GB BLF LuckySun D80-SE Need long tubes? -3/3/16

[kronological]

GearBest is getting more stock of the BLF D80-SE! GB codes still good! They have longer tubes, but they are mixed in with the other stock. If you need a longer tube, you might ask for the longer version when you place the order…but no guaranted you will get it. Or…you might just order an extra long tube and be sure to get it if you need it. Long tubes are very cheap at under $3.

The 1A, 3C and 5A units are in and ready to ship. There are two different codes.

The code for 1A and 3C tints is: BLFD80CM

The code for 5A tint is: D805ACM

Link to all lights and long tube: http://www.gearbest.com/blf-\_gear/

Individual links to 1A & 3C:

BLF D80 Cree XM L2 1A 1100Lm LED Flashlight 6500 – 7000K – 1A (Code: BLFD80CM)
http://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_139171.html

BLF D80 Cree XM L2 3C LED Flashlight – 3C (Code: BLFD80CM)
http://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_139172.html

BLF D80 Cree XM L2 5A LED Flashlight (Code: D805ACM)
http://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_244835.html

price: $20.59

Thanks,
krono
(Updated in OP)

[MEM]

@DB Custom

De-doming on BLF has come a long way since the days of pump-gasoline use. We discovered some time back that using the heat of the emitter itself to pop the dome results in a much cleaner light output. This is done by removing the reflector, complete disassembly isn’t required and in fact, the assembled light is the path of de-dome. A dozen lights can be de-domed usually in about 60 seconds each (or less). No smell, no waiting.

Chemical de-doming is so 8 months ago.

BS.

You guys just don’t know what chemical to use.

:bigsmile:

I’ll bring my camera to the light shop and show what a proper chemical, clear in nature, does for dedoming. I have to go there tonight, actually. The chemical does the work, does not change tint. Guys using gas first off are doing some things which lead to the problems it has when done wrong. I can use gas alone and do a dedome well without any tint change. The difference is now I do not, though. The excessive amount of additives in gas are solid in nature when dry. They will fill the porous crystalline structure of phosphor, and pulling a die from gas out into the air is my first tip on how to make a mistake in that process. But straight gas is so 8 years ago.

Silicone on the phosphor, if done with a hot dedome, how do you deal with that? A dozen in 60 seconds would worry the crap out of me. Heh. I have machine vision at the shop to look at bond wires, and I have seen bond wires disconnected, that look connected, even resting back near the original solder joint; using a loupe beforehand it can be missed if it pulls off the right way to fool. I do not like tension on bond wires.

[MEM]

@robo819

@MEM

Guys, I make the rings, see below:

They snap right on.

Do they come in white also?

I can make them in about any color you want; black, white, red, green, blue. I can print them from nylon (opaque-off-white), too, but I still have to check how nylon will work at the thickness of a reflector disc.

OK, here’s my request for the D80. A 2x 18650 D80 is kinda fugly. A 2x 18350 is nice, but runtime is low. What’s in between the two is the series tube we need, IMO, 2x 18500. The light would not resemble the shadow of a broom and 8.4V (2x18500)= full output from every emitter used.

[Tom_E]

@Sharpie

Certainly not with the standard driver :~

No - either zener type mod to use a 6V LED, or a high amp buck driver to get decent amps from a XP-G2 -- these are just two options, sure there's more. For me the high amp buck driver would be nice to get the max from a XP-G2.

I've seen hot dedome LED tints and gas dedome LED tints, and honestly can't see a difference. Might have to do with freshness or local quality of the gas and/or over extending it's bath, or general handling, etc. I always rinse off the LED thoroughly in 90+% isopropyl alcohol asap after taking it out of the gas, I mean directly squirting it on, soaking it. Dunno if it's good or bad to do, but the tint shifting seems to do more with the individual LED or LED batch.

I've seen awful, I mean bad tints from hot dedomes done by a pro at hot dedoming, so I know hot dedoming can significantly tint shift, same as gas. I really like the way these new XP-G2's and XP-L's are looking dedomed, even in gas. Again, I've done recent gas and hot dedomes -- no pattern to higher/lower amps or tint shifts that I could find.

I agree though the time savings can be huge, so I'll probably continue doing both methods.

[robo819]

CREE XM-L2 U4 1A LED on Noctigon 20mm MCPCB

Check the “Dedome” option right under the picture of the emitter and pop it in when you get it.

[Tom_E]

@Sharpie

Any suggestions ?

Ahh, not sure what you are asking suggestions of? Dedoming? Think you are in the UK, so MtnE may not be cost effective. I authored the thread "A Perfect dedome?", might want to check it out, for history's sake at least . Lots of info on hot dedoming on BLF, including a pretty good video made by vinh - don't have the link off hand, but sure you can search BLF for it. Dale might have authored a video on hot dedoming as well, not sure.

