People still don’t get that a LED needs to be/has to be judged by eyes and a picture just give a rough idea.
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A FW3A with a Toykeeper logo ?! Sweet ! And totally deserved.
So when I suggested a TK logo, I was a visionary. :sunglasses:
Still wonder why there isn’t an unanodized FW3A since this is popular around here. By requests recently : Fireflies E07, Sofirn C01S, LuckySun BLF-D80 v2.
There’s a photo of a prototype Ti-Cu model a few pages back in this thread next to the copper prototype.
Considering the full copper is already available for order, I suspect the Ti-Cu won’t be that far away (it’s like the Ti-Cu Emisar D4 - copper head, titanium bezel, body tube and tail).
Damn, aftermarket trits are already in the works…and here I thought I was being fancy planning to add 3 in the glow gasket. Does the orange gasket really glow yellow or was that a trick of color temp exposure?
You know you want to get all available color options for the FW3A so you lego the parts with a purple bezel, copper head, blue body tube and titanium tailcap!
Well, I thought the beam shot photos Taschenlampen made for the Zebralights I ended up getting to be fairly representative. I’ve got the 3D emitter bin in my FW3A and the beam photo doesn’t look unjust to me. Naturally there are some deviations to keep in mind like screen calibration and subject matter. Do you have a different beam shot example of the 7A?
I think he’s saying that a 3000K tint beamshot, using a 5000K color-balance on the camera, isn’t a fair representation of what your eyes see.
When I use the 7A FW3A in a dark room, it looks white. Perhaps a little warmish, but certainly not orange like it does in the photo.
If I use it in the daytime, sure, it looks orange. But that’s because my eyes are expecting somewhere around a 6000K color. But again, it doesn’t look that way at night when it’s the only light source. Our eyes adapt. Photos don’t.