Got mine yesterday! Great quality. My Maxtoch logo is straight - but my BLF logo is a little off center (albeit straight)… no biggie!
Question - how does mode memory work on this light? No matter how long I leave it on (either with a full click or momentary-then-click) it always cycles to the next mode when it is turned on again.
I also tried the momentary pressure switch cap and that just cycles through the modes as well… am I missing something??
It should always come on Hi, cycle down through Med and Low.
If you turn it off and back on again too quickly, it will be next mode just like selecting modes. There’s about a 2 second delay? Something like that.
Forever sad I missed out on this GB.
Thanks Dale -
I just checked and that does seem to be the case - so not a ‘memory mode’ per se…
So it’s impossible to turn it off,on low and then turn it back on low ?
Got mine....totally happy! It is lightweight and astounding by way of performance! Pointed it at the moon and I saw a crater get lighter!! Really!!
lol
Yeah banker, it’s called the Sniper because it’s intended for hunters and law enforcement for rifle mount. As such, Low really isn’t a mode they consider using unless they need to show the identification of the varmint they just shot, ya know? “Ahhh, I guess his papers WERE in order! Oh well, call the coroner…” (I’m kidding, geesh!) The hunter’s will use low or med when tracking the game or field dressing, easy enough after the kill to seek out the mode they want. High first, big importance.
What? You don’t hunt? Not in law enforcement or security? Welcome to the club, me neither. But it’s still an awesome light!
High is what they want to click on when they’re looking to shoot a crittur out there at the end of their range. Priorities and all that.
I am in the club !!!
At least Dale you have 300 yards to the mailbox,just to walk and to try your lights, for me who live in the building all neighbors already knows me as a lunatic who wait for night to lighten up the park from the window :party:
I am fortunate, indeed, with the 300 yd walk to the road and the coyotes and foxes and skunks and cows and the County Commissioner’s barn to light up. 
Lunatic, indeed. When the big storm comes and there’s no lights, we know who they will come to don’t we? 
Got two of mine expecting two more. Quick opinion. Excellent long range rifle light. Build quality feels solid. Biggest downer tailcap measured 2.25A on one and 2.10A on the other. Don’t think either light does 4.3A. Hopefully the next two will. Got to compare it to my current distance champ a Y3 with a $1 resistor mod (2.8A@ the cap), xml2 u4 1c dedomed on a maxtoch copper and a UCLp lens. It is slightly misty and results favored the Y3 with the warmer tint. Need to do a true comparison on a clear night. All of the above lights checked with the same LG HG2 batteries.
The current is measured at the emitter on these lights NOT at the tailcap.
Agreed but figuring losses 2.1A at the cap even with a 90% efficent driver can’t be 4.3A at the emitter. Maybe with another set of batteries the results maybe better but I have my doubt’s about the 2.1A flashlight regardless.
I know this is gonna sound weird but, I just did a tailcap measurement on both my lights with 2 different sets of batteries, one set was the LG HE4 and the other set was the Panasonic NCR18650PF Protected 2900mAh.
The LG’s had 2.39 on one light and 2.42 on the other.
The Panisonics had 2.51 and the other 2.53.
That was what is weird that the protected cells had more amps than the high drain so I dunno what that means for the tailcap readings to the overall output other than more output from the protected cells.
Robo please don’t take any of the above personally. I do understand there are manufacturing discrepancies with gains and losses and no two drivers are the same. Besides I know one of flashlights that will be gifted this Christmas.
The only BIG flaw with this light is the same as all these non-namebrand lights--the drivers have "long memory" and you have to leave them in a mode for about 3 or more seconds, or if you click them back on (like I very often do), it'll end up in one of the lower modes.
It's a powerful, great light...just sayin'
Not taking it personal, just made me curious when you said 2.1 at tailcap as to what mine was doing and then surprised me also when the protected cells made more amps in both lights.
It was explained to me how to do the measurements to get the actual current but I don’t want to go desoldering anything on these new lights to test it just yet and chance shorting something.
Had to quit typing to go out and kill that big ol opossum that keeps coming up to eat the cat food.
Possums are just ugly, nasty and hiss like Zombies on the walking dead. Just need killing.
Hes dead, got him right under the chin and out through the top of the head.
Ok guys, think BUCK driver here. If you have high discharge cells, the Buck driver doesn’t have to pull so hard to get what it needs to run the required current to the emitter. If you have protected cells that can’t quite cut the mustard, the driver has to pull harder to get the power to the emitter like it’s been programmed to do. Seems backwards till you understand what’s going on. Do spring bypasses and the tail current actually goes DOWN instead of up, as it lets the driver work even easier to make it’s demand.