Most of the bare alu is covered anyway, the rest is barely visible when assembled but got some black sharpie
2. Turned down the rim of the pill (same 0.6mm), drilled and tapped M2.5 holes, milled out relief cuts for good measure.
3. Now the centering ring doesn’t bottom out on its shoulders but sits flush on the MCPCB in the center.
I did thin it out a bit more in the center anyway to make sure it doesn’t sit proud of the emitter.
4. Coated the centering ring with soot to get rid of reflections (candle & a heatsink to make sure the thin center doesn’t melt)
It sticks well enough to the plastic that you’d need compressed air to blow it off.
Before/after:
Done.
Centering the lens is still the most annoying part when reassembling.
I suppose all most of this could be done with hand tools, though it’ll take a while to sand down those 2 parts. A belt sander would speed things up a lot.
If I find a proper piece of plastic in the parts bin, I’ll make a proper insulating spacer for the positive spring but the milk jug ring they included works okay I guess.
I’m running this on mediocre ICR 18650s (don’t own any 26650s), I’m pretty confident the emitter doesn’t pull more than 4 amps. Not sure if I’d put a low-IR 26650 in this.
PS: I removed the bleeder resistor but the tailcap LED still light up (dimly). Is this normal?
PPS: One layer of kapton tape on the zoom threads gets rid of the head rattle and scratchy noises and gives just the right amount of tightness
Pretty good :sunglasses:
The die image is a lot prettier than stock. Some fringing on the edges, this may be in part from the white resin around the die.
I’ll leave proper comparisons and numbers to others, though I may be able to snap a few outdoor beamshots this weekend. Don’t have much to compare it to in my collection.
CRI is pretty bad, as was expected. Now most of the spill that’s left when zoomed in comes from imperfections in the lens. Those also are much more pronounced in flood mode, especially the donut (stems from a tiny bump in the center of the flat side).
I eventually turned a very shallow shelf on the inner front rim of the head that keeps the lens centered. No more bumping it around while tightening the bezel.
My order of 3 Cometa arrived. There are quality degradation compared to previous two. Not really very bad, but definitely not suitable for non-modder. From the boxes, they seems to be 2017 production, first two are 2016 production.
Degradation as below:
Latest aluminum disc are plastic and don’t really press on MCPCB as much as aluminum disc.
LED not properly sit on MCPCB
Plastic insulator is very thin and deformed before use.
My First cometa + battery was marked 2016
and disk is Alu(9 Grams) are you sure is plastic?
I have another on the way without battery,
maybe will be the batch 2017 .
Yes, but I’m not sure if the body won’t bump into the lens at the end of travel. In stock config, the rim of the disc acts as a somewhat soft stop (at least if yours is plastic). I’ll have to have a look at the threads inside…
IIRC 22mm would fit easily, above 23mm it gets tight if you want a screw-in retainer ring (as opposed to press-fit).
When I add a spacer ring to the led that teacher said ( I don’t have Butterfly ) have this kinds :
Add this first one and measured a falling of lumen output. 165 lm less than without spacer.
So in case of this second measured light with spacer it will get it just little above 600 lm, which is disaster.
That because the hole of the black disk is too small for these gasket and it raise up
With loss light,
I would try butterfly ring as teacher said.
Now I have that,maybe it focus better but need to Drill enlarge hole Alu black disk for fit well
That is about the craziest thing I’ve seen BG do yet, trying to say the regular price for this POS clone is or was ever priced at $95, it’s never been put up for sale for over $45, GB was $40,
I think they are really losing their minds or have become such habitual liars that even they believe they now have a $500 light on sale now for $95, and we’ll even throw in 4 - 21700 cells for FREE,
Yeah, the Butterfly Spacer / Insulator I use does not have the raised ring around the LED like those do. It is a nice fit & no drilling or modifying required of Black Disc.
What would be a nice LED to get rid of The Bat Signal when fully zoomed? That hexagonal Nichia, maybe? Dunno how efficient (ie, how much of a bite I’d take swapping it in) vs the come-with Cree, how much of a difference the Vf might make, etc.
Even a square flip-chip would get rid of the bond-wires and pads, I imagine.
