Is that completely stock or with bypassed springs?
I didn’t realize that the DMM leads had such a big effect on readings. With a cheap HF meter and stock leads I got readings of .84A, .38A, and .06A for a Convoy S5 rated at 2100ma. Using heavy gauge solid wire attached to banana plugs (and about 5 inches in length) I got readings of 2.07A, .85A, and .1A using the same laptop Sanyo battery charged to 4.05v.
Bone stock light, straight out of the mailbox.
I literally walked in the house, opened it up, and dropped a cell in to take those amperage tests. Didn't even look at beam profile more than to notice it was white/blue-white and not neutral while it was on taking the amperage tests.
My Dad is now the Official Oldest Member of the BLF Special Edition Eagle Eye X6 group buy craze. Today is his 86th birthday, I gave him the Cool White X6 SE that just came in.
(But not before getting all those measurements. ;) )
Wow, nice! Y’know, I’ve been trying not to join the whole “did we get what we ordered” mess, but it is sure seeming like people are getting their noses out of joint for no reason. The PF has great capacity, and is readily available, and gets over 3A with the light completely stock. What’s not to like?
Arrived my first X6 (one of two); impressions? Beautiful box (I bow to BLF for the power to have these special gifts) but completely massacred by the tape.
EE X6 is very well made, excellent aluminum, high-quality lens and … unfortunately I have to stop here because it not work, no current to the LED.
I hope to be more lucky with the second…
However, let me say what I think about what I read here on how it works.
I think the problem is not only a lack of half Ampere (2.60 Vs 3.30) but the story is that this driver not have any kind of constant adjustment of light.
As soon as the battery discharges even only 30% will have a big drop in brightness, because it will drop below 2 amps, maybe 1.5 after only 30 minutes.
This worries me, not how high the peak (1100 lumens or 950 is small change) but for how long this brightness is maintained.
If I walk in the forest and after 40 minutes I need a lot of light, X6 not have 950 lumens , perhaps only 500 …
Another thing I don’t understand; why do step down after 3 minutes if 3 Amps. never comes? A flashlights of this size and weight, with copper PCB, can be safely running to 3 amps at least 30 minutes without any problems, then having a natural decline with the discharge of battery, already this would be enough to not overheat excessively.
I thought a great technical engagement (copper PCB etc.) would have allowed to get a driver with a constant output.
When I have a light that work I will tell you someting of my own, for now I just reasoned on words I read.
But as always my big problem is that you can understand me without too much trouble … sorry
Altair, check the retaining ring in the tail cap. There are two indentions where you can insert the tips of needle nose pliers or tweezers...see if you can snug it down a little, turning to the right (righty tighty lefty loosy).
You inserted the battery positive side in first, right?
Also double check the retaining ring holding the driver in, it also is right hand tighten. Both of these retaining rings need to be snug for the ground current to run.
If you're using a protected cell that is too long, the tail cap cannot screw on far enough to touch the bare aluminum on the end of the battery tube, no ground. Check that as well.
If you insert the cell, can you power up the light by touching the back of the cell with a paper clip or screwdriver and also touching the side of the battery tube that is bare?
Get back to us and let us know how it's working out...
Yup Altair, the output dims through time as the battery is discharged. But unless you have a specific purpose needing that amount of light, it won’t matter all that much. Turbo is just a timer, its not going to trigger based on heat, just time, so since its never going to get very hot anyways, it is just an annoying artifact currently.
The good thing about the setup this way is it takes a long time to run out of light in case you take longer than you expect: I had it on turbo semi continuous (had to keep clicking turbo) for over an hour, then I got less engaged with the turbo hitting and kept it running for another 45 mins hitting turbo when I could (was doing something else, missed a few mins here and there) all on a 3200mAh Panasonic BD cell. It was still producing light at that point, and I had to do something else, so I took a reading on the cell: 3.4V. If I were expecting 2.8A to the emitter continuously and it to be perfect, I’d have a dead battery in about 1hr 8mins (3200mAh/2.8A = 1.1428…). But I still had light at 1hr 45mins, and 3.4V shows there was still some juice left. This also shows btw its certainly not doing near 2.8A to the emitter for any reasonable length of time, since there ARE losses depending on the efficiency of the driver…
Panasonic BD does not increase brightness to me, it did increase the time where I can see a good amount of difference between turbo and high. Just running a Panasonic NCRB, turbo stopped seeming to have much increase when turbo was hit after only a few turbo engages. So get the BD cell if it matters to you.
