For work on an expedition vehicle: Looking for a symmetrical floodlight with high CRI, USB-C, and no frills

LED Flashlights – General Info 18650 Flashlights
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Hello,

I’m Dennis, and about three weeks ago, I fell pretty deep into the rabbit hole of LED flashlights!

I’ve always had a fascination with flashlights, which started back in childhood with the Maglite. Back then, I could barely afford new batteries when they ran out. The flashlight topic then faded away because I simply didn’t need one until recently. At least, that’s what I thought. So, over the years, it remained a quiet fascination without me buying one. It stayed like that for a long time, watching a video once or twice a year about something “really bright”, being fascinated, reminding myself that I didn’t really need it, and then moving on with normal life.

Now, with the purchase of a truck for converting into an expedition vehicle, I find myself needing light more and more often. Sometimes I work on the “construction site” without power and in darkness, or I lay cables under the truck. Until recently, I always used my phone’s flashlight or a cheap flashlight until it dawned on me: Why am I putting myself through this???

That’s why I’m here now. I’ve read a lot and watched hours of videos, but unfortunately haven’t found “my” model yet. I keep finding flashlights that almost fit. But then something is always missing.

Last week, I ordered the Wurkkos TS22 with XHP 70.3 HI 90CRI 5000K, which has arrived by now. I’ll write a separate post about it. Due to its form factor (not a headlamp), it is entirely unsuitable for my purposes, but I couldn’t resist.

So now I’m also looking for a headlamp for my work. It should essentially be similar to “my” Wurkkos, just as a headlamp. I am looking for:

Should not:

  • The lamp should not be chargeable via magnetic connector, docking station, induction, or anything similar
  • Additionally, please no other frills (“Bluetooth,” “App,” “more lotion”…)

Should:

  • Close range, as floody as possible (mule?)

  • As bright as possible, more than 500 Lumens continuously

  • High CRI

  • Power supply: Standard format, in the lamp, replaceable. I was thinking of 18650, but am completely open to other sizes. Alternatively: Battery pack on the headband

  • USB-C port on the lamp to charge the battery

  • Open OS if possible

  • Waterproof

  • Headband replaceable/washable

  • The lamp should be symmetrical from left to right:
    – 1.: The light unit should be in the center of the lamp, not at the left or right edge
    – 2.: The individual LEDs should be arranged symmetrically from left to right

Examples of acceptable LED arrangements (LED Type 1: X, LED Type 2: Y, no LED: 0):

X X X

X Y X

X X X
Y Y Y

X Y X
X Y X

0 X 0
X 0 X

0 Y 0
X 0 X

0 X 0
Y Y Y
X 0 X

X X Y X X

X X Y Y X X

… and so on, I hope the principle is clear.

So far, I have considered the following models:

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When meeting exclusion criteria (in red), I have sometimes not filled in any further data, so the cells are simply empty. In orange, I have marked what is not optimal for me. Have I forgotten anything? Are there any mistakes?

I know it’s a tall order, I am looking forward to your suggestions. Thank you very much,

Best regards,
Dennis

1 Thank
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It seems you have soem clear requirements and have done some digging already. I am curious about some things:

  1. What are your usecases for the headlamp?
  2. why do you need the light to be symmetrical?
  3. What do you mean with “power button on the back”? Not very clear what you consider the ‘backside’ on a headlamp.
  4. Open os - headlamps are mostly used as ‘tools’ and more simplicity focused. This is probably a very limiting requirement as there are few ui’s that are open (anduril being the most popular).

I don’t know what to recommend exactly because of the questions above, but here are some general things that may help you choose:

Sustained lumens
Given your requirements prioritizing sustained lumens is probably what you are looking for. Unfortunately, only max. lumens are generally clearly advertised, and there isn’t a database you can check for a lumen level that is sustained for a certain amount of time. The only way to find out is to look at reviews with performance graphs per light.

Shock resistant
There are differences in “shock resistance”. This depends on your usecase, but most ‘good’ brands have good enough impact protection for drops, bumps and the like. On the top of my head this includes acebeam, fenix, nitecore and even models of sofirn and wurkkos. And while emisar/noctigon lights are really cool, and generally among favourites on this forum, tthey aren’t necessarily the most sturdy for shocks and falls.

Some brands prioritize sturdyness (armytek, surefire, malkoff, elzetta etc.) But they sacrifice other areas (CRI, tint, size, output, modes, features etc.) and are generally focused on the tactical/weapon mounted crowd.
You might be better off with other brands for your need.

Let us know your usecase and i am sure there is a flashlight nerd among us who can help you find a suitable model.

