Btw, lockout is a just an easy twist of the head.
Now that you mention it, it makes sense as the springs in the tail cap competes the series circuit between the cells rather than from the cap to body. I just got confused from reading the other posts.
KuoH
I did that unintentionally when trying to unscrew the tail cap and it went into an unfamiliar aux + main LED slow flash mode. The power button then became unresponsive until I disconnected the batteries again.
KuoH
Could I get coupon code for the MF01s and the diffuser? Thanks.
Yes, I couldn’t get images to load yesterday either. So just supplied links to my photos.
Isn’t this because the body does not supply power to the head? Both + and - are supplied via the series arrangement of the cells and the “cell holder” at the bottom. Jason & others, can you confirm this (I’m at work away from my light right now).
Interested, please send me the code for the lamp and diffusor…
Anyone has compared the light to the nichia MF01? I guess the 5000k would be about the same light color?
I don’t have one of these lights (but I’m thinking about getting one) plus this is a new design compared to the battery carriers of the MF01, etc…
If we look at the top of the battery tube
we see the brass post in the middle which is the positive 6 volt pole and the other connection point for the negative is the bare aluminum end of the battery tube. The 2 screws do not transfer current.
If you undo those 2 screws you should see a pcb screwed to the battery tube. This pcb (which we have not seen yet) should direct the positive to the brass button and the negative into the battery tube itself.
The cap is only for making the 4 battery connections and no current flows through the tail cap.
This is what it seems like to me. Maybe TA can confirm or maybe someone can take a picture of this pcb under the white disc.
BTW, this battety tube and cap looks like the same basic design as the MT09R. Because it’s 6 volts, the cap just connects the positive to the negative on both sets of batteries. The top of the battery tube then has both positive and negative 6 volts.
More pics
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I managed to finally calibrate it properly. right now i have it at 55. what’s the maximum safe temp? I want to tail stand it and get the most lumens i can for 20 mins. If i set it to like 65 could it damage the optics or something?
The electronics can easily handle 65 degrees Celsius no problem. Most optics are made from polycarbonate and they can handle up to 150°C.
So 65°C should be fine. Even 80°C. Just don’t burn yourself.
So according to the pics, the cap and body do not conduct power. It’s just the batteries and the plate at the top. So obviously, loosening the tailcap will do nothing for lockout. But loosening the head should result in a lockout.
Nice. I was just thinking that everything about this light is killer except for the lack of tail cap lock out. Thank you for posting that.
Right. That’s the idea.
Slight rattle from the white plastic under the retaining ring, reminiscent of the FT03’s. It doesn’t bother me, just thought I’d point it out.
More details: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/56693
ASTROLUX MF01S 18*SST20 XP-G3 15000lm CRI95 4*18650 Flashlight with 4*SAMSUNG 30Q
Special Price: $95.90 ($125.95)
Coupon: Request through PM
Many members have requested for this bundle.
oh now you drop this
Such request requires extra time secure stocks and get approval from their head.
Just received my sand color SST-20 4000K one. It is a little brownish in color but very nice. The real think looks and feels better in the hand than I expected from pictures. Feels very heavy and solid (heavy = good thermal mass for heat sinking) I also like the functional deep heatfins. Just wish they got rid of the tripod mount to make room for more heat fins for better cooling since I doubt many people will use the tripod mount. You cannot unscrew to lockout the light as others reported. Here are my measusrements:
Turbo on fully charged VTC6 10,080 lumens at turn on using the Texas Ace Lumen Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights. Using higher current cells should easily push it above 11,000 lumens but don’t have any to test with right now.
At turbo:
CCT: 3741K
DUV: –0.0031
Ra (CRI): 95.2
R9: 84.0
Rf: 92
Rg: 103
At turbo optics and lens removed:
CCT: 4355K
DUV: –0.0096
At 2nd lowest stepped mode (79 lumens):
CCT: 3822K
DUV: 0.0009
Ra (CRI): 97.9
R9: 98.6
Rf: 92
Rg: 99
At 2nd lowest stepped mode optics and lens removed:
CCT: 4056K
DUV: –0.0030
Removing the glass lens resulted in no significant difference in tint, meaning they used a good glass lens like the UCL lens. Also measurement show that this is likely the FA3 or FD2 tint bin and not the typical greenish FB4 tint.
For the price, this thing is unbeatable for what it offers. I’m contemplating whether I should get a purple one but there’s no other emitter option that I want to have. The 5000K and 6500K has too much greenish tint.