Yay! 
I don’t know how I missed that. So when you’re in the ramping config (7H) and you need to reduce by more than 10 points, you can click and hold for a second to drop by 10 at a time?
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I keep quoting myself in this thread. 
I have several TS10s, both early V1 and V2. Never saw angry blue overdrive with V1. Most V2s show signs of overdrive (angry blue, or at least bigger jump in CCT).
It happens to fast too be a thermal mass issue. I think it happens too fast to even be a lack of solder paste.
Details:
V1 version seem to have about 0 to 200k CCT increase when going from top of ramp to turbo.
V2 versions jump about 400k+ with same change from top of ramp to turbo. — sign of overdrive.
Some start looking “angry blue” — obvious overdrive. Turn off quick!
The V2 change corresponds with Wurkkos getting a new low duv batch after complaints that the early Titanium builds were higher duv.
I recently made a Copper V2 by swapping parts with new Orange version. The amount of thermal paste was adequate. I replaced it with MX-4.
Which gives me an idea…
I just checked… 130/150 to turbo, CCT still jumps almost 400k w/ V2 LEDs in copper host.
130/150 to turbo, CCT changes very little w/ V1 LEDs in orange host.
FB
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Maybe the driver was changed slightly (maybe other components or slightly changed layout, don’t know) and the operating current at 130/150 is not the same between drivers of v1 and v2.
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In turbo, the TS10 gets hot extremely fast. Comparatively faster than the FWAA.
I don’t really ever have a need for full turbo, so it’s not a huge deal for me… but kind of disturbing to know this vulnerability exists. Definitely going to turn off turbo and lower the ceiling some more.
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that makes sense
I agree, thanks for taking the time to think this through. Now I understand better why Turbo lovers feel the blue LEDs are a warranty issue.
very helpful in every way.
fwiw, the mode spacing in firmware has changed, but that would not change Turbo…
I think youre right that the problem w blue LEDs on Turbo is due to different vf specs…
thanks for all your time and detailed info, including after having swapped the V2 Orange LEDs to a copper host, and for confirming that thermal paste is adequate and not the cause of blue LEDs on Turbo.
Also agree that thermal regulation is not the cause of blue LEDs on Turbo.
I hope people with the blue LED problem end up satisfied somehow. I dont thing replacing the light will make a difference, since the vf of the replacement LEDs will still be the same.
Dancing w Turbo has always been risky w a TS10, sorry to realize that the new LEDs made the problem worse.
It is unfortunate that the V2 Orange has these issues. I hope someday Wurkkos gives us a regulated driver, w NoPWM, and lower max output, so the blue LED issue goes away.
I also hope that firmware selection process gets refined so we dont have shipping lights with less than ideal firmware installed.
fwiw, I do not endorse the latest firmware either, as it has blinkies in Simple mode. It is a problem because Blinkies do not have thermal regulation.
I also dislike that the new firmware has Smooth Steps, which cannot be completely turned off, as they still affect the off cycle.
And the Post off voltage display imho should not be a default, as it causes a lot of confusion for new users.
imho Turbo, Post off voltage, and Smooth steps should all be off by default. Plus imo the ceilings are still too high in the latest firmware…
otoh, I can change my own ceilings, voltage display, smooth steps, and turbo, so overall the TS10 continues to be a very powerful anduril platform.
thanks again to everyone contributing to this in depth exploration of the TS10…
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Would be nice.
I’m tempted to make a “selftest” or “hwtest” firmware and only send that during prototype phases, instead of Anduril. The selftest would simply test each hardware component to make sure it works, then shut itself off. That way, the circuit design could be verified but there wouldn’t be much risk of the wrong firmware getting used in production.
The idea is, if I make the test firmware literally unusable, maybe manufacturers would stop using it. 
It doesn’t affect the off cycle when the config option is disabled.
Oddly enough, it’s closer to Sofirn’s other UIs when the voltage display is enabled. They typically do a battery status display on the aux LED(s) for a few seconds after pressing the button… but in Sofirn’s case, it’s hardcoded and can’t be turned off.
Yeah, it seems like the TS10 needs additional care to make the defaults safer, especially with the latest batches. Like, using the “no turbo” mode by default, at least. Then turbo would only be available after entering advanced mode and raising the ceiling or changing the turbo style.
The default ceiling is 130/150, which translates to 350 mA plus 117/255 of the DD FET… which is roughly half power overall.
If that’s too high, it could be set to something else. Here are some options, with estimated outputs from the ramp calculator…
- 130/150: ~620 lm (current default)
- 125/150: ~519 lm
- 120/150: ~432 lm
- 115/150: ~358 lm
- 110/150: ~295 lm
Finding the right defaults can be tricky. Usually as a rough guideline, I set the default ceiling to about 2X the thermally sustainable limit… so it can go pretty high but not enough to throttle immediately or cause damage. But maybe on the latest TS10 it should be even lower?
