Yes did both springs.
That can also happen if the emitter dome has a dent near the side, or if the reflector is scratched. My ZL SC52 has a dark spot in its hotspot due to this type of thing, and my Convoy M2 has a pretty significant dark spot from where I accidentally gouged its reflector. Neither is the typical case, it just happens when a part has minor damage. Neither dark spot is dead-center though.
Lol yes you are right tail cap is with the tail cap removed and amps at emitter is with tail cap on and taken at the star.
Finally got my first shipment of lights in, Here are my first impressions.
The box is awesome! I had tape on the side and bottom but I’ll take a hair dryer to it so no biggie for me.
The quality of the light is stellar! Beautiful AR lens (albeit dirty when it arrived to me)
Low “Moon-mode” is a lot lower than I thought it would be. Which I like.
Overall, you couldn’t ask for a better $20 combo!
Small gripes:
I ordered 2 NW and 2 CW. The order that arrived should have been two U2-3C’s. Upon shining both of them at a solid white wall, you can definitely see a tint difference. I think they may have sent me the wrong one, which isn’t a big deal.
I saw a VERY distinct black dot a the center of the beam for the cool white. I think someone else was talking about this earlier. It’s small, but when you pan across a solid white wall, you can see the dark spot in the middle follow the beam. I looked at the led and noticed a few specks of dirt on it, so I cleaned the LED but the dark spot remains.
Up close it’s not noticeable, but anything over 20ft and you’ll see a 1inch black dot in the center :~
Overall, the good WAY overshadows the bad. I think we have the best $20 lights that money can buy!
Basically Dale is saying if you have the tailcap on, you can't take a tailcap reading, so he gave instructions for an amp reading at the LED. Dale is being politically correct - If he wasn't, he might say, ahhh, a "tailcap reading" is done by removing the tailcap, hhmmmm... WTH?? 
What I do with a light box is do a conventional tailcap reading (i.e. remove the tailcap), then check the lumens output with jumpering the battery to the body with a heavy wire, just like the tailcap reading. Then re-test lumens output with the tailcap on - this will tell me how much the loss is from the tailcap. After many lights tested this way (basically I do every light that comes thru, dozens...), I find that vast majority of loss's comes from the spring. Only on cheaper lights (cheap switch's) could I attribute loss's to the switch itself. Many times I get higher lumens output after copper wiring the spring then I did with a heavy jumper from the cell negative to the body. I attribute that to poor contact of the heavy gauge wire to the body - a fully threaded connection is much better than a single point contact on the threads or rim of the body.
Tom, I’ve had higher numbers on the lightbox with the tailcap ON than when using my 12Ga lead to jumper over. I think it’s because a tailcap with bypassed spring has less resistance than the longer heavy lead.
At any rate, taking emitter lumens tells exactly what’s going through the emitter with the light in working order, as you’d carry it. Technically speaking, to do a full comparison of a stock light vs a modded light this is really the only true way to tell the complete difference. With spring bypasses top and bottom being included in the emitter amperage reading, it tells a more complete picture of what kind of gains were achieved. Of course, the stock light has to be measured this way as well, which is why I used the clamp meter for an accurate reading at the emitter on the stock X6 when it came in recently.
Got my 2nd EE X6 NW. Tape again all around the box, but I saved it with hair dryer this time. Only a little darker mark where the tape was off.
THANKS TO IRONMAN. I think my bro’s will have a greaatttttt birthday in Dec. All he has is a crappy (& fake) Ultrafire WF-502b with XPG in it :bigsmile:
Waaaaaa…I haven’t even got one of mine in yet 
Just received mine today and it’s a beautiful little light, thanks Khrono and others for this group buy.
Same.
Ordered mine Nov 7. Tracking went live on Nov 20. As of Nov 25 the package was in Fuzhou EMS, China. I might get it in another 2 weeks or so. Unless it’s in one of these piles
That explains the always crushed white box.
Does this driver have low voltage protection?
Nvm, I just tested it and it doesn’t.
Got my 4PCS today( second wave order), were well packed, and had tape only to seal the box, like 5cm only, i managed it with hot air, no residue left
Out of the box, testing with Panasonic 18650 PF 4.20v, rested
1- 2.62 amp
2- 2.88
3. 2.75
4- 2.67 amp
Retested them 3 times each to obtain those average numbers
I used Benning DMM, with short and think custom made silver plated wires and plugs
With other words: GOOD!
Now….LD –1 driver, here we go! 
One of those i will left as it is ofc, its a BLF light!
Mine are still in China, “opening”
Never check tracking info expecting the usual 30 to 40 days from BG, if faster would be pleasantly surprised, if slower time to open a case.
That makes a lot of sense for the way my package from Fasttech looked.
to me its like measuring HP @ the wheels vs. the crank… taking all the losses into account…