Try giving the battery tube a half turn.
Actually untwisting the head from the body does work. Untwisting the tail cap from the body tube doesn’t work. So therefore the anodizing on this light does work to lockout the light. 
The reason that there is no tail cap lockout is that there is no electricity passing through the tailcap threads on the MF01S like on a regular light. It has that spinning pcb that simply connects one battery to the other in series so you get two 6 volt “battery units”.
When I untwist the body from the head it does lockout, if I continue untwisting until fully removed it continues to make periodic live contact where color lights go on then off again as it is being rotated, repeatedly until fully removed. On occasion the main white led’s have flickered as it’s rotated. Is this normal and fine.
Took a few photos, don’t seem to be posting so I’m including the links.
PH1 phillips screws.
The two small metal circles correspond to the positive side of the batteries as inserted in the battery compartment.
T4 hex bit
Yeah, normal and fine. The bare aluminum end of the battery tube is where the high current passes. You are probably getting a tiny bit of current going through the anodizing of the threads.
This image may or may not show for everyone. Google images are temperamental with our forum software.
The 4 screw holes seen should all be ground points from 2 of the batteries negative springs. This puts the negative side straight into the battery tube.
The 2 positive battery posts should go to that brass button in the center.
Can anyone post a picture of this pcb that shows the traces on the other side?
I got my silver 6500k all look well so far but I have not used it much as I am still testing batteries. I have tried it with Viacore with protection and they fit easily witch supprice me a little as they just fit convoy s2+, allmoste like a piston. I kan go to max ramp, a bit below 6000 lumens I guess, but of cause turn of at turbo as thay should. I wonder what the power draw are at max ramp?
It would not surprise me if it were at 18 to 20 amps at 6v. Probably more. At 20A and 4 batteries that would be about 10A per battery. Protected cells typically have higher resistance due to the protection circuitry, but they still might try to draw 7A or more each.
I don’t know if anyone has tested the current draw. It would be tricky to measure.
This is a quick guess, I haven’t done any math on what each led current would be.
Edit, quick math says it might get up to 27 amps.
No I meant max ramp or what one said were about 40.5% of turbo. So the power draw would be rufly 1/3 of turbo or about 3-3.5a per battery because of higher efficiency. Which explains why it could ramp to max alltroungh I have only tested it shortly. Maybe the battery dont have an overload protection and it was the flashlight that turned off?
One of the Chinese reviews measured the current @18.8A
I just went with the xp-g3 version and assumed a best case scenario of it doing 15,000 lumen. It would need high drain cells and pull around 27A.
If they only measure 19A, I wonder what the lumens where, what emmiter, plus what batteries and how did they measure it?
The prototype MF01 pulled about 16A iirc and that should be a noticably less powerful light. It used a boost driver. The MF01S is a FET driver. I really would expect more than 19, though.
It had to be battery, the flashlight should not turn off.
I can’t remember the driver design, have we seen driver pics? I’m guessing it’s using a resistor bank for the non FET channel. We need to know how much current that channel passes, then we’ll know the battery load.
Unscrew the driver’s brass retaining ring, put the copper exposed end between driver copper trace and retaining ring, screw down screws. On the other side, unscrew the plastic protection to “pinch” the copper end to secure it but let it make contact with the exposed aluminum battery tube, screw down crews, negative lead secured.
Make a bridge with a second wire to the positive spring and central battery contact.
Measure with a clamp meter.
Might works.
Yeah, but would it be accurate? You would need to run really heavy gauge wire (8ga, maybe even 4ga) to simulate metal to metal contact. Tricky.
I talked to TA and his prototype driver was drawing 25A-30A. This was not on the factory leds, though, as Banggood had not decided on what leds to run yet. I did not know this, but Banggood transitioned the driver design over to Lexel. So he made quite a few changes.
I’ll try to ask Lexel for some details.
I love the blue! Came out perfect.
Looks good. I got the Sand, but am really liking the look of that blue.
Btw, flat top batteries work perfectly fine in both of my lights. The contact point appears to be raised, i’m using molicel p26a’s in the 6500.
Now I'm glad I ordered a blue one, that looks great.
So far not a trace of copper, all brass.
After I removed the screws to take the prior photos whenever I untwist the body to lockout it started making a slight skip along metal noise as though the spring contact was catching and skipping when it touched the body brass center ring. The uppermost spring contact point appears to be the solder point for the wire bypass, which is not the best conductivity as far as I know and neither is brass compared to copper. Perhaps it had some slight lubrication that I removed.
Subsequently I flexed the spring around a bit, rather stiff and creaky when flexed. My concern would be long term use wearing down the contact points. Is there some type of lubrication that would be ok to use? Secondly how to improve contact point by perhaps soldering a thin copper disc on top of the spring or replacing the whole spring with a copper one. Any easy solutions or am I making too much of this. By the way I’m very pleased with the flashlight, simply open to easy improvements. Let me know if these issues are more appropriate in a different thread.
Which is the best photo host to use. I’ve tried Imgur and now flikr to no avail, or is there a minimum number of posts necessary to post images/