Again, lots of variations out there and guys doing what they are comfortable with. Experimenting with chemicals is beyond me, and my attempt wasn't successful if you read my OP in the perfect dedome thread .

[ReManG]

@Sharpie

Nope, just want a good XML-2, sensible forward voltage (capable of more current), neutral or warm tint, dome on, on a Noctigon, as a direct replacement.

I don’t think this reflector is much good for a de-dome from what I briefly observed.

Otherwise I would be tempted by a Nichia high CRI, expecting to replace the 000 resistors with something to set the current at a safe level.

Otherwise it’s time to learn how to change the LED on my existing Noctigon.

How warm do you like? I ordered and am waiting on some XM-L2 T2 8B4 from Simon (Convoy flashlights owner) on his store on Aliexpress. They are on holiday now, but check the link HERE after the 5th of Feb. I figured I would give an “8” series tint a throw and these were all I could find… Had to get the Noctigons seperately, so there is that as well.

I am going to try them in the D80 and a FET driven Thorfire TG05 I have. I want a campfire light, when I turn it on, everyone starts pulling out marshmallows and searching for pointy sticks…

[chuckhov]

Yeah - Cree 8B4… That’s time to get out the marsh mellows.

Enjoy!

-Chuck

[foolioGrimz]

I did my first spring bypass today on my d80. I was clumsy and dropped a blob of solder between switch battery terminal and the retaining ring, doh! Tried as I could, I couldn’t get that ring to budge to make everything more açcessable but I managed to get everything right eventually. I also bypassed the drive by soldering led - directly to ground ring on driver. I’m impressed with the gains these simple modifications accomplished. Now she gets hot and great improvement in light output. I’m thinking about changing the led to u4 bin from mountain electronics. Would there be a noticeable improvement from that? I also have come to realize that I like the 1a d80 that I ordered for my wife better. The one I have looks like failed imitation of incan tint to me with a noticeable amount of green. How much of a difference is there between 1a and 1cc? Does the 1c have as much green as the 3c?

[vjik]

@Sharpie

Update on my (self induced) melted centring ring leading to un-planned de-dome:

Found a thin red-fibre washer that fits exactly around the LED die.

Glued it onto the back of the reflector after very careful centring. (Temporary fix with bits of tape until perfect, then some tiny drops of superglue).

Careful fitting, sanding down, re-fitting etc until it fitted perfectly with the bezel almost but not quite bottomed out.

A dollop of Arctic Silver under the star, then time to test. Laptop pull used initially.

Oh dear, near field beam looked like the rings of Saturn around the hotspot.

But backing off, beyond six feet or so it is quite nice, except for one ring around the hotspot.

I think it may be coming from the transition between the flat bottom of the reflector, and the (parabolic ?) part.

The hotspot is tight, and remains tight at long distance, so its near enough focussed.

As Dale predicted, my naptha de-dome has changed the tint, considerably warmer, but yes there is the tiniest hint of green.

Left it to “burn in” on turbo for 15 mins, got noticeably warmer at the head than in original state.

The out with the Efest 35A at 4.19V and multimeter with short stout leads to measure tail current.

One brief flash, and that was that.

Driver is working, there’s 4.19V across the LED.

Difficult to tell under x10 loupe, but I think the bond wires have gone.

So I do not recommend a de-dome of this LED

Lesson learned.

PS: anyone got a suitable LED on a star going spare ?

PPS: I can confirm that the head of the torch is fully anodised inside.

So the only current path to the driver is through that shouldered securing ring.

Looks like it was a cost reduction exercise to eliminate a masking step during anodisation. Without it fitted the head screws down an extra turn, so I’ll be looking to grind the shoulder down as much as I dare, when I rebuild it.

Any photos?

[Tom_E]

@Sharpie

Nope, just want a good XML-2, sensible forward voltage (capable of more current), neutral or warm tint, dome on, on a Noctigon, as a direct replacement. I don’t think this reflector is much good for a de-dome from what I briefly observed. Otherwise I would be tempted by a Nichia high CRI, expecting to replace the 000 resistors with something to set the current at a safe level. Otherwise it’s time to learn how to change the LED on my existing Noctigon.

K - a T6-4C, I'd recommend it - high amps (I get over 6A), nice tint. The new U3-3D isn't bad - I'm using them now, but won't get as high amps as even a U4, but probably same lumens as the T6 4C using a lot less amps (2 bin bump helps). Hhmm, think best amps from the U3-3D is bout 4-4.5A or so??

The 5C1 tint (bout all the 5's) are my favorite tint. I tried warmer XM-L2's, but don't care for them much.

Source: http://intl-outdoor.com/led-xml2-c-107_136.html?page=1&sort=20a -- best source for LED's, non-US.

[MEM]

@Sharpie

I don’t think this reflector is much good for a de-dome from what I briefly observed.

Otherwise I would be tempted by a Nichia high CRI, expecting to replace the 000 resistors with something to set the current at a safe level.

I’ve got all dedomes to work and Nichia 219Cs actually with those 3D printed spacers above. The spacing problem is a minor shift in Z axis reflector height when dedomed, but easily adjusted by the spacer.

I’ve been busy as heck with assembly of D80s, but I’ve been getting beamshots ready and some specifications tested between 4 or 5 LED configurations that work in the light with the stock reflector, and with a custom lens type I had designed that provides a small degree of smooth natural flood (~13°) with a very focused XP-G2 die image (~5°).

The front lens protectors I messed around with, one design I made inadvertently reminded me of a jet engine exhaust or nozzle on a fighter jet in some context. Whoops. But, I ran with it anyways.

[Tom_E]

@Sharpie

Any pointers where to get one ? Preferably already on a suitable star. UK.

Uhh yes, that's why I gave you the IOS link? There's also James from BLF in the UK selling LED's mounted on copper, not sure bout thread/website or exact BLF name (think it was changed). He's probably under commercial vendors here.

Edit: Look'n real good MEM!

[robo819]

@Tom E

@Sharpie

Any pointers where to get one ? Preferably already on a suitable star. UK.

Uhh yes, that’s why I gave you the IOS link? There’s also James from BLF in the UK selling LED’s mounted on copper, not sure bout thread/website or exact BLF name (think it was changed). He’s probably under commercial vendors here.

He goes under the name of 3Tronics now

[Tom_E]

I'm clueless - the link is Hank at Intl-Outdoor - free int'l shipping, located in China..?? I've got dozens of orders with him over the past 3 years - great service, the most reliable retail source for CREE LED's for the last 3+ years.

[Tom_E]

Mandatory tracking? Never heard or saw that before from Hank - you UK guys must be get'n punished for something... For IOS, our tracking fee is $2 optional, and for over $80 orders, it's free.

I've bought hundreds of LED's from IOS, lots from FT and other vendors. For FT, throw the dice - sometimes they are what they say they are, you could get lucky. We have learned to stay away from alum stars years ago, but it is a budget forum. Good for under 1A in my opinion, some say as high as 2A but I've measured the lumens loss's at 2A, so for me it's worth the $2 or so to put a LED on something decent.

With Hank it's guaranteed you will get what is advertised. He is my favorite vendor by far - that includes any US based vendor. He is honest, knows what he's talking about, pretty good comm. skills, willing to help you out, etc., etc. Believe me I've tried many times to save a few bucks by buying LED's elsewhere and I always seem to return to Hank. I will still buy certain specific LED's from FastTech or Simon on Ali, or KD, etc., but at much less risk of money or by recommendations.

[vjik]

@Sharpie

@vjik

Any photos?

No, alas poor D80 I knew him.

Unless you want to see a piccy of a red fibre washer ?

Yes, i Do

[vjik]

today made 12ga leads about 20 cm long. Chinese no brand DMM.

High current measurements on the tail - 2.7A

[MEM]

@Tom E

Edit: Look’n real good MEM!

Thank you Tom E. I’ve put a lot of work into these, over 6 hours everyday testing the files, tossing out designs, adjusting new ones, so fit is near exact.

What I like is actually how the bezel glows blue or whatever color made in, but the blue I like a lot. It cuts glare off from the front, too. Those are the production bezels I’m using, though.

I have tested over 60 D80s now, and there are only like 2 that were shoddy.

[Tom_E]

Wow, figured there'd be lots of tinkering but that's intense. Is the throw #'s still on target? Think you mentioned 250 kcd.

I modded up the one D80 I got (stock reflector), and it came out sooo nice, had to order another. It's a really nice form factor light - grows on you. Sure out throws a reflector X6 easy because it maximized reflector I.D. for the head width - X6's are wasteful on ID width, not as good for throw, but great for lumens output.

I wrote up firmware for the ATTiny25 I'm running on the D80 - 4 modes including moon, intense strobes, beacon and battery voltage that blinks out. Because it has short cycle memory, you don't have to cycle thru the blinkies - works really well with this light. "Short cycle memory" is mode memory, but when you start changing modes, instead of going to the next mode, it starts with the first/lowest mode.