup, 3025 at 30 seconds, and 2750 at 90 seconds.

Edit: That was on the freshly charged de-protected King Kong 4000mah batteries. Just so it’s clear what batteries I used.

8

For reference, medium mode (by eye) is very similar to the copper dedomed XM-L2 light in the photo on high. That light tested at about 840 lumens. Low is nice and low, but definitely not moonlight.

9

i built the same basic light. 5000k mt-g2 on noctigon soldered to pill, same batteries, same driver. etc. i must say it is well worth the asking price if you are looking for a super bright light that is focus able.

10

Take any trade? TN31 or TN30 ( resistor modded) :smiley:

11

I’ll keep that offer in mind if I can’t get it sold. New TN31’s can be had on Amazon for $90, so I’ll continue to try to just sell it, but if no other offers come in we can haggle a bit and maybe find a happy place.

The TN31 is a light I’d like to play with, but long term would also probably get sold.

12

I just made a shunt wire and tested the current at the tail, and on batteries I used for 3-4 minutes yesterday I got 7.0 amps.

Here’s the shunt.

13

Is there really a “beam” for a beam shot with a MT-G2….wouldn’t it be more correct to ask for “wall of light” shots :slight_smile:

14

See said wall above. That was only 15m and my phone couldn’t capture the width even in landscape orientation.

15

It can run on two 18340’s right?
So it can be shorty mode. If so, can you check output if you happen to have two 18340 or 16340

16

That small mark can lower the cost for $40 :wink:

17

Wait,so now with the new shunt wire, your getting 7 amps?
Should be over 3000 lumens now right?

18

The shunt wire is just a good way to measure current without dropping a bunch of power in the meter. The current draw hasn’t changed on the light. Nothing has changed about the lumens measurements. My original measurements of 3025 lumens at 30 seconds is still correct.

I don’t have any 18340’s to test it on, sorry. I would expect current would drop a lot with the smaller batteries.

19

Update: trade negotiations under way. This will not be available anymore if pictures of offered lights look good.

20

Easy way to fix the tail stand wobble is take the green boot off and trim the “nub” on the inside of the boot. By trimming it a little you will get rid of the wobble and will go back to a “stock” feel and tail stand. I do it all the time on my lights if I swap switches or boots that have longer nubs (like the bright blue ones always have)