New guy with newbie question…
How does the BLF D80 compare with the BLF X6? Not asking beam shot comparisons, but rather where do they fit in the line up? What is the niche? What differentiates the two from each other?
New guy with newbie question…
How does the BLF D80 compare with the BLF X6? Not asking beam shot comparisons, but rather where do they fit in the line up? What is the niche? What differentiates the two from each other?
Do any of you see a time where a company would consider selling just the upgraded head for something like this D80?
I mean what could be easier than screwing on a new head?
Easier than a drop in and would be great for members who do not own a soldering iron or just do not want to do a mod.
Just a thought.
Later,
Keith
This is an easy-to-ask question, maybe not so easy to answer.
My measured #'s of stock BLF X6 vs. BLF D80, both on Samsung 30Q @4.21v:
X6 has 5% lower lumens, but 31% lower throw. Keep in mind a 1A should be be about 15%-20% brighter.
Head Diameters - D80: 41.6 mm. X6: 40.0 mm
Reflector Inner Diameter - D80: 34.0 mm, X6: 29.5 mm
The 15% bigger ID makes a nice improvement in throw.
I am in.
Tom E,
Thank you very much. Even though not easy to answer, you did it great! This was very helpful - both the specific two lights and for helping me understand variables in lights.
Mr.Scott
Are your lumen measurements for comparison purposes only (relative to one another)?
If they are intended as absolute measurements, both numbers seem low when compared to other reports.
And the 19kcd for the BLF X6 seems way off. By eye, my BLF X6 throws a much tighter and more intense beam than my BLF D80. Could you have mixed up the numbers with the BLF X5?
BLF D80
BLF X6
Thanks,
I used one of these and sanded it to about half thickness……… http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_82&product_id=174
Your references are not relative to how I understood the question - question was on the “BLF X6”, not the SS/Cu Rev 2 version - night and day. Emitters and drivers are different. Lumens is in my PVC light box – same exact design and builder as Dale’s. Our #'s have compared very close over the years with using the same light box, same meter, over many comparative lights. The SS/Cu or alum “KRONOS” X6 is a different animal in cost and function - XPL HI emitter and higher amps with our BLF FET+1 driver. The original BLF X6 was not so good in amps. Also for Dale’s D80, I’ve gotten two BLF D80’s and both performed much poorly that Dale’s in amps. Been through the ringer testing the first BLF D80, and best I could tell it was an under-achieving LED emitter. Also my lumens is quoted at 30 secs - not sure what Dale quoted. He tends to quote the instant startup reading on his hot rod lights - I’m attempting to do it the recommended way, as we all used to. These #'s were freshly taken yesterday, and have no reason to doubt them.
Edit: Hhhmm. I checked the lumens I measured back in January on the 1st D80, a 3C tint version, and it was about 1100 lumens for about the same amps measured -- I'll do some sanity checks and testing on my lumens measurements -- I'm about 175 lumens lower now. The problem with these type of group buys is we have no assurance of the LED bin used - they won't tell us, and therefore, things can change in batch production. Also I could have gotten a low performing light, or something wrong that's restricting output --- I'll double check all of it this evening. I got lights with known output I can check, then review this D80 unit specifically - might be something in the tail or the LED.
Edit #2:
Did a bunch of re-tests last night, and seems like something did go astray with the D80 measurements the first time, quoted above. Dunno, am using a different Samsung 30Q cell now, and maybe the room temperature had an effect (1st readings done a few degrees cooler at 61F), but that wouldn't explain it all. The battery is suspicious because even the tail amps is up now.
New measurements, D80 (stock 1A tint):
On a Samsung 30Q @4.21v: 4.05A measured at the tail w/clamp meter:
lumens: 1088 @start, 1037 @30 secs, throw: 31 kcd, taken at 5m (352 meters)
The BLF X6 stayed the same as the earlier readings in lumens and throw. Again, this is an original BLF X6 from the original BLF X6 group buy. There are many X6's around, some by Eagle Eye, some by Manker, and various driver/emitter combos, so several choices are available now.
Btw, the BLF D80 I ordered on Jan 26th (the one tested here) came with the long battery tube , so guess they've been shipping them for a while now.
Stock, this D80 can really throw for it's size!
Thanks, Tom. I missed that about the (earlier) BLF X6.
And thanks for re-checking your measurements.
