i want to buy/build a 18650 battery thrower light with a green led light in it for hunting coyotes at night out to 350 yds.(they won't spook with a green light)
i do not need multiple power settings or anything fancy, just lots of light in a fairly focused beam
i was thinking a solarforce pro-1 monster thrower head which has an xr-e light in it.
i need a green light with lots of lumens that would work it this head
ideas on what will work, where i can get it, and install help ,PLEASE !!!!
Getting 350yds from a Cree XR/XP green is going to be hard even with an aspherical lens. The cheap setup is this 150yd light (says luxeon K2 but is Cree) and this aspherical (lastest ones suck but gamble) http://www.dealextreme.com/p/ultrafire-wf-501b-philips-luxeon-k2-green-led-flashlight-1-18650-2-cr123a-20331 http://www.dealextreme.com/p/glass-optics-for-flashlights-28mm-5297 http://www.dealextreme.com/p/superfire-gun-mount-pressure-pad-1025 The best Luminus color LEDs https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/4187 or https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/4024
o http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?283475-Need-Red-LED-for-hunting
You may think this is silly but here goes anyways…
The TRI… LED…Not as great a throw but VERY bright in green… and may actually be better down range…just not as “pin point” - likewise can run in a custom P60 head but gets real hot and fast this way, I have a solid chunk of copper for this application custommade… if wired right can run off a single18650 with a 2.5amp 17mm driver…or the preferred way is to use the driver below and a 4 cell 14500 batterypack… with heat sink and body… when you are not out hunting it makes a GREAT lightsaber… which is essentially what you are making,
This will certainly be way over the top, but doesn't one signature around here read "why buy enough lumens when you can have way too many"? Ok, here goes: User willie has build a truely amazing green (and one red) thrower with asperic lens for hunting: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/4187
The problem witn Luxeon and Cree (<150 lumen) is extreme lack of lumen @ 350yds. Luminus green leds start at SBT16 @ 300+ lumen up to PT120 @ 4000+ lumen. I build my own because no one retails a HIGH lumen color hunting thrower flashlights. There are several custom builders that will for custom cash. http://www.luminus.com/products/color.html
I do recommend LEDSUPPLY and buy some supplies from them for my solar feeder lights. Friendly and fast service. Mouser sells Luminus or if you know how to cross ref some LEDs can be found cheaper.
i will be using this light on as low recoil rifle and in cold temps - 0 to 40degrees F.
build will have to be somewhat budget with no more than 2 X 18650 li-ion batteries.
heat should not be as much as an issue with cold temps and short run times, 10 to 30 sec.
may use a red led as most hunters seem to prefer it to green for coyotes
since rifle has low recoil it does not have to be built like a tank. also just need on and off at max power, no multiple settings. though as remote switch on a wire is a must.
My current rifle build red led is made from the following componets:
#1. TR1200 tube ($13) from MF, modded by lathe turning for dual 1" rings, head machined to accept aspheric lens and tube bored for press in copper heatsink.
#2. PT54 Phatlight red led 700+lm 2.4fv, (Ebay for $23 total)
#3. Remote switch ($5 from MF) & may have to fet switch
#4. 18650 sized NiMH batteries (no driver needed & direct drive) item# 4/3AF (1.2v 4200ma), Ebay seller marrsinc 4@15
#5. Aspherical lens... Last lot from DX sucked, ordered from different source and waiting
#6 Copper heat sink and 18ga, did my own machine work
....... I put a LOT of time pursuing the use of Lithium batteries with voltage regulators, drivers, IMR high discharge batteries, etc... There are many ways to power this led but direct drive 2 cell NiMH was the best solution for me. The PT series leds are positive grounded to the base. SST and SBT may differ.
All good thoughts from everyone… it may boil down to how much you want to spend and how handy you are at moding.
On second thought here is my best suggestion:
IF you don’t have the budget to use a projector bulb basically to get light to go the 350 yards you like, then I recommend you try this: It is a first try-cheap alternative… the nature of BLF
This light is BY FAR my single best thrower down range…clearly whips the socks off the highly recommended HS-802 that I have as well.
-Obvious problem –out of stock here… (not sure where else it is or if it would be the same) don’t confuse this with the regular X2000… this is a big 38mm optic and the down range spot is about ¼ the size and 4xs the intensity of the already impressive X2000
I recommend this one for this reason… I know it, it’s cheap, and I know it can take a quick easy change to another 20mm star base for the LED, the star just sits there… it is an easy solution… however if there are any of the current 2x18650 bigger optic lights out there –even the ones for the T6 that are an easy change from the 20mm star then those are possibilities as well (anyone know), and are probably better built. Your problem is if you can’t find an easy swap out to a 20mm star you may have a hard time finding the LED on a smaller mount, say 14-16mm or even the bigger 30mm. If you can resurface mount the LED then you can just go with whatever size.