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Hello @Lightweightled ,

thank you for your swift reply. Let me get back to your questions:

  1. I’m building an expedition vehicle. So I’m under the vehicle and doing stuff under the hood, but also building the whole thing. So also electronics, soldering, work on solar system, painting, constructing and so on is involved. Basically everything you do when building an off-grid house and fixing a car
  2. It’s a spleen. I just like it much better this way. Maybe you’ve heard of the TV-show Monk?
  3. You are right, please disregard. I also fixed it in my first post. Thanks
  4. I see, thanks. Maybe there are still some models, if not I guess I’ll have to live with it. I also edited above

Concerning shock resistance: I am very careful with my gear, so it’s not super important. I just don’t want it to fall apart when looking at it. I removed it from my first post.

I hope that helps? If you have any more questions please just let me know.

Kind regards
Dennis

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Maybe you can try this one, since this is not on your list somehow.

Wurkkos HD50

This would satisfy this conditions:

  • floody enough
  • LED arrangement will be X Y Z: red, throw, floody LED
  • 350 lm for 6 hours
  • flood LED with 90 CRI
  • Power supply: 21700.
  • USB-C port on the lamp to charge the battery
  • Simple OS, separate button for change mode and brightness
  • IP67
  • Headband replaceable/washable
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HS42. Love mine.

High-CRI flood which is very floody (yay!) but not-so-high-CRI spot. Can select between flood, spot, or both.

And red. Looove the red. Doesn’t attract bugs from all over Hell’s Creation.

It’s an offset, though. Essentially a right-angle flashlight with headstrap. On full flood, I actually don’t mind, because it’s that floody, and I actually detest most “L-shaped” headlights.

Best headstrap I’ve seen in ages, too.

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It’s good to come up with a list of wants.
If you haven’t had a few different headlights you might not fully know what you really want and why.
I agree that high cri and a wide smooth flood (120°) are important.
I believe that insisting on a centered LED is unnecessary and rules out way too many lights for no good reason.
I would recommend you go and watch a few more YouTube videos of the armytek model on your list. And also the video of the 3000k model.

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Dear flashlight enthusiasts,

I have spent the last few months delving further into this topic. I have come to the conclusion that I need to adjust my search profile a bit. I have decided not to consider appearances any further and instead to focus entirely on the technical details.

My use case has remained the same, but now obviously my search profile has changed. I think it would make more sense for me to focus on the following from now on:

  • Headlamp
  • Li-Ion battery (standard format, removable)
  • Flood (as floody as possible)
  • High CRI, as bright as possible
  • Preferably with open OS

From what I understand so far, a “mule” would be best for me. So far, I have found 2 models:

  • Firefly PL47MU
  • Emisar DW4 (mule)

Other flashlights that are also floody but not mule seem to be:

  • Noctigon (it seems the KR4 was once available as a mule, but I haven’t been able to find it anymore)
  • Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Max
  • Zebralight H604d

What do you think? And are there any other mule headlamps with high CRI that might be suitable for me?

Thank you for your patience and your previous responses!

Best regards
Dennis

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Jeep fan here - I have Jeep WJ, been on one week off-road trip this year. I have 8 or more headlamps. Which one I used? NiteCore NU25. Why? It’s ligtweight and bright enough. And has USB-C charging.

Now Your candidates:
All listed headlamps - Firefly, Emisar, ArmyTek and Zebraligt are technically great headlamps. I won’t say which one is best, but I will say - I wouldn’t choose ANY 21700 headlamp. It’s just too heavy for convenient use. So personally I wouldn’t buy WIzard C2 Pro Max - but I have Wizard C2 Pro with warm LED - 18650 powered - and it’s great headlamp.

Edit 1:
Well, maybe I could recommend one - Armytek Wizard C2 Pro non-Max. Of all mentioned it’s most convenient to charge - no external charger needed, just proprietary USB cable (personally I would prefer USB-C…) You’ll already have tons of stuff tossed around in car - no charger might be more important factor than “xx% more lumens” or so.

Edit 2:
And +1 for Wurkkos HS42. It’s cheaper and “non-premium” one, but it’s got (really) floody high CRI LEDs and built-in USB-C charging.

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Thanks for your help, Kazik!

2 Questions:

  • What’s the biggest battery you consider comfortable weight-wise? An 18650?

  • You mean the SOFIRN HS42, right?

