FW3A Troubleshooting / FAQ

You flashed the latest firmware or the latest FW3A firmware?

Can’t you just try it and see if it works?

Doesn’t the description tell you the features that version has?

I don’t understand why your asking this.

I have the latest fw3a firmware. I have not found change logs or other revision history on bazaar yet. That is why I am asking.

And if you do 13 clicks, does it work?

https://code.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/fsm

http://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/fsm/changes/

Does not do anything I can see…

That’s it, the second link! For some reason I had never found that folder. Can ya tell, I am a network engineer, not a programmer? Code when I have to, not when i want to.

Try changing the settings. Maybe make the ramp levels super narrow. Then try the factory reset and see if the ramp levels are back to stock. Or maybe change stepped mode to 5 steps. Something you can notice.

I’ve obviously never experienced the FW3A with the factory reset, so I don’t know how you activate it. Just 13 fast clicks?

You can try both reset methods. When it does reset it blinks quickly for a few seconds and turns off (or goes to low/moon?) while you are holding the button.

FW3A physical design has changed. Unknown when all inventory will switch over. Command tube has been extended. Tailcap added retaining ring, nub is now white and bigger.

Not sure what difference the new nub will make (white better able to shed heat? :wink: ) but the retaining ring is a smart move in case people continue to neglect the warnings and open the tail to replace the battery.

Noticed this too. I bought 10 of them, some are newer revision while others are older.

Is the groove depth in the battery tube at the tail cap end the same or present on the newer design?

To me this is by far the best improvement that Lumintop would have done to the original design. :+1:
Would have prefered a (taller) real e-switch instead of a membran switch tough. As an e-switch wouldn’t need a nubbin, the increase in height would be not that much.

Alright folks, I seem to have deleted the brighter level when the light is in lockout. It will do moonlight only. Doesn’t matter if its locked out from stepped ramp or from smooth ramp. Its not in momentary, I’ve disconnected power, and attempted the ramping reset as noted in previous posts. Any ideas on how to get it back?

Just checked on my FW3A, wanted to post that there is no second mode in lockout, looks like I was wrong. There is none if you floor in smooth ramp is set to 1 (moon) as it uses the floor of your ramp as secondary mode.

Reset the stepped floor level to your desired 2nd stage lockout brightness.
Go to spepped mode
Quad click, light will begin to stutter.
Click number of times that corrosponds to brightness you want.
Let it time out
Triple click to go back to smooth ramp mode.
Lock out and test.

Thanks C_K! I set the smooth ramp floor to the same as the stock stepped ramp floor (20) and now have two levels in lockout.

But it seems to be operating backwards from what was stated in the quoted post above and how I thought it operated before I started changing settings. Now, lockout in stepped ramping; click = moon, click/hold = floor (brighter). Lockout in smooth ramping; click = floor (brighter), click/hold = moon. Not a huge issue, just trying to figure out if I switched something.

When locked, the first click is the floor of the mode you’re in, and the second click is the floor of the other mode.
If you switch modes (ramped vs. stepped), the order when locked out switches, too.

my board, somehow not function, i’ve checked, the board ring (spring side) is not connected to center of the switch, is there any way to fix the switch board

does the light flash, when you are screwing it together after taking apart?

also (not to be too obvious), but you need to hold the button down to test continuity -

  • the spring side will not connect to the other side, unless the button is pressed, it is a momentary connection…

right?

anyone?

wle