Got two NW BLF X6 SE's in today. Tape for both boxes was only on the bottom and wrapped to the side - no problem really. Both are 100% functional and appear to be quite bright. Tint/beam is typical for NW thrower type of lights (SMO reflectors) - very similar to C8 size high amp NW throwers I have, but with a wider (than a C8) not as intense beam of course.
Here's "My" tailcap measurements for both "stock" units, measured with a UNI-T UT50B DMM (from FT), 14 AWG silicone coated wires directly soldered into banana plugs, than with the bare ends soldered (to keep the strands together) for contact to the battery and flashlight tube end.
X6-SE #1: SONY VTC5 @4.21v - 2.82A
X6-SE #2: (same VTC5) - 2.84A
X6-SE #1: Pana BD @4.17v - 2.63A (unprotected)
X6-SE #2: (same BD) - 2.65A (unprotected)
X6-SE #1: LG HE2 @4.20v - 2.68A - 2.84A *
X6-SE #2: (same HE2) - 2.76A - 2.99A *
X6-SE #1: KP 3400 @4.16v - 2.15A - 2.27A * (protected cell)
X6-SE #2: (same KP) - 2.27A - 2.36A * (protected cell)
* Note: I realized the softer I pressed on the cell, the lower the amps got - harder: higher. So, I started recording both low and high readings. This is all normal stuff for this type of driver and battery configuration. The spring compresses as you press harder, so less resistance because the effective distance of the spring wire is reduced for the current flow.
I can't explain the exact cause of why some are getting much lower readings (below 2A with a "good" cell), but there are many possible reasons. Three possible causes I'm thinking:
- anything less in battery quality (low resistance), charge, or battery age/usage (cells with several charge cycles will be weaker)
- an improper DMM setup (cheaper DC amp components in the DMM, or improper direct heavy gauge leads, or using probes - will measure lower with this light)
- variations in units of the X6-SE's (maybe some have the new higher Vf CREE LED's, some still the old LED's, etc.)
Note that the unit #2 unit seems to be reading consistently higher, but not by much really. All within the margin of error. Because results vary with pressure of pushing down on the cell, there's a lot of slop in these #'s. Adding a wire to bypass the driver spring will of course solve the variation, and most likely result in higher amps than the highest #'s above.
Some guys were asking for recommendation of cells - The SONY VTC5, Efest 35A, Samsung 25R, and LG HE2 are all pretty much comparable in high performance in a very nice ~2500 mAh capacity. As you see above, the Panasonic BD (unprotected) did well, but not as good, but for the extra capacity of being 3200 mAh, they are also a very nice option. The 4.35v cells may also have advantages, but I'm not aware of any testing with them in this light, plus the odd charge level means you need a special charger. I would of course recommend Richard (RMM) at http://www.mtnelectronics.com/ for the batteries and chargers - great quality and prices. Also our friends at http://www.illumn.com/, Calvin posts here, can also offer great cells and chargers at very competitive prices, and both will gladly answer any questions you have. I've had frequent online conversations with them both. Sorry - US shops, Int'l shipping may be possible though.
This is a quality light, worth more than what we paid -- I'd suggest using only quality cells.