Yes. This group buy was handled well. I hope these will continue to be available?
Fantastic. I guess I will be adding this puppy to the short list 
You guys are awesome! Thanks again
(From the original post, edited last March)
This still the case? People can get the D80-SE (not the stock D80), and then some of those will have the long tube, but that part is a gamble?
I think they only have with long tubes now , but i’m not sure . Someone else might know .
I’d say you’re spot on in that assessment. You’re seeing the reflection of the edge of the emitter hole at the base of the reflector. You can see the off-center ring just around the hot spot. if you have the skills to bring it up a little further into the reflector and center it a bit better they will probably go away but that one would certainly be beyond my skill level.
Your rings are coming from right here:
Edit:
It might be easier to get the reflector to sit a little lower as opposed to trying to shim the emitter. Again beyond my skill level but I’ve seen people like Dale do it.
Thanks for the advice J-Dub. I did eventually manage to focus it OK without mechanical rework. Not perfect, but good enough . Should have posted here as well:
Cool! Nice work. The “after” beam shot looks great.
My light is stuck on low, does anyone know where I can buy a replacement driver?
Thanks for your help, just what I need but as I am in Australia shipping takes the total to $26us. 3 more bucks and I can buy a new torch.
Oops, I should have read your location. :zipper_mouth_face:
Then , you can buy the A6 driver from banggood …
That is 17 mm, and the D80 is 20 mm. There is not enough room under the retaining ring to use a 17-20 adapter ring. It is possible to mate the 17 mm driver with a partition disc. I have one I did that with. There is space in the head to do that… of course you need to sand down the diameter of the 177 mm in order to push it forward through the hole.
I know it’s 17mm , but with some modding he could do it as you described … :+1:
Thanks for your help, I have put a 17mm driver in for now that does fit, just not very well. I might be able to machine up an adapter ring.
I wanted Bistro UI in the BLF D80, so I soldered a 17mm driver from Mountain Electronics onto the top of the retaining ring. One of my lights has the long tube and I use unprotected cells so there was a tiny bit of room to spare.
I posted my ugly method in the “What did you mod today?” thread, then DEL pointed out that a 17mm driver will indeed stay put under the D80 retaining ring.
I tried DEL’s suggestion and it worked. Both of my D80s now run Bistro UI and have no visible PWM! :+1:
That’s my ugly mod on the left, and the “correct” way on the right. 
For more info, start here at my post in the “What did you mod today?” thread. Hope this helps!
Thanks, that gives me confidence a 17mm although not ideal will work.
Hello everyone I tried to get a mtn-20ddm with attiny software in my light. 20mm is too big the stock driver that I took out was a 19.00mm. Well after taking a dremal to the driver I got it too fit. Now I can’t into programming, I click 16+ times and the light doesn’t go into programming modes. Could it be the switch causing the problem? Forward clickie vs reverse clickie?
For fwd tactical switches, you have to 1/2 click with the switch in the OFF position, then it should work.
The light has the stock switch is it a forward tactical switch? Maybe Iam doing it wrong. With light off I push the button all the way I hear a click release and the light turns on, it won’t turn on by just pressing the button.