Official diagrams are now on GitHub and not in Lemmy
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Uh, you can’t remove the tail, because it has been glued shut. When I swapped in a freshly charged battery for the first time, I unscrewed the head because that’s the only path of access.
Thanks, DD.
I like this new approach of splitting off the Simple UI into a separate diagram. Helps reduce all the clutter of trying to support both advanced and simple on the same page, given the rather notable expansion of menu options now available in the latest version, compared to original Anduril V1.
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Oh, ok, from your wording it sounded like you were using the tail for battery swaps and tried the head once. Carry on.
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No worries. Yeah, when the FW3A came out, not only was access to the battery possible from both the head and tail, the tail cap had no retainer ring to keep all of the parts together. So instructions encouraged accessing the battery from the head. And because battery tube contact problems seemed to be more common by accessing the battery from the tail cap on even later models, it looks like Wurkkos tried to head this off by using some kind of adhesive (probably Loctite) to seal the tail shut.
Same for the TS10, hence the glue.
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Interesting. A later version of the FW3A (I think maybe even starting with the second production batch) incorporated a retainer ring. I guess Wurkkos didn’t want to bother with that and saved a little on production by just sealing it all up.
My interpretation is the priority for Wurkkos was to produce the shortest possible host. So they deleted the glass lens over the Tir, and the switch retaining ring that are in the FWAA. And added the Aux the FWAA lacks.
Whatever the reasons, I prefer the more symmetrical body waistline of the TS10 and I dont mind not having glass, nor retaining ring…
overall, I just like the TS10 host better… even though I much prefer the LED modability of the FWAA, it lacks the abililty to reflash that the TS10 enjoys
so overall my TS10 tics more boxes for me than the FWAA… spoilt fer choice 
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Jon, can you elaborate on what you mean by that?
After messing around with the aluminum TS10v2, I found that it turns bluish on turbo similarly to my first batch Ti TS10v2 before I disassembled it fully and repasted it (with arctic MX4).
I’ve tried tightening the bezel as much as I can, but I haven’t disassembled the head further than taking the bezel off.
I’m not sure if the “post tint fix” emitters are being driven harder or if there is insufficient thermal paste (or the MCPCB has a burr), as they’re fine in my TiCu light.
Hopefully it is covered under warranty.
FWAA uses 3535 LEDs such as sw45k and 519a Dedomed. I get lower tint duv (that I prefer) from those than from the CSP LEDs in the TS10, which have higher Tint DUV and do not let me use 519a.
Unless I swap out the stock TS10 mcpcb for a custom 3535 mcpcb for TS10. Plus the Aux are too small for me to see, so I cant mod the TS10 to 3535 myself.
The TS10 LEDs on stock board can be replaced w E21a, but those are not something I normally work with. Plus the CSP and E21a LEDs are more fragile, the phosphor is exposed, so I dont even try. And lastly, the E21a Tint DUV tends to be less pink than sw45k or a DeDomed 519a, so I dont use E21a at all.
For me, the TS10 is not modable, and I dont love the Tint of the CSP LEDs, no matter what batch they come from.
sorry to hear that
yours is the 3rd report I have seen, of Orange V2 causing blue LEDs on Turbo
thank you for trying that and sharing the lack of beneficial results.
I would try more thermal paste and or stop using Turbo.
listen to FBsLights if not to me…
thanks!
I agree the new mode spacing in Anduril is part of the problem, though it could also be the choice of LEDs
imho, the TS10 has always had too high of an output on Turbo, due to its small mass.
I really hope it gets a boost driver at some point, with a more reasonable max output.
if it was up to me (it is not)
the TS10 firmware would have Turbo disabled by default. Then only people who know how to turn it on could tempt fate. I also advocate for a ceiling of 100, Post Off Aux Voltage Display Off, and Smooth Steps and Soft Start and Soft off, but, I doubt anyone will listen to me. LOL
So I just change the settings for myself. Thats why I keep posting flowcharts with the green boxes showing my settings, as a not so subtle hint to Turn the Lights Down!
btw, I want to thank every single person contributing to this discussion. I greatly respect the quality of the conversation, and the number of extremely knowledgeable contributors. I posted this review on 3 forums, and this one is by far the most in depth, and has the most contributors.
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I’ll have to disassemble it further to check, but not before a warranty claim.
Also, I’m not gonna not use turbo on the tiny hotrod, if I wanted something reasonable I would grab my SP10. Maybe it’ll be a good candidate for a 3535 swap.
I have firmware I could put on it that limits FET to 60% anyways (or something like that, was equivalent to step 130/150)
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Absolutely agree with this sentiment.
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Thanks. Yeah, I did a direct compare of my FWAA to the TS10… and I do see a beam difference. Firstly, the FWAA is slightly warmer and a touch rosy. The CSP does have tint shift, where the wide hotspot is fairly neutral and then moving outside it into the spill is a warm zone. I don’t have a meter, but just eyeballing the illumination of objects in my room, it looks to me like the FWAA is a touch more natural and pleasing to the eye while the CSP looks more neutral.
Interesting about the mcpcb on the TS10 making modification problematic. I’m glad that I’m OK with the CSP as-is.
Btw, did Lumintop discontinue the FWAA?
I hear you on the lower Turbo.
The whole Turbo concept has always annoyed me in that really there is no Turbo.
Turbo is really just Wide Open, same as Stereo amp on 10 or 11 if you are Spinal Tap 
So it just make sense to not give customer the ability to have “Straight Wire” no/low resistance in the drive circuit. Engineer in resistance in the path in the chip if needed or through the software as you have suggested.
Just lower the ceilings right off the bat, they want the extra top 20% give them that with artificial “Turbo”
The best equipment from a reliability standpoint is built this way, over build the components to handle a larger load than you feed them and they will last a long and happy life. Finding the happy output of just shy of the apex of diminishing returns on Vf for instance.
If the owner then wants to risk reliability by modifying/hot rodding the circuit that is on them with no warranty.
But most muggles are never going to open the flashlight, they just want it to work properly.
Manufacturers need to drive home Quality not substandard Quantity.
McIntosh stereo equipment didn’t build their reputation being the loudest but rather by sounding very very good and educating the customer. That requires some work from manufacturers but they can form that quality understanding if they are consistent in messaging and advertising.
Less returns on warranty saves them money and reputation so it is money well spent.
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I still have not heard back from Terry or Wurkkos yet.
I hope they will do something for me.
C
Past reports have been that Wurkkos is usually very good about honoring warranty claims.
It helps a lot if you include a video, so the staff person who makes the decision to ship you a new light, can justify that they are doing their job properly, when causing the company an expense.
imo your photos are excellent, and hopefully that will be sufficient. For some reason Videos seem to be preferred.
I hope you end up satisfied either way.
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Yes, if a light can be driven in Turbo (at max current what the driver can deliver), then the light has to be designed that nothing will damaged. Use in Turbo is normal use. Even if the light put in turbo again and again, a well designed product will prevent damage or complete destruction. How it is done, is up to the manufacturer and/or suppliers of software and so on, not the user.
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Don’t forget that the Chinese new year festival is starting now. Normal operation should continue in about three weeks.
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If one were to want a ceiling of about 100 lumens how many clicks would that take? I love this little light just tying to customize it to my needs. I clip it to my ball cap for interior painting and would never use any higher output.
I’ve learned a great deal from this thread and want to thank you all thus far
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