Group Buy-BLF X6-SE OP update-GB over.

One of the worst threads ever . Trying to read thru it makes me want to shoot a few people(including myself).

please ask yourself before posting ...if anyone really cares .

I know people seem to be proud of 4000 + posts

but how about quality vs quantity

With 796 lights sold and 3952 posts in the thread, this one is horrendous.

Do you mean longest, most expensive or covering the most subjects? Personally I vote for all of the above.

This is what I have been waiting for, BUT didn’t Richard say a while back that he wasn’t going to make these available? Is he going to just make the parts available for the mod, but not the finished light? Aren’t the parts already available. All I want is ONE of these FLAME THROWERS and then I’m out of this madness forever! (until the next GB).

;)

Got two NW BLF X6 SE's in today. Tape for both boxes was only on the bottom and wrapped to the side - no problem really. Both are 100% functional and appear to be quite bright. Tint/beam is typical for NW thrower type of lights (SMO reflectors) - very similar to C8 size high amp NW throwers I have, but with a wider (than a C8) not as intense beam of course.

Here's "My" tailcap measurements for both "stock" units, measured with a UNI-T UT50B DMM (from FT), 14 AWG silicone coated wires directly soldered into banana plugs, than with the bare ends soldered (to keep the strands together) for contact to the battery and flashlight tube end.

X6-SE #1: SONY VTC5 @4.21v - 2.82A

X6-SE #2: (same VTC5) - 2.84A

X6-SE #1: Pana BD @4.17v - 2.63A (unprotected)

X6-SE #2: (same BD) - 2.65A (unprotected)

X6-SE #1: LG HE2 @4.20v - 2.68A - 2.84A *

X6-SE #2: (same HE2) - 2.76A - 2.99A *

X6-SE #1: KP 3400 @4.16v - 2.15A - 2.27A * (protected cell)

X6-SE #2: (same KP) - 2.27A - 2.36A * (protected cell)

* Note: I realized the softer I pressed on the cell, the lower the amps got - harder: higher. So, I started recording both low and high readings. This is all normal stuff for this type of driver and battery configuration. The spring compresses as you press harder, so less resistance because the effective distance of the spring wire is reduced for the current flow.

I can't explain the exact cause of why some are getting much lower readings (below 2A with a "good" cell), but there are many possible reasons. Three possible causes I'm thinking:

  1. anything less in battery quality (low resistance), charge, or battery age/usage (cells with several charge cycles will be weaker)
  2. an improper DMM setup (cheaper DC amp components in the DMM, or improper direct heavy gauge leads, or using probes - will measure lower with this light)
  3. variations in units of the X6-SE's (maybe some have the new higher Vf CREE LED's, some still the old LED's, etc.)

Note that the unit #2 unit seems to be reading consistently higher, but not by much really. All within the margin of error. Because results vary with pressure of pushing down on the cell, there's a lot of slop in these #'s. Adding a wire to bypass the driver spring will of course solve the variation, and most likely result in higher amps than the highest #'s above.

Some guys were asking for recommendation of cells - The SONY VTC5, Efest 35A, Samsung 25R, and LG HE2 are all pretty much comparable in high performance in a very nice ~2500 mAh capacity. As you see above, the Panasonic BD (unprotected) did well, but not as good, but for the extra capacity of being 3200 mAh, they are also a very nice option. The 4.35v cells may also have advantages, but I'm not aware of any testing with them in this light, plus the odd charge level means you need a special charger. I would of course recommend Richard (RMM) at http://www.mtnelectronics.com/ for the batteries and chargers - great quality and prices. Also our friends at http://www.illumn.com/, Calvin posts here, can also offer great cells and chargers at very competitive prices, and both will gladly answer any questions you have. I've had frequent online conversations with them both. Sorry - US shops, Int'l shipping may be possible though.

This is a quality light, worth more than what we paid -- I'd suggest using only quality cells.

It's a BLF light ...

Do a search... every single one of them has some flaw .

expecting one light to be a "perfect light" is insane

Like Jack the Clipper said it's maybe the best yet ...but ain't perfect

Thanks Dale, so it should be able to survive a few drops from my hand. Got mine today, still haven’t placed a battery in them yet. As others have said, it’s a lot smaller than I thought.

Well said man.

What does it matter, we talk about the light, one could argue more then half the posts on BLF are not “quality” posts, people ask questions, get sidetracked, make jokes, new people come along and ask the same questions, tidbits of useful information gets placed all over all the different threads so unless you read all of them you will never learn everything we all know and have posted.

I found the holster to my nitecore CR6 fit the X6 perfect (better even that it fits the nitecore lol).

Anyone need it?

Now that I've had a chance to examine the beam profile outside in the Dark , I noticed that at a certain distance , the corona outshines the center of the hotspot . In other words , the hotspot is dimmer in the center . It appears to my eye at a distance of around twenty feet on out to about a hundred feet .

Am I the only person to see this ? Or are my eyes deceiving me ?

I checked the alignment of the emitter , it's well centered and snug against the bottom of the reflector .

Interesting . Every reflector has it's quirks . If I find that it bothers me I will simply sputter the reflector and that should fix it .

Beautiful reflector , though .

Quantity, when it is large enough, has a quality all of its own... ;)

It helps making the waiting for delivery less boring. And there is some stuff to pick up on, reading the latest posts in the thread every day. But I sure wouldn't start reading from the start.

I noticed that more on XPG, not to sure about XML/2

This happens with all one LED lights if you look at the beam hot spot on the wall, at a dim enough level for your eyes to perceive it, at the right distance. You can see it as a shift in color on many lights.

Interesting information, I never would have thought that at this low of a drive strength the low resistant cells would make that much of a difference. I just popped in a KP3400 and away I went but after swapping in a 20R there seems to be a more noticeable difference when you switch threw the modes. Time to order up a set of these 2500mAh low resistant/high current cells to have around… :wink:

I got my 2 NW BLF-X6s in the mail today. The LEDs were both off-centred on the pad like the above, but it is centred in the reflector and working. Just as long as the thing that I bought produces light, it’s fine by me.

edit: Looks like I got my CW as well! I had to pick it up from the Post Office though. Everything has been received. Now, just waiting for the WW to be produced and made ready.

dibs

Rod, I think what y’all are seeing is the insulation disc being torqued by the reflector, not the emitter being on the star wrong. It might look out of place, but if one were to peel that adhesive disc off you’d probably find the emitter sitting right where it belongs on the star.

That little white disc keeps the reflector from scraping the dielectric layer off the top of the copper trace running out to the connecting pads and causing a short. :wink:

Here’s the image you showed, aligned in Photoshop with the Text that is visible behind the insulation disc. This text reads “Thorfire”.

Just checked…

OOPS!! Silly me!! :open_mouth: