FWAA - a blast from the past

I know, the people who have been in the scene for longer than me will probably laugh at me giving this title to a post about a FWAA - but since I started being interested in flashlights beyond “I own and use a single 18650 light”, the FW** series had been long discontinued, and to me they were always something special. A type of light I would probably never own, with a somewhat unique, elegant design.

That was until a few days ago when I decided I needed a EDC that is smaller than a S2+ 18350, and I did not find any 14500 light that combined features and design language I felt like having. Then @INeedMoreLumens got me fixed on finding a FWAA somewhere, and eventually, thanks to @manfred I found a German shop that still had some aluminum FWAAs stocked. I called them to ask about shipping (their store system quoted me a ridiculous price) and apart from fixing the shipping cost bug the owner mentioned they might still have a TiCu FWAA somewhere in the warehouse that they only unpacked once for a video - needless to say, I was sold.

Today it showed up, and while it is absolutely gorgeous, there were a few things that did bother me:

  • Weird smell of some strange lubricant, mixed with coppery smell
  • Copper was tarnishing unequally, probably because the light was only touched a few times, so not all the copper came in contact with skin
  • VERY scratchy e-switch
  • LEDs. 4000K 219C that for some reason looked way colder than they should, and kinda green.
  • Beam. Too floody.
  • The driver. Lumintop, pls. FET+1 with wack Anduril and weird configs. Ugh.

Wouldn’t be me if I did not tear the light apart right away. The first point was actually an easy fix - I disassembled the flashlight entirely, and scrubbed all parts with 99.9% isoprop, removing any lubricant. After carefully cleaning the copper part with paper towels and isoprop, I used some very thin “corrosion inhibiting” penetrating oil (similar in properties and smell to Ballistol) on the copper - hoping this should keep it from staining too quickly or badly, and therefore generating the (to me unpleasant) smell of oxidizing copper again.

The LEDs were swapped for dedomed 519A - sadly the only 519A I had 3 of at hand were 5700K. This makes the light a bit colder than I originally had planned for, but hey. Definitely better than the OG LEDs, and a pleasantly neutral beam. I gotta stock up on LEDs again these days. This was the first time I used my Felder SAC305 for LEDs, it worked really well. Since I had no idea how much paste I’d need I applied too much, but the left over paste just flowed out to the sides, forming solder beads, and the LEDs all sit flat and even. I accidentally ripped a pad off the MCPCB (actually, I touched it with the soldering iron and pad and wire got off together), so I scratched off a bit of mask and made a new “pad”.

Fixing the button was a quick job as well - I applied some Krytox 105 on the button, which then was pulled into the gap and resulted in a thin lubricating film along the button-to-tailcap surface. The remaining oil I cleaned off with some isoprop again. Threads and orings were generously lubricated with Krytox 205g0. The Krytox stuff, often used in the custom keyboard scene, is perfluoropolyether oil and PTFE based lubricants that are chemically inert - not attacking or reacting with any plastic, rubber or metal, and not reacting with oxygen either. This results in very long-lived and safe lubricants that are not harming either the flashlight nor humans (most lubricants from this series are even food grade certified). This comes with a price tag to match, but I already have them due to keyboards anyway, so why not use them for flashlights as well.

There is nothing I can do about the driver for now, since I managed to lose my USBASP, and the old Tiny85 can not yet be flashed via UDPI like newer chips. I also do not want to waste too much time on it - I do not intend keeping a FET+1 driver in my EDC light, and will replace it with a proper driver when I find a chance. thefreeman made a very tempting FWAA boost driver, of which I may order a small batch. We will see, I have other, more urgent projects that require (financial) attention for now.

Another point is the (very) floody beam, here compared to a 20° pebbled TIR with a B35AM in a Convoy S2+. Not sure if the image with non-fixed exposure and not exactly matched brightness does any justice, but the FWAA is a lot more floody than the S2+, despite using dedomed 519As - the most throwy high CRI 3535 LEDs I know of.

I am considering dropping in a TS10 lens with a custom MCPCB, or maybe go crazy and try sanding a 20mm Carclo down to 17mm - this would lose a lot of light, but in return I would gain great throw. I have not decided yet.

For now I am happy with the FWAA the way it is - all cleaned, with 519A, and with a Lumintop USB-C 14500 cell, since USB charging is a must on a EDC light for me. I did not manage to accidentally kick in the protections of the cell so far, and once I put a proper DC-DC driver into this light, I will configure it not to load the cell too much anyway.

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Which driver version did you end up with? V1.1 or v2.2?

A FW3A with a 18350 tube may be another option for you. It uses standard Carclo 105xx Optics.

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V2.2, the dumb one where I couldn’t even put a T1616 adapter in because it has QFN.

The FWAA was chosen mainly for diameter, not for length - length wise even the 18350 S2+ would be okay, but it was thick enough to bother me in the pocket. FWAA is great in that regard :slight_smile:

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Outstanding Mod!

