I think we’ll all agree it’s not as nice a fitting, but it’s not a deal breaker, and mine will be coming straight off any way since I hate clips.
You could Dremel it rounded/polish and reduce it slightly but be sure to leave it wider nearer the actual clip so as not to lose strength.
To be honest looking at what others have received it doesn’t look so bad as the photo you have posted? Have you actually received yours yet to see for yourself?
Well, if production clip is THAT ugly, it will be discarded immediately 
It was an attempt at making the point that adding grip to the battery tube makes the light easier to handle. But that was not obvious from this video I guess 
I love the production clip, the shape, the finish, and it bothers me not at all that it sticks out a tiny .5mm, looks perfectly nice to me, also knowing that that makes for a stronger clip.
I thought you were having a stroke
I’ve written a mini review looking at the strobe modes (with pictures):
Me too, the modified clip for my bezel up FW4A fits my NovaTac perfectly, wouldn’t mind getting a couple more….
It looks like you’re demonstrating how to flip the light around to press the button. :+1:
That’s pretty much how I feel when trying to use a Sunwayman V11R. It has controls on the side and the tail, and both are required to turn the light on and adjust the brightness.
That’s pretty good djozz… :+1: . But this guy ’may be’ a tiny bit more advanced.
If Lumitop plans to glue the tailcap in the final version, they had better be sure that they seat it properly at the factory, and that it only ever needs to be done once. If the inner tube is something that can come loose over time, that would cause big problems for most people if the tail is glued.
Sweet…. can I have it??
so if you decide to take the clip off, is that going to mess up the inner tube connections?
( i ask because it was mentioned how tight the tolerances are, removing the clip would seem like a big difference )
also, given that there is the extra connection path, how much trouble would it have been to add a lighted tail switch?
wle
Nah, he will fail miserably trying that with a FW3A 
No, taking off the clip will not “mess up” the connection. Just be sure to retighten the tailcap first & completely after removing the clip.
No idea about the lighted tailcap
+1 … Yep, glued would be a huge problem if it wasn’t exactly 100% at time of gluing.
Personally, I hope they leave it unglued (at least thru the total duration of the GB… ) … Because tightening a tailcap is a very, very easy thing to do.
Can you make a lighted tail switch from scratch? Very few can. You’d also need to fabricate a new button or machine the existing one. It seems like a job for only the most advanced modders.
Just fyi, these are the #'s I got on the 3D and 7A measured to top of ramp (max 7135 bank), fresh VTC6 cells:
- 3A: 930 at start, 744 at 30 secs (mauka calibrated)
- 7A: 705 at start, 519 at 30 secs (mauka calibrated)
The droppage at 30 secs is attributed to thermal stepdown - factory defaults are aggressive on thermal protection. The first few seconds the output held up well, then definite step downs occurred. The #'s at start are more representative.
I need to re-do these tests after upping the temperature limit. At first I was somewhat upset a dbl click from OFF does not go to full max/turbo, instead goes to max ramp, but for this light, it makes a lot of sense since it probably can handle the heat of max ramp pretty well.
I don't have a problem with how far out the stock clip is. My preference though is for deep pocket clips. The stock Sunwayman C20C clip sticks out way further than the FW3A's.
Another note on the tints:
Last night I did take both lights out, and the big difference I noticed is how green the grass looks with the 3D, and how brownish it looked with the 7A. On brick, the 7A does better in bringing out the colors, but green plants and grass, the 3D is awesome. Something to consider...
i’m not a modder - i was just wondering if it was considered and dropped, what were reasons for and against?
or never even considered
it’s more of a question about design decisions, than ‘how would i do it’
wle
Bout the lighted tailcap, there's no batt+ available at the tail so not so easy to do, well impossible in this design. Modders like CRX are using a trit and GITD stuff.