Thats kind of the point, your buying from who knows where, eagle eyes today comes from one factory, tomorrow one at the other end of china, companies donāt have history or reputations and corporate headquarters, they donāt work the way we think of corporations in the first world
They deliberately obscure everything possible, for plausible denaibility, for governmental reasons, to obscure chain of custody (especially when supplying first world companies) and so on.
Since getting my NW X6 SE Iāve had chance to use it a few times now. On MAX it never gets warm when outside, not even close.
The step down is also vastly more noticeable than Iād have thought it would be too. Ok you might not notice the instance it steps down, but you do realise the spill is dimmer and you can no longer see as far.
On MAX the X6 will light up the trees on the far side of the park, once stepped down it doesnāt. Out walking this is quite a noticeable drop. The real bummer is then the UI, you canāt just bump it back up to MAX again without going through all the modes.
Generally Iām a huge fan of auto step downs to regulate heat (works brilliantly on my EagleTac). But is completely redundant on the X6.
My 2nd example is a CW one, I added wire to the springs and it did bump amp draw, although visually wasnāt such a big jump. Anyhow, this one sat on the shelf for a few weeks, when I picked it up to use it again it had turned into single mode somehow. Canāt see anything shorting or wrong it. Donāt know if it steps down or not as I didnāt run it long enough.
Anyhow I pulled the stock driver and used a blank 17mm board and have no converted this one to direct drive. Using a Samsung 25R it is significantly brighter than my stock NW one. It also heats up now. Obviously no lower output modes with this setup, but fine for my intended use.
Will check tonight. But it is a heck of a lot brighter, I did a ceiling bounce lux test, canāt recall exact numbers but from something like 440 lux stock to 620 lux direct drive.
Thanks i am very curious what it will be, we have seen so many different amp reading from different drivers, set ups and batterys on this light but never a DD one.
What do you think of the possibly of using a Quantum Tunneling Composite to make it in to a big twisty?
Well lets get honest here eagle eyes is making a light that is exactly like a convoy S2+.
and simon gets a red convoy s2+ in and is excited that he got a SAMPLE .... Minos has a nitecorn name and slaps it on an ennora? Ignorra ? firecorn ?? and says branding doesn't mean squat ..
Does anyone really think there are a bunch of companies in china with english names ?
If we had any sense we'd stop making BLF special edition lights ...instead we should have created a brand . 5 years later our lights would be nice enough to be putting serious pressure on the big boys ..Mr.Efin would be effin scared .
on a side note ..i hate this driver .. the spacing is pure unusable crap
Iāve been using mine lately. Itās a nice light (seems like itāll replace my C8 for regular use), but it seems to have only two modes ā low, high, high, and high with step-down to high.
The main thing Iād change about the host is to make it tail-stand betterā¦ itās wobbly with a big head and two narrow flat spots on the tail.
After I get some stock measurements, Iāll probably change the lens on my NW model (get rid of the AR coating to improve tint), replace the CW emitter with a de-domed XP-G2 for throw, and maybe replace the drivers in both. But Iāve been lazy and itās not a priority.
I have found the glass not to affect the tint much, in fact i would not know it was there if i had not read this thread and looked carefully at the glass
You got it wrong, its: almost moon, low power light high, average power light high, with step up toā¦wait did it step up? Maybe I should check to see if I pressed itā¦yep went back down to almost moon so it must have been in turbo, OK cycle it up againā¦