Your references are not relative to how I understood the question - question was on the “BLF X6”, not the SS/Cu Rev 2 version - night and day. Emitters and drivers are different. … Again, this is an original BLF X6 from the original BLF X6 group buy. There are many X6’s around, some by Eagle Eye, some by Manker, and various driver/emitter combos, so several choices are available now.
I’m sorry. I was imprecise with my original questions.
New guy with newbie question… How does the BLF D80 compare with the BLF X6? Not asking beam shot comparisons, but rather where do they fit in the line up? What is the niche? What differentiates the two from each other?
I intended to ask about the newest D80 and newest X6. I guess I should have said:
“How does the BLF LuckySun D80-SE compare with the BLF Kronos X6-SE V2?”
I also did not specify Al vs Cu, but my understanding was that the Al and CU versions of the Kronos X6-SE V2 used the same parts except for the type of metal in the host. If it makes a different in the light the I’ll pick the AL X6-SE V2 since the LuckySun D80-SE is also Al and that is more of an apples-to-apples.
Thank you for all the detailed information!
I got my long tube today I’ll be turning down the thread a bit so it fits the other tube, then I’ll need a 6 volt driver and a XHP50 or XHP70.
Please post a build thread. I’ve been wanting to do this since the tubes were even suggested.
GearBest has blown through the extended tubes they stocked for protected batteries. LuckySun can make some more, but the price will be higher for this run…I’m guessing around $5. They need interest in quite a few to make a run…guessing around 200, so I am making a list here for it. Please let me know if you want one or more.
Thanks,
krono
(Updated in OP)
Have you thought about waiting until they just make another batch of D80 lights, and then they will be making tubes anyway , so they can just make extra tubes, and it will be cheaper. Also, if they’re making special tubes, why not ask for a double tube ?
I know some mods have been done with these lights but I have not read every post to see which mods or what was used.
I had one of the 2 D80’s I ordered that had a weak driver in it (2.7 amps at tail at best) so I decided to see what a 17mm Standard FET with Memory driver and a XP-L HI V2 3D LED on Noctigon 20mm would do in it.
The light I modded has a spring bypass on the driver end only at the moment and it is now doing 5.2 - 5.3 amps at tailcap with a much tighter hotspot and throwing like a champ. The stock D80 with the original driver in it (the good one of the two) is doing 4.1 amps at tailcap with the tail spring bypassed.
Here are some comparison beamshots of the original and the modded one…………
Hey Robo,
Have you given those cows cataracts, yet?
Maybe we need another group buy for the new and improved, BLF - D80 “KronoRoboZooka”!!!
O:-)
I intended to ask about the newest D80 and newest X6. I guess I should have said:
"How does the BLF LuckySun D80-SE compare with the BLF Kronos X6-SE V2?"
I also did not specify Al vs Cu, but my understanding was that the Al and CU versions of the Kronos X6-SE V2 used the same parts except for the type of metal in the host. If it makes a different in the light the I'll pick the AL X6-SE V2 since the LuckySun D80-SE is also Al and that is more of an apples-to-apples.
Was wondering bout that afterwards, but the BLF D80 and Kronos X6's are so different in price and scope of mods that I didn't consider it. Now we have Astrolux names to deal with as well, sooo confusing. I got pretty much all of them as well.
I am not sure about the cows having cataracts , but I am sure they have seen spots that made them wonder what happened a few times.
I am thinking I may get a XM-L2 U4 next time I order something from Richard though, and try one in the D80, as I like the tint better from one of the U4 1C dedomed and it seems they give a little better output even. Also the XP-L HI is doing about all it can handle with the 5.3 amps I believe, should be right at the max for it.
just ordered
do you think a samsung 2600mah green laptop pull can give me problems (such as to much heat in the battery or fire by over-requesting ampere to the battery which can not give )?
I don’t think so. The way an LED behaves as current increases combined with the way a battery behaves under load usually keep that under control. Typically an extremely low resistance load or dead short are what cause the problems you mentioned.
Basically the battery is what dictates the current discharge in our flashlights not so much the light/driver.
I’m thoroughly fed up. I ordered one of these back on the 13th March. Got a dispatch notification and tracking number reasonably quickly. However since then the tracking info hasn’t changed a bit:
Mar 15, 2016
06:39 pm
Information Received China Post
I’m really really pissed off. I’ve never ordered from them before and don’t think I will again. I tried to contact them with their live chat but it’s offline lol! Have sent them a message through the support section.
Absolutely awful service.