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I find only 18650 powered headlamps to “be usable”. Even some 1x18650 ones - like Wurkkos HD15 - are too heavy for my taste. Bought two 21700 powered - sold them right away. But that’s just me - I know some people prefer 21700, as they provide more juice - thus more runtime. I’d rather have spare 18650 in my pocket and less weight on my head. That said - I rarely use 18650 powered headlamps, I prefer even smaller ones like that NiteCore NU25 if I don’t need raw power - and when working at engine or suspension even 200lm is more than I need. I mostly use 50-100lm modes. But when it’s night and I am looking around camp for some wood to make a fire - that’s when somthing like 500lm comes in handy. So 1x18650 headlamp might get You both comfort and power when needed.
And if You buy on Aliexpress - NiteCore NU25 is <30$, maybe it isn’t a bad idea to buy 2 headlamps… :smile: But that’s how You slowly turn into flashoholic…

Yes, my mistake - I meant SOFIRN HS42.

Edit:
Just thought of another cheaper option - Sofirn HS21. Has floody high CRI LEDs and good, regulated driver - better than HS42. Thing is… it’s on heavy side. I have both HS42 and HS21 and I find HS21 to be superior headlamp - and I’d rather use HS42 as it’s ligther :grin:

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Zebralight H604d - 39gr.

1 Thank
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Yes, Zebra’s headlamps are great - light for their size, with good UI and great quality (at least older ones). Also there are couple od LED to choose from. I have had H600 mark II for like 10 years and it is still my favourite. But external charger is needed. There are 18650 with built-in USB-C charging board, but I don’t think it will fit H600 - will try it and confirm.

Edit:
USB-C 18650 doesn’t fit my Zebraligt H600. But Zebra H53 fits Soshine AA 1,5v USB-C rechargeable. It also fits USB-C 14500 from AceBeam - though manual says H53 shouldn’t be used with 14500 (but supposedly it works just fine ;))

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Headlamps with built in chargers, with some kind of rotating or moving parts are made for indoor adventurers and sofa campers. It is toys not tools. :laughing:

1 Thank
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Thank you for your suggestions. After I’ve looked at all the different beamshots I believe, that for tasks done with my hands - right in front of my nose - I would prefer a mule. Somehow, I feel like mules are a niche product. I don’t understand why. Sure, they might not be great as beacons, but I can’t be the only one who solders, tightens screws, and lays cables in the dark, right?

Maybe it makes sense to start a new thread focusing only on mules? This one starts with something completely different than what I’m discussing now…

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So…

I did start a new thread, “Looking for a mule headlamp with high CRI, Li-Ion battery, and preferably open OS for working on an expedition vehicle”

I hope, there are more flashlights out there, than the 3 models I was able to find - where one of them isn’t even available anymore…

Kind regards
Dennis

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Any light with diffusion film slapped on the front can make a nice mule-ish light.

I keep bringing it up, but my “kitchen light” is the dreaded Tacklife light that was out a while ago for cheap. Built like a tank, but it’s got a hideous UI (fine if you treat it as a simple on/off light, though), and a hateful little G3 shooting a hideous fried-egg-from-Hell tight pencil-beam (lemon-yellow hotspot with piss-yellow corona and blue spill all around it).

I slapped on a piece of really heavily-diffused DF under the front glass (sticky kind in front is fine, and easily reversible), and now it throws a nice even blanket of light that’s slightly brighter in front (so you have some “focus” as to what you’re looking at) but still fades out gradually and oh so nicely to the periphery. And all the colors are mixed into a purely homogeneous beam.

(The G3 used as a mule WILL still have a fried-egg beam, blue in the center fading to yellow at the periphery. DF fixes all that.)

Don’t discount The Power Of Diffusion Film, as you might prefer that over a pure mule, as I do.

And don’t forget that a mule will have to be cranked up to stoopit-high brightness to illuminate what’s right in front of you to any noticeable degree. The slightest bit of “focus” will increase that brightness a whole lot.

Before you poopoo the idea, definitely try it. And not just some lightly-frosted piece where you can still see a blurred hotspot, but double-up if you have to.

2 Thanks
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@Lightbringer Thanks for the info, I will keep this in mind. I ordered a SOFIRN HS21 yesterday, even though this is not what I was looking for at the beginning at all, but I think it might work for me.

It is supposed to have an awesome flood (6 LEDs) with a terrible throw (1 LED), both can be switched on individually or together. Since I don’t want throw, naturally I’m already thinking of replacing the 1 throw-LED with a higher CRI one, and then making it floody. I will remember your comment about diffusion film!

Kind regards
Dennis

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Bug Boaz for some. He sells sample pax for 3bux or something like that, all different kinds. Can’t go wrong…

1 Thank