TK, you rock! Yup, youāre completely right on this being a hardware issue. I had my power supply set to 4.1v when testing, and a fully charged battery. I lower my voltage to 3.6 and it functions perfectly. 3.7 and it does the double flash on the highest mode and back down to low.
Well thatās a bummer. So I have as BLF A6 driver sitting here, so Iām going to try to flash with the Babka firmware while also transferring the 471 bleed resistor over to the A6 driver.
Sorry if all of this info has been discussed before. Iāve been out of the game for so long, and there are SOOO many firmware and driver options now!
EDIT: Okay, with the Banggood X6 driver, will the LED itās driving have an impact on the overvoltage issue? I happen to be driving some old stock XM-L2 emitters.
It might. The wires between the driver and MCPCB can have a significant effect tooā¦ longer or thinner wires make the issue worse, while wider shorter wires reduce the issue a bit. I suspect that the LED type can affect things too. Itās all very analog.
There are workarounds though. One that Iām aware of is the āpyramidā fix:
I couldnāt get the BLF A6 working, and now I managed to lose the 471 resistor (went flying when I hit it with my reflow station gun). I think Iām at the point where Iām done modifying, and just need to buy stuff already modified. Tinkering is more frustrating than it is satisfying.
I appreciate the help TK! What is a good thread for me to post up what kind of UI Iām looking for, and someone can tell me exactly what driver to buy, what firmware to flash, and any other tweaks needed (such as a resistor if doing lighted tailcap)?
Iām not fond of tricky soldering either, so I try to limit my modifications mostly to firmware. Itās much easier than soldering tiny parts into arrangements they werenāt intended for.
This current thread is definitely not the worst place to askā¦ Or thereās CRXās thread for interface cheatsheets: Flashlight User Interface Cheatsheets
The repositoryās INDEX file might also be useful, but itās not the greatest. Itās just the contents of each projectās āmetaā file reorganized and merged into one file, to make it easier to search for suitable projects.
In general, a lighted tailcap is kind of a pain on pretty much any light because it depends so much on finicky analog circuit behavior. Djozz or emarkd might have some good tips on doing those though, since they have done quite a few.
Or if you use an e-switch light, itās easier to have a lighted button since the MCU can power and control it directly. But then itās difficult to have the button in the tail. The FW3A does it, but it has no button light and itās somehow still not out yet.
can someone give me a link for a working AVRdude? In the tutorial threads the links are not working. I replaced my computer and I canāt flash any light now.
I donāt remember but do I need to install atmel studio tu work?
I already installer MHR AVR tools.
I have win7 32 bit on the laptop and win10 on the PC. either I got working is fine for me.
Thank you!
Alright Iām a bit lost here with my SOIC-8 clip. Iām trying to flash an Attiny 85. My SOIC-8 Clip just has an 8-pin connector. Iām assuming I need to replace that with a 10-pin corrector to match the USBasp connecter right? How else would I get MISO and MOSI? If yes, how do I open these connectors? Seems impossible to me.
I found that set up to be too tricky for meā¦ Though others have managed to make it work. my feeble mind quickly got lost in all the same color wires. and you will have to not use four of them, but I cannot tell you which four not to use or how to hook them up on the USB programmer.
it might be worth the money and headache to get some colored cables and unsolder the gray ones from the clip and then solder the colored ones on to the clip to correspond to the pictures.
This is exactly my problem. It is SO hard to not lose the overview and constantly think from the female and male connector perspective. Iām just done with pretinning the cut up 10-pin wireā¦now I need a cigarette first.
I did do it the other way around. I soldered on the clip and left the 10-pin connector untouched. Iāll go over it one more time, but Iām pretty positive I got it correct.