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that makes sense, thanks for sharing your premise
It doesn’t affect the off cycle when the config option is disabled.
great info, thank you for the clarification.
also thanks for the other output levels data
what lumen level do you consider the Sustainable reference for the TS10 aluminium host? (I realize that changes w the Thermal Ceiling, so lets base the answer on the firmware default)
Would be helpful to test the emitters and the driver before setting the firmware defaults.
I wonder why seemingly nobody noticed this phenomena of blueish tint aka overcurrenting on the TS10 v2… but I wonder also why here are only two documented cases of fried emitters - since the TS10 is selling really good (I assume, by feeling everyone has at least one of them and now the v2 would be bought) there should be more of this defects.
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I think FBsLights comments about the change in LEDs to attempt to reduce the DUV, with the unintended consequence of possibly lower Vf in the Orange V2, speaks to that. Imo the Ti TS10 models have such poor thermal dissipation and such severe step down from Turbo, that I suspect most of them ended up as shelf queens.
it is still early in the game for the Orange V2
there was already a report on Reddit for a blue LED Turbo on an Orange V2, so we have at least 3 reports so far (actually one in this thread for blue Turbo, and one in this thread for burned LEDs that might have been caused by flux), plus the repeated warnings from FBsLights about the unusually high CCT jump on Turbo w the Orange V2
there should be more of this defects.
Im sure there will be… among those who insist on using Turbo
my personal preference is to set ceiling close to the Sustainable output (maybe 20% higher), but, Im sure others will differ
So should I run the light on high for a bit then try to use rubber straps to take off the bezel? Mine is on there super tight.
no because if there is flux on the LEDs you will already have burned them
for a heat source,
I like to boil some water, pour some in a cup, and then dip just the tip of the bezel, in the boiled water… the heat will spread pretty quickly, and boiled water is not hot enough to melt solder, so it wont hurt the electronics
if you dont want to live dangerously and dont want to trust the O ring seal, cover the head of the light w a sanwich bag first
remember to take the battery out before messing w the bezel
and be careful not to let the optic spin, or its legs will drag over the LEDs and destroy them
make sure the optic stays pressed against the mcpcb while unscrewing, and when reinstalling, the bezel.
make sure the optic legs are fully seated in the mcpcb holes when reassembling… dont rely on the bezel to press them into place or bad things can happen
also be careful not to flood the driver with alcohol, dont make the q tip so sopping wet that excess alcohol gets below the mcpcb
after I dip a q tip in alcohol, I pinch the cotton w my fingers to squeeze out excess before using it to clean the mcpcb… and be careful when wiping the LEDs… they dont have a dome, the phosphor is exposed and relatively fragile… dont rub hard
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I reported this same “angry blue” observation when I first got a TiCu and Ti Blue. Those samples have the most CCT jump of the 6 V2 TS10s I have. The 6000k one rose to well over 7000k on turbo!
My guess is that these (2) are the ones that would fry the emitters if left on turbo more than a few seconds.
Most of the V2s aren’t as bad and the battery voltage drops so fast that after just a little playing the overdrive isn’t as noticeable. These will probably be fine with occasional turbo runs… at least for a while.
FB
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I tried this. Three times. Bezel would not budge. I could get the bezel off my V1 on the first try and I did find a tiny black fleck on one LED that would not come off just wiping it. Alcohol was required and removal was easy once applied to a cotton swab. Since I found that fleck on my V1, now I’m worried about my V2. Will also have to invest in some narrow strap wrenches.
FWIW, on my V1 there was an obviously large amount of clear goop over the two solder points for the wires. Some of it comes up right along side an LED, but none of it is in contact with the phosphor.
are you just using bare hands?
I like to use nitrile-dipped gloves. I find they give you a very firm grip on the flashlight. Since I started using the gloves for disassembly of new lights especially, I have had almost no failures in defeating the threadlock. A plus is that they are also quite affordable and can just be used as normal work gloves.
I have only on occasion had to use a hot air gun.
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thanks for the tip, I just ordered some from Home Depot online to try for myself 
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Hey Jon , great understandable review . This is also a very informative thread.
RW
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I think I already said it in other post all my anduril lights change with 3c ramp mode, I didn’t know about the 6c.
It always worked for me the 3c factory firmware and with the new version.
One thing in the pictures I see a hollower tube on the left than the right is it a visual effect or is it because of another battery?
Thank you.
In electronics in general which is my field, the new pushbutton is less durable, the old one looks more robust unless the material is worse.
These pushbuttons break because they give way when pressed and the new one usually breaks very easily or moves from the center.
It is a very normal failure in electronic devices that it takes it and I replace it by other better ones, that in the lantern do not enter.
They are encapsulated in a small box and the pulsation plate does not move.
I have had to change many!
Mine did get angry blue the first time I went to turbo. that’s what made me look closely into it and find the burnt led’s.
C