I'm not doin much better here... Very, very depressed about the results I'm getting on a Shocker after the mods: XM-L2 U2's/SinkPAD's, resistor mod.. So, measured amps went down, not up. I'm getting 3.2A measured at the tailcap while stock it's about 3.6A. lumens was doing 3,450 at start which probably makes sense for that amperage, because I'd expect 3,700 - 3,900 if the amps stayed the same. Pana PD's w/magnets made no difference -- it's as if the amps is locked in there, and lowering the resistance through the batteries made no difference at all. I'm trying to back out the resistor mod but it's not easy... I even doubt it will make a difference - I followed PPtk's guidance to the T for the resistor mod, looked perfect. Funny because I had this same problem before and thought it was the BTU driver, and ended up replacing it with an IOS 3.5A driver, and got back to 3.6A measured.
This Shocker started out as a well performing stock light too, different from your problem, Jim, but can't figure this one out. Well, dunno, got another Shocker here, can try swapping drivers, but hate re-wiring, re-assembling, just more risk. Oh - btw, I could not get Ric to send me a BTU driver replacement, he only offered a DRY driver, which is supposedly on the way but doesn't look hopeful.... Also, I asked him if I could order Shocker's with no emitters -- also no good. It's more of a PIA to remove the XML U2's -- I'd rather work with one that has nothing. So, Ric will support you but does have limits, at least for Shocker parts I'm figuring.
Well, to fully open the Shocker, you have to pop out the driver -- I try to unscrew the inner retainer, not the bigger alum outer piece - this avoids twisting the wires as much. Once the driver pops out, there's a phillips head screw holding in the reflector, just like most 3 LED lights (I've done a couple of other types). The reflector from it's weight may fall off, or may have to be carefully nudged because partially stuck to the pill top with fujik -- carefully, the reflector weights a ton and avoid fingerprints on the flat surfaces. Of course you have to unscrew the bezel, and tkae out the glass and o-ring first.
it seems like the U2s were suppose to be available “end of Nov.”, so presumably a 201211xxx light would be right about the time. But, other posts in that thread seem to indicate the U2s didn’t get received until early Dec 2012, so it seems like 201211xxx could be possibly before the 1st batch of U2s, so I’m still suspecting this light has T6s…
Putting it another way, nothing thus far indicates that the light I got has U2 emitters in it.
I non’t know if the serial number is printed when the light is assembled. THat could have been put on the body months before it was actually loaded up with guts.
Wasn’t =the=’s BTU a NW, which is for sure T6 emitters?
Hhmmm, I'm thinking you may have 3C because the brightness of the Shocker will lighten the neutral effect, so if you think the Shocker is in between a CW EDC and a NW EDC, maybe it is a T6 1C.
If it helps, my BTU is #201211048. It was from the original presale and is a U2. Tested 125k without the AR lens. Once I got a UCL lens in it, it tested 131k.
Hi , my serial is 201211005 and I got mine a fews days after ILF got his.
Mine seems good compared to my M3X and K 40 [I don’t do any measurements] good luck…kelly
If it does turn out that the reason for my lower lux readings is because this has the NW emitters, I’d be a bit unhappy, because when I ordered (and as shown on the order on their website) I purposely picked CW. I guess I’ll have to wait until I hear back from RIC at this point.
The info that I’ve seen for a “good” Shocker would be ~130 Klux. This would be measured using a lux meter (I have an HS2010B, I think, and have an HS2010 in-transit from two different places - long story).
The impression I get is that, especially because the Shocker has 3 emitters, it takes some distance for the beams to focus, to get the best measurement. I’ve been currently doing measurements at ~39 feet (11.887 meters), because that’s about the longest unobstructed distance I can get indoors, with no reflecting walls around.
My impression from reading is that I think that the “weaker performing” Shocker would probably be minimally noticeable to the eye. That’s why, for myself, I’m starting to turn into a “data freak”, measuring almost everything with my lux meter, because it’s the only definitive way to really tell, to me.
Lumens can be measured, but you need something called an “integrating sphere”, and I don’t have one, so I can only stick to the lux measurements and tailcap current measurements to “benchmark” my lights.
I tried to answer your post, and yes, I’ve used both PM and email. He seems to be more responsive to PM though, and to answer the question that you probably were going to ask, no, I don’t have a definitive answer as to why my Shocker is only giving 100 Klux, whereas (many) others have reported 130 Klux.
Yes, you did thanks for the answer makes things clear to me
Well if its not noticeable i guess even if i get similar performing unit (fingers crossed i hope not) i won’t be worried to much, its still very bright right? 8)
