Hmm, that might be fun. I do intend to make them for Mags at least. If made from 416SS they can be hardened to better than 36 rockwell C. I would need to get a vibratory polishing bowl and some polishing media to give them a proper finish. Wouldn’t want to see any tooling marks on a bezel.
Put me down for one, please!
How much is the shipping to germany!?
First of all, they look very nicely made! I would really like to see also a tripple version. A shame the International shipping is so high in your country.
But with the recent steady development of the driver firmware (great work there), I have no good feeling about permanently solder a driver to the pill.
Why not use the retaining ring approach of the original pill? It should be even possible to reuse the threaded retaining ring of the original brass pill.
Maybe a internal snap ring could be used to retain the driver, I have done this on my X6 copper pressed in pill, retaining a 26mm Mtn FETDD driver. It was easier cutting a internal ring groove, then making a threaded retaining ring and threading the pill? Just a thought?
Could the shelf of the pill perhaps be thicker. I think since a lot of us will be using FET drivers, I don’t think the extra space for the driver is necessary. It would be nice to have even more copper in the pill.
BTW, these are absolutely gorgeous!
I can share its drawing with you if this would make evaluating faster.
International ship to Poland First-Class Mail® International Large Envelope costs 9.20 only.
You can put me down for an S2+ also.
This pill looks beautifully done, but I already ordered some with spacer from kiriba.
Do you have any plans on making a heatsink/spacer for the Cu X5?
Does it make a difference which version? Some have “D” as the first character in the serial number; others don’t, sizes differ a bit internally
I am up for one S2+ Cu-sink.
And thanks for the terrific job on the emitter rings just received.
I wouldn’t call the solder permanent. Maybe use the stock pill for your testing needs and then use the copper sink for when you’ve figured out what your favorite UI is, or just use a pretty small amount of solder unlike my 2nd post where I used a ton of it. I’ll try to remove the driver from mine with some solder wick and see how much trouble it gives me. I think it will go ok.
My initial design had retaining ring threads but I talked about the design with someone who’s opinion I value and he said don’t bother. It wouldn’t be overly difficult to do but I would have to make the retaining ring also because the stock brass ring does not have good enough threads, I think. It would probably strip or cross thread the copper.
I’ll check and get back to you. It’s probably at least double what the heatsink costs. Because of this, international orders may have to wait for a distributor to get ahold of a batch.
I made the shelf a bit thicker than the stock shelf. The stock shelf is like .036”, [.9mm] I made it .050” thick. [1.25mm] With copper being so fast at spreading heat, (3x that of brass) and the thermal path being very short, I doubt there is any sort of a bottleneck happening, but it could be made thicker, sure.
Thanks. I’m going to buy one though. I know it’s doable.
Nope, no plans for that yet.
Yes. The really old mags without a D will require their own version. The difference in size of the ID bewteen a D and non D serial is like .010”. (.25mm) It would not be hard to accommodate this, but it’s doubtful anyone’s going to ask for it. Who’s going to put a high end heatsink in a beat up 20 year old mag if not just for a laugh? We’ll see though.
Good to hear!
Paypal sent for one sink. FWIW I prefer no retaining ring.
:–5 I represent that remark. I look in the scrap yard for old mags.
Haha. They’d probably still have a D serial tho.
Finished the first Convoy C8 pill. It’s the prototype so it’s a little crusty, and I forgot to put finishing passes in the bottom of the driver pocket so the tool marks are a bit heavy there. The wire holes are slots, which angle down into the driver pocket. This allows both 20mm or 16mm stars to be used. On the driver pocket side I put a cutout which effectively deburrs this feature. Aligning op1 features with op2 features is something machinists call “clocking.” Both the S2+ pills and C8 pills are clocked.
Too bad Convoy doesn’t make the light to take a pill anymore eh?
They look so nice and shiny and I was like: I want, I want and then I read “international shipping 37$” goddamn international shipping, can get 3xS2+ delivered, strap them together ang have ~3000 lumens S2+ triple for less than 37 freaking $ >:-#
Anyways, your cnc machining is so mesmerizing
Do not be mistaken, this pills are for single optics.
But if you like them to much, you can solder spacer to this pill and use triple tir.
yes yes, I know, triple noctinog is 20mm with center hole, I have several of those I just dont have pill for them for S2+
How much space do we need under a driver? .250” maybe? Right now there’s .340” which is pretty accommodating.
I removed a driver from the pill using solder wick. It’s doable but not something I’d want to do over and over that’s for sure.
There sure are a lot of ways to retain a driver in a pill. Crimps and tabs and solder and rings and spring and things. What about using micro-miniature screws around the perimeter to retain drivers? They would have to be smaller than 0-80 in the case of the S2+. …it would have to be a #000-120 requiring a T1 torx driver. The head of that screw is .066” diameter and .026” tall. The screw diameter is .034”. Could be used on any pill really. It’s too bad they cost .50¢ a screw.
I will do this.
Do most folks use the glass lens in front of the triple optic? That’s my preference.
The height of a Noctigon plus a carclo triple optic is .305” [7.75mm] or so. The lens+reflector+star on the standard S2+ assembly is .075” + .460” + .062” which is .597” [15.16mm]. That’s a difference of .292” [7.42mm] and would make for a pill that’s ~.8” [20.32mm] long instead of .51”. [12.95mm] If it were made .725” [18.7mm] long it could accommodate the stock glass pretty easily…