It’s not 3.2A dropping to 2.4A. It’s 3.2A at the emitter vs 2.4A at the tailcap measured with different DMM and different leads at different voltage. I’m not saying the driver is good or bad, all I’m saying this data is not enough to tell it performs differently from review sample/ same as review sample.
I think both measurements were taken at the emitter. The second one being with braided springs and bypassed switch. Only DBCstm can tell for sure.
BTW 2.82A + 0.2A does make it 3+A
2.4A tail with 3.2A at emittter is not going to happen guys. 2.4A gives voltage sag to at least 4V, so 9.6W. With a loss-less buck driver (!) this is 3V at the emitter, but at 3V the Xm-L2 only does 1A, not 3.2A. And this is with an impossible driver! See?
We can see if 3.3A or 3A at the emitter is even possible just using the numbers at the tail.
Using Djozz’s tail numbers, Green Sony ++A : 4.19V rest, 2.82A, bypassing switch, 11.81 watts. Given a 85% efficient diver that only leaves 10.04 watts. Match’s XML2 copper mcpcb vf chart lists 3.8v at 3.3A which is 12.54 watts. Even a lower vf of 3.5v at 3.3A would take 11.55 watts. How about 3A? 3.5v at 3A would take 10.5A.
Not seeing 3A at the emitter.
Chicken Drumstick, that battery you used “Efest IMR 3100mAh” is not a true IMR cell, AFAIK it’s a Panasonic 18650BE inside, which is a good cell, but no IMR cell. Also, from your picture I can’t tell if it is button top or flat. Because with additional button top, resistance of the cell could even be significantly higher than that of the bare cell. I wouldn’t expect this battery to perform much better than Panasonic 18650B.
Besides that, I can’t wait to get mine, it looks beautiful.
Would like to see the delivered flashlight tested exactly the same way the sample flashlight was tested to get a proper answer to the question if specs are met or not.
rather than re-testing the performance, I think the question is whether or not there are any component differences between the sample and production unit. if there’s no evidence of different parts (and so far it looks the same), then Eagle Eye made what was approved.
I should get my lights in the next day or two, and rest assured I will be testing again. And posting what I see, exactly as I see it.
I’m all for this light being the Group Buy Master, but if they messed up you won’t find me spreading Cake icing on BS. I call it like I see it. Already getting a bit perturbed at the differences to be quite honest. Not much I can do about it though.
That said, the light is indeed an excellent light, with a premium emitter on a DTP copper star. And an AR coated lens. A Qlite dropped in should be a nice and easy change. A Qlite with 4 extra 7135 chips should be outstanding. Just saying… Regardless of the driver they shoehorned into this one, it can be rectified for $5 or less and still be an excellent light.
You’re a good man DBCstm. You should be winning the lottery any day now with all this good karma coming your way.
Now, if BG pulled the old bait’n’switch I’m gonna grow wings, fly over there and slap the stupid out of them.