Congrats and thanks for sharing, including the Great photos :wink:

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I need one with thefreeman driver…damnit :heart_eyes:

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It’s basically a D3AA driver lite edition… Dual fuel, similar efficiency, just an older chip and not the fancy new avr32dd thingies. I really want one. Or two, I might grab an alu FWAA at some point :smiley:

I know perfectly… i assembled one driver from myself…so much pain… but, my FWAA now is gorgeous.
I need another one in TiCu :grin:

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Oh, yeah, I’m debating if I wanna suffer through manual assembly or not :joy:

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I loved the FWAA so much that I bought a second :smile:

The TiCu is gorgeous, but it is fairly heavy and I don’t like the coppery smell on my EDC, so when I saw an alu one for sale on the German TLF I bought it immediately.

Both have the v1.1 driver, and the better optic with glass lens. The new one is 4000K 219C.

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Did you find a new driver for the TiCu? Earlier you said it had v2.2, If so… where?

Oops, I misremembered. TiCu is still 2.2, Al is 1.1. I am planning to replace both, however.

Planned mods:

  • Boost driver from thefreeman
  • Custom MCPCB with 3S LEDs
  • Custom AUX PCB with 6 RGB LEDs
  • TS10 lens
  • 1.5mm glow in the dark oring that should, together with a 0.6mm spacer, offset the thinner MCPCB and thicker lens.
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Cool. I was just reading up on thefreeman’s boost driver. That seems like the route to go to update the v2.2 (which my Al has).

How does one know which driver a FWAA has? What is the difference. I got one recently, but have no clue what it has, or what the differences are.

If you unscrew the head, you should see the driver revision printed on the inside next to the spring.

v1.1 has a SO-8 attiny85 that can be replaced with a QFN attiny1616 + small adapter, giving you 3 wire flashing and AUX capability. v2.2 has a QFN attiny85 that can not be replaced with anything useful easily, needs a USBASP or similar for updates and has too little IO for RGB AUX.

Both driver versions are crappy FET+1, however.

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Thanks. I checked. Mine has 2.2.

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Oh, I forgot I also did the o-ring switch mod. I only had 2mm thick orings that did not fit properly, so I halved them with a sharp box cutter knife (essentially making one 2mm into two more flat 1mm orings) - now the buttons work perfectly. Apparently half a 2mm oring is just right. Note: on the pics they are still not cut in half yet.

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So, I have already hinted at it, but now it’s getting more concrete. I will order PCBs and parts for the dual fuel 9V boost driver from thefreeman (huge thanks again for letting me use your design!), which is mostly the same super efficient tech as the D3AA has, just with an older processor (T1616).

I designed both a 3S LED MCPCB (which will be made from alu for cost reasons, hope that will suffice cooling-wise) and an aux LED PCB with 6 RGB LEDs to fit inside the head of the FWAA - however, not with the default lens (which is too floody for my taste), but with a TS10 TIR lens. I think I posted these renders over in my electronics corner already, but they fit better in with this post.

The TS10 lens should give more throw than the stock lens. According to my math (with info found across the web and measured off my FWAA) with the aux PCB serving as a 0.6mm spacer between the LED PCB and the lens as well as a thicker 1.5mm oring the TS10 lens should fit perfectly with the OG 1mm front glass lens. The spacer is also compensating for the TS10 using very slim CSP2323 LEDs and therefore keeping the lens from squashing the domes on e.g a 519A.

My plan is to order enough PCBs/parts to convert 5 full lights:

  • thefreeman 9V boost driver, PCBs and components
  • 1.6mm 3S Alu LED PCB (3535 footprint)
  • 0.6mm aux LED PCB, with 6 RGB LEDs
  • 19x1.5mm GITD orings
  • Wurkkos TS10 lenses

With all parts and shipping and customs I should end up around 120 bucks, so ~25 bucks per light.

I only need 2 full sets - would some of the users here be interested in buying some of the remaining modding bundles from me as a full set (driver, lens, led/aux PCB, thicker orings)? If you take it all unassembled and want to solder yourself, I’d be selling at cost, just to recoup some of the money lost on PCBs I don’t have a use for. I do not want to profit off someone else’s work, so making a profit with thefreemans drivers is not somethint I want to do.

I guess I could also assemble them, but it’ll be a drag, so I have yet to see how much I am annoyed after assembling my 2 drivers before deciding whether I will offer assembly too.

Once I have the parts all here and tested I will actually offer them up for sale, just gouging if there is any interest at all rn.

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I am for sure interessed for 1 or 2 kit !!!

just found a fwaa ti and an alu fwaa (with 1.1 driver) and would love to update them.

Driver either parts or depending the price, assembled one :wink:

I will follow your journey with great attention :fire:

edit: i am in France

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Funny. I was interested but just sold my Fwaa ti last week. Sigh.

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I’ve had the stock FWAA optic, dedome 2 sets of 519A so far.

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