Hi DBC,
I’ m sure, the right side of battery, instinctively with my finger I touch the posterior pole during the insertion, double-check, if your eyes were tired …
I immediately ruled out the switch, trying the bridge with a wire, but no light.
The tester tells me short circuit by touching the wires on the led in both directions, I think it was mounted too turned off from the standard position
Thanks for the help, but it is defective. I do reflow LED and change drivers (from what I read is not a big loss), but I wrote to BG, first we see what they say.
I’ll keep you informed how BG solve the problem, or if I do myself.
This is not battery power. This is dissipated power.
And P=V^2/R
Hi B42,
With a good constant current driver, the light remains practically the same for the duration of battery, at least up to 80%. Of course I only found on more expensive flashlight.
To say less light is better because more battery life, is like saying that it is better to travel with Smart instead of Porshe …
I have Panasonic BD and also IMR batteries, as well when he comes the second X6 do the tests.
Thanks for the advice, and sorry if maybe I don’t understand what you mean, the time of English school are far far away …
I don't recall this being mentioned, but it'd be a good idea to thoroughly clean all the threads and reapply lube. The units I received had shiny flakes of metal/anodizing on the actual threads.
I understand your viewpoint all too well, I was just trying to look at the positive side of it. I’m pretty certain all lights see a change in current as the forward voltage drops through time by default. Mine cannot be staying at the same current since the difference between turbo and high reduces through time that I’ve noticed on lesser cells. And, if it were, on the Panasonic BD 3200mAh, a 1hr 45min run time (it wasn’t a dead battery yet either, I think X6 should step down when its low, correct?) is not possible unless it uses less than 1.8A average to the emitter. I doubt that though, since I do see a visual difference relatively quickly on the other cell I ran and unless that cell had much lower capacity than I think and drops voltage very quickly that shouldn’t happen … I’ll pay more attention to the other cell I use later as I run it again tonight, someone with more knowledge of how this driver works can answer for you better probably about the driver. Its also hard to get a true “time on high” run, since you have to hit the turbo every 3 mins.
Speaking of which…does anyone know of a solution to give this light a cigar grip? The small tube and constant hitting of turbo begs for one, it would be a great addition. Something like a clip with cigar grip type metal flange…?
Of course, the low power consumption of any device can be appreciated, in fact I have a Smart not a Porshe … 
I can certainly say that there are flashlight (tested with Armitek or EagleTac, Fenix even some) that when the battery voltage drops, increase the current drain from battery to maintain the same power to the LED.
Watch as it absorbs a small Wizard with low battery, 6,61 Amps!!!
when the battery is 4.2 volts absorbs half (about 3A.)
Cicar grip … try with a big rubber band wrapped around the pipe, not nice to see but it works.
EEhhmmmm…. Sorry, I went very much off topic.
Obviously NOT battery power... 
P = V x I = I2 x R = V2 / R 
.
My cool white one arrived today (not sure why its here and the warm white bought within seconds still hasn’t arrived in the country, but anyhow) in the mail and I am loving everything about it.
First impressions:
-top notch build
-nice display box (I will have to hair drier the tape off)
-easily meets my needs and exceeds expectations (was fearing the worse) when it comes to output on high/turbo (tested with Panny 3400 B)
-did I really only pay $20 for this
-why did I only order 2 with the wait on 1 warm white
110% satisified with this light. I also find it a lot smaller than what I thought it would be. Thank you to all involved with this group buy especially kronological for his amazing determination!!!
That plastic piece on top, are you sure that’s not just the centering ring mounted crooked?
When you run out of money but still write checks, the bank charges you more....money they know you don't have! :)
The lower the cell get's, the more the driver demands of it. Does that seem smart to anyone? Hmmm, let's see, we have this Li-ion cell that has all kinds of warnings and we're kicking it when it's down, yeah, that's a great idea! Or, uh, maybe not? Wouldn't that make it hot? Can't that lead to a loop? Isn't it contained in an aircraft aluminum pipe? In your hand?
Like holding M60's in your fingers and lighting the fuse then throwing the M60...always hoping of course that the fuse isn't a fast one. ;)
I have no real idea if this is a dangerous situation or not, but it doesn't seem right to me. Just sayin.
Could be, but I think I see where the track should be soldered the LED, where indicated by red arrow, and if I see that track, the LED is out of place.
Also if it was just the centering ring mounted crooked should light up anyway.