Look under the price where is says “stock” and “quantity”. There is a drop down box that let’s you choose which FW3A you want. It lists 50 something Lumintop lights, but only 2 FW3A and the exact emitter is not specified, just NW and CW. It’s not very clear. Maybe they will update it soon.
Muggle mode in my FW3A works wrong. Before temperature sensor calibration it jumped down to low from any power during 0-5 sec after switch on or power regulation. After calibration of temperature sensor and setting limit to 45 - In normal mode FW3A is hot, but in muggle mode it is barely warm when reset to low.
High winds forecast for tonight and power company might cut off power. So charged some 18650’s for one of the FW3As & the BLF A6, plus some 26650s for the D4S and cat v6. Ready for evening! Love living in the mountains - every day is an adventure.
Sounds about right. ToyKeeper said Muggle Mode activates sooner and is a bit janky.
So it blinks out the correct room temp now, but still steps down when barely warm?
The nichia is lovely, but gets hit even faster thank 3D. I’ll get pics up on the other forum tomorrow
Yes. And when increase in Max after step down - it will not step down more time.
But FW3A works without step down and turns really warm when power in Muggle Mode is slightly below max.
wow are u not scared? 
No, our ancestors lived for thousands of years without electricity (and flashlights). But flashlights help us see nature at night. Last night it was a fox, three deer and a jack rabbit that would have been unseen without the lights. These lights are nice looking and fun, but most of all useful. Power is back on now. Thanks for asking.
Where i can buy this? Discount Code?
Try cranking the limit up to 55C.
45C is really too low, IMO.
If you crank it up to 70C it will still step down at about 45-55C ,it will get to 70 C if you keep turboing it.
… and if you set it to 70 C and use a medium-high mode instead of turbo, or if you just wait longer, it’ll generally get up to 70 C.
The thermal response isn’t just tied to the current temperature; it also depends on the rate of change. So 50 C and rising very quickly might trigger a ramp-down, but so would 65 C and rising slowly.
Basically, it tries to steer into turns early instead of waiting until it has already missed the turn. When it’s moving slowly, it can wait until the last minute to make an adjustment… but when it’s moving quickly, it’s important to start making adjustments early.
Also, there’s a lot of noise in the measurements, so it can react at the wrong times. But that’s pretty much resolved in newer firmware. It has really strong noise reduction now, which makes it more consistent.
I was a bit disappointed with the eagerness & aggressive step down on the FW3A & the D18 ,compared to the D4 & D4S , maybe I will like the updated version better.
Thank you so much for the reply TK. Its very confusing to have this problem! I also remember that my A6 had an issue on the FET in moonlight mode where the LED would look purple, which I doubt will happen here as well. There are so many variables in LEDs! Thanks for educating me on DUV, guess it what I will look for instead of the BBL, or the CRI, just tint and DUV on low levels.
At nealsgadgets, use this code
USE COUPON:NDFW3A for 20% OFF
The FW3A thermal control is much better than with Narsil in lights like the Astrolux S43. It’s not like Zebralight’s thermal control (probably the best out there), but it’s better than I expected.
Does the brightness go back up when it’s cooled a bit like zebra lights do ?
Yes, Anduril uses a PID controller just like ZL. The difference is (or I believe is) that Anduril is coded in such a way that it works on MOST lights very well, but the low thermal mass nut roasters are a much more difficult subject to handle. TK has a few extra precautions built in to Anduril for such lights such as the THERM_HARD_TURBO_DROP and the THERM_FASTER_LEVEL parameter.
Edit: just flashed the 6/2/2019 build of Anduril to my FW3A. I really like the 2 step lockout.
Please edit your post to remove code and reply jdavid107 by PM. Codes are not supposed to be posted openly like this, or it risks Neal’s discount arrangements.
Pretty sure that code is the public code; should be ok to post it.