Do I need to put the 5V power jumper in place on the original USBasp to flash Attiny13/85s?
If the target (i.e. the Attiny) has no own power source, then yes.
OK thanks.
Mine came shipped on the 5v jumper and that’s where its stayed for, Um maybe 5 years. It’s worked on 13a, 25 and 85.
TK, you rock! Yup, you’re completely right on this being a hardware issue. I had my power supply set to 4.1v when testing, and a fully charged battery. I lower my voltage to 3.6 and it functions perfectly. 3.7 and it does the double flash on the highest mode and back down to low.
Well that’s a bummer. So I have as BLF A6 driver sitting here, so I’m going to try to flash with the Babka firmware while also transferring the 471 bleed resistor over to the A6 driver.
Sorry if all of this info has been discussed before. I’ve been out of the game for so long, and there are SOOO many firmware and driver options now!
EDIT: Okay, with the Banggood X6 driver, will the LED it’s driving have an impact on the overvoltage issue? I happen to be driving some old stock XM-L2 emitters.
It might. The wires between the driver and MCPCB can have a significant effect too… longer or thinner wires make the issue worse, while wider shorter wires reduce the issue a bit. I suspect that the LED type can affect things too. It’s all very analog.
There are workarounds though. One that I’m aware of is the “pyramid” fix:
Yikes, aligning that pyramid doesn’t look fun 
I couldn’t get the BLF A6 working, and now I managed to lose the 471 resistor (went flying when I hit it with my reflow station gun). I think I’m at the point where I’m done modifying, and just need to buy stuff already modified. Tinkering is more frustrating than it is satisfying.
I appreciate the help TK! What is a good thread for me to post up what kind of UI I’m looking for, and someone can tell me exactly what driver to buy, what firmware to flash, and any other tweaks needed (such as a resistor if doing lighted tailcap)?
Thanks for sharing
I’m not fond of tricky soldering either, so I try to limit my modifications mostly to firmware. It’s much easier than soldering tiny parts into arrangements they weren’t intended for.
This current thread is definitely not the worst place to ask… Or there’s CRX’s thread for interface cheatsheets: Flashlight User Interface Cheatsheets
The repository’s INDEX file might also be useful, but it’s not the greatest. It’s just the contents of each project’s “meta” file reorganized and merged into one file, to make it easier to search for suitable projects.
In general, a lighted tailcap is kind of a pain on pretty much any light because it depends so much on finicky analog circuit behavior. Djozz or emarkd might have some good tips on doing those though, since they have done quite a few.
Or if you use an e-switch light, it’s easier to have a lighted button since the MCU can power and control it directly. But then it’s difficult to have the button in the tail. The FW3A does it, but it has no button light and it’s somehow still not out yet.
can someone give me a link for a working AVRdude? In the tutorial threads the links are not working. I replaced my computer and I can’t flash any light now.
I don’t remember but do I need to install atmel studio tu work?
I already installer MHR AVR tools.
I have win7 32 bit on the laptop and win10 on the PC. either I got working is fine for me.
Thank you!
This one works for me:
http://stefanfrings.de/avr_tools/avrdude-6.3-mingw32.zip
No, just unpack avrdude.exe into a file and run it from the folder you extracted it to.
Alright I’m a bit lost here with my SOIC-8 clip. I’m trying to flash an Attiny 85. My SOIC-8 Clip just has an 8-pin connector. I’m assuming I need to replace that with a 10-pin corrector to match the USBasp connecter right? How else would I get MISO and MOSI? If yes, how do I open these connectors? Seems impossible to me.
Nooooo…You only run 6 wires from the usb programmer (10 pins) to the clip (8 pins) and they do not directly correspond to up/down or left/right.
Carefully try to follow the diagram from here:
or here:
I’m on mobile so you get the short version.
Pin 1 is the one with the dot on the corner and the red cable at the clip.
Start at Pin1 and search the other connections between the Programmer and the Tiny.
You need VCC, GND, MISO, MOSI, SCK and RST
I don’t have single wires to plug. My SOIC-8 clip is soldered to an 8-pin IDC connector with ribbon wire. 
Like this http://www.bios-chip24.com/Programmier-Adapter-SOIC8-Clip-In-Circuit-Programmierung
I found that set up to be too tricky for me… Though others have managed to make it work. my feeble mind quickly got lost in all the same color wires. and you will have to not use four of them, but I cannot tell you which four not to use or how to hook them up on the USB programmer.
it might be worth the money and headache to get some colored cables and unsolder the gray ones from the clip and then solder the colored ones on to the clip to correspond to the pictures.
This is exactly my problem. It is SO hard to not lose the overview and constantly think from the female and male connector perspective. I’m just done with pretinning the cut up 10-pin wire…now I need a cigarette first. 
More pics
and this person made your setup work…grey cable
I did do it the other way around. I soldered on the clip and left the 10-pin connector untouched. I’ll go over it one more time, but I’m pretty positive I got it correct.
See here: 
Red cable is Pin 1.
For my first flash, I did something like this for my D4S:
pretty tedious placing six loose fitting wires into six holes while trying not to pull the others out while twisting them around…
but I got a successful Anduril flash on my DS4! Woot!
Ordered a bare clip to try and flash my Q8 now that I am an “expert”…ha!