The LED:
How2’s recommendation of this LED is probably your best bet: I have dealt with both suppliers below… as well…both exceptional…
Second to that is a switch out to the Rebel… it has the highest lumens rating in green (from this bin sold here) –that may just be a bit better down range but I cannot attest to that… I no longer have this LED to test out but I have been impressed with it in the past, it is VERY bright… I think for me it showed the tightest beam down range next to the XRE… so with a 1/3rd more lumens… cheap for a try to see if you like…
The SBT16 @ 300-600 lumen ($14.95) vs the rebel 160 lumen ($12.96). Two dollars more for twice the light with rectangle horizontal spread for more usable hotspot.
I do use the $10 WF501b green driven at 1400ma (amc7135 driver) on my crossbow 40yd and 500s&w Saiga conversion 150yd, aspherical lens rifle only. Both are budget rifle type mounted green led flashlights. Most color hunting rifle type mount flashlight leds retail over $130+ and are based on low lumen (<160 green & much worse in red) emitters. My DIY was built for less than $70 batteries included and will do 350+yds. None of the above low/high dollar rigs are this capable. What is real weapon mounted 350yd budget light?
i thought the sst90 does not need as many amps as the pt54 and is smaller???
i would really like to stay within the p60 familly using 2 18650s and perhaps a tiablo collimaTOR head or something like the solarforce pro-1 thrower head.
size and weight is somewhat of a concern.
do you have another thread or site somewhere that you discuss your builds in more detail?
at what distance can you shoot at with good vision using your lights?
tiablo collimator head would be a good start I do recall(?)it is aspheric (I have CRS). In one of the above post I explained my latest build (TR1200 TUBE, 4/3AF batteries, REMOTE SWITCH, ETC..). The PT54 red can be found on Ebay (search Phatlight) for $23 ($18+S&H). This emitter has a COPPER base and is heavy duty, keep in mind the base is positive grounded. I would look for a driver with at least 6.5A (PT54 will take 13.5A short time) if you go the L-ion route. I went with NiMH @ 2.4v (2@1.2v) ( NO DRIVER REQUIRED) because this and most red emitters run best at forward voltage 2.v to 2.8v although many users run them at higher voltage, there is no advantage and possible lost/shorts of emitter life. The emitter needs some hand work (hack saw, file, dremel) for flashlight use. Do a google search on PT54 flashlights there are several builds. Distance shooting at night has many variables... quality of scope and lit reticule, etc... my setup is good for 300YDS+ and with the red led have spotted yotes at 500yds+ with PT54 flashlight. YMMV... IMHO p60 is too small a platform for any long distance. My builds are on this forum and CPF and are as detailed as they are going to get. I suggest that nothing is free and knowledge on what will work for you is best learned from many sources. Please take this with a grain of salt, but this is a public forum and some out there will take advantage of free R&D for PROFIT with no credit given in of any form or fashion.
thanks so much for all your help.I certainly get your drift on r&d !!!
Tiablo makes an aspheric head that has had good reviews i just hope that it will also have an acceptable flood type beam for closer in work. there is a fellow from aus who is using them for varmints so i will email him on that,
as you know, in reality, most night shooting for yotes is well under 200 yds and can involve multiple animals/shots but there is the odd time!!!!
It really looks like the pt54 is the way to go unless something else comes out real soon, the cost is reasonable.
DX & KD sell a bunch of 50/53mm reflectors. Most combinations do not "LEGO" and machine work is needed. Most of my reflector trial and error has been with Maglites and white emitters. Best guess is P7 or SST50 reflectors (non pill type) would be a good starting point. In my opinion a stanard pill will not provide adequate heat sink.
on the tr1200 tube what is the inside dia. where the lens glass would sit?
are you using the aspheric lens in the tr1200 build without a reflector like in your mag light builds?
If so, i presume the mounting distance from the back of the aspheric lens to the pt54 led is determined by trial and error to get the type of beam you want?
i like the idea of using the aspheric lens for distance and was wondering if using the pt54 red you still bet enough usable spill for close in shooting 50 to 100 yds?
Sorry for all the ? but i there is so much conflicting info on this and cpf site i am just trying to sort thru it for a light beam that is usable for my purpose, and you seem